Engine cut out problem

[Dr B1G]

Hi everyone.
I wondered if you could help me, during my cumute from work through a busy town centre (traffic nose to tail) I'm going through the middle of all the traffic at slow speed and my bike cuts out when the throttle is closed (when coming to a halt). It restarts with no problem and off I go again, then it happens a short while later.

When the bike gets out of traffic and on to the bypass where I can open her up a little, the engine becomes more responsive. So is it just a case of a tune on the dyno or do I need to look deeper?

The engine idle speed when warm is around 1000rpm

Thanks
Andy

[VTRDark]

See http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 68#p288560

(:-})

[fabiostar]

if it was mine id turn the tickover up a bit. mine used to do it the odd time when it got hot in traffic but wound it up to 1200 and problem sorted.

[darkember]

Set the TPS (throttle position sensor) to 500 ohms & set the idle to 1100. I still get the odd cutout as I blip the throttle usually when the bike is cold

[Dr B1G]

Thanks very much for all of your advice.
I'm not too confident with adjusting the TPS yet, so I'll have to get someone more competent to adjust it for me. Again, thanks

[lloydie]

Set the TPS (throttle position sensor) to 500 ohms & set the idle to 1100. I still get the odd cutout as I blip the throttle usually when the bike is cold

Set the idle first then the tps as doing it the other way changes the tps setting .

[Hairy biker]

Mine used to suffer with this problem, TPS adjustment sorted it though

[darkember]

Set the TPS (throttle position sensor) to 500 ohms & set the idle to 1100. I still get the odd cutout as I blip the throttle usually when the bike is cold

Set the idle first then the tps as doing it the other way changes the tps setting .

Agreed but to do the tps efficiently the carbs will have to come off, then the idle may go off also a carb re balance would be good as well

[VTRDark]

Actually the syncing of the carbs is more important as I put in the other thread if anyone followed the link. This has a direct affect on the TPS which gets it's reading from the throttle position via the butterfly flap. When you sync the carbs it's moving the position of the butterfly flap. Also throttle cable adjustment may alter this slightly. Best thing to do is sync the carbs first in case they are way out, then loosen the carb inlet rubbers and pull the carbs to the side with the throttle cables still connected, then adjust the position of the TPS. Fiddly but it can be done. Otherwise sync the carbs and remove them totally and adjust the TPS while on your workbench or whatever.

(:-})

[lloydie]

yes all 3 helps , carb balance ,tps set to 430-500ohms , idle set to 1200 .
jobs a good one

[Jamoi]

This topic has prompted me to pay attention to my roughish idle & occasional cutting out. Cheers!

[Pete.L]

I don't understand???
Has something changed on the bike? I always managed to take a TPS reading whilst the sensor was still on the bike and the carbs and throttle cable fitted.
Worst case scenario, dependant on the year, you might have some torx head bolts to contend with.
A little bit fiddly but with a little care you can be done in about ten minutes

Pete.l

[Stratman]

I have the idle set at 800, have never adjusted the TPS and she has probably cut out twice in 13 years at a junction!

I think that good plugs, clean airfilter and balanced carbs are the way to go first.

[Dr B1G]

Just a quick update... I've up'd the idle speed to 1300 and its not cut out since, it nearly did once but it revived itself. I definitely need the carbs balancing and tuning but need to grow some confidence balls to tackle it.