Polishing the exhaust system

darkember · Post by **darkember** » Sat Oct 26, 2013 12:15 pm

I will be using a drill to do this & the parts held in a padded vice.

Please could somebody list me the wheels & different grades I will need, order of use & where I can get them from? Note: I am starting with very brown headers.

Thanks Dark

agentpineapple · Post by **agentpineapple** » Sat Oct 26, 2013 12:27 pm

I used a dremel with the sanding attachments, I also used sandpaper by hand, then a little autosol to finish.
different people use different methods. just be aware that you'll need to tidy the headers up once a year to keep them in tip top condition....

grumpyfrog · Post by **grumpyfrog** » Sat Oct 26, 2013 12:31 pm

on this subject, as I have it on my list of things to do, does anyone know where to get cheap dremel bits. bloody expensive out of the usual b&q places.

darkember · Post by **darkember** » Sat Oct 26, 2013 12:47 pm

agentpineapple wrote:I used a dremel with the sanding attachments, I also used sandpaper by hand, then a little autosol to finish.
different people use different methods. just be aware that you'll need to tidy the headers up once a year to keep them in tip top condition....

That is all fine but the dremel is fine for the intricate areas & the larger drill for the open areas. I still would like the grades needed & where to get them from.

lloydie · Post by **lloydie** » Sat Oct 26, 2013 1:01 pm

grumpyfrog wrote:on this subject, as I have it on my list of things to do, does anyone know where to get cheap dremel bits. bloody expensive out of the usual b&q places.

Lidil £4.99 on offer now .

lloydie · Post by **lloydie** » Sat Oct 26, 2013 1:04 pm

After you've removed the rust start off with 80 grit wet&dry then 120-240- 600-1200 then polish to mirror finish . It took me 2 hours for the rear down pipe alone :-(
Good luck

Nickcv · Post by **Nickcv** » Sat Oct 26, 2013 1:34 pm

When I used to work in injection moulding we used to polish up tool faces to a mirror finishing using wet and dry soaked in diesel. I imagine you could do the same on your down pipes.

darkember · Post by **darkember** » Sat Oct 26, 2013 2:40 pm

Another question.

I will be splitting the nuts off the headers especially on the front as I don't want to risk the studs breaking. Could someone tell me where I can pickup some SS replacements, I believe they are 7mm nuts. David Silver do them but not in SS.

MacV2 · Post by **MacV2** » Sat Oct 26, 2013 4:33 pm

darkember wrote:Another question.

I will be splitting the nuts off the headers especially on the front as I don't want to risk the studs breaking. Could someone tell me where I can pickup some SS replacements, I believe they are 7mm nuts. David Silver do them but not in SS.

Try this guy...

I know these are bolts in the link but just search for 7mm SS nuts.

lloydie · Post by **lloydie** » Sat Oct 26, 2013 4:37 pm

This took 2 hours :-(
But looks good

Duffy1964 · Post by **Duffy1964** » Sat Oct 26, 2013 6:45 pm

I can send you mine Lloydie

That looks great

lloydie · Post by **lloydie** » Sat Oct 26, 2013 6:51 pm

No no no that one for the moriwaki exhaust so it got a little extra

.
I still have the standard/modded headers to do and a set of viper cans :-( and maybe a frame and swing arm

Jamoi · Post by **Jamoi** » Sat Oct 26, 2013 6:58 pm

Hey lloydie! Thats looks superb, are they your Moriwaki's? I was thinking how to go about polishing Ti headers, just the ssme technique as the standard headers?

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lloydie · Post by **lloydie** » Sat Oct 26, 2013 7:12 pm

Thanks guys

That's a standard rear down pipe .
The moriwaki system utilises the standard pipe (stainless steel ) but you need to mod it a little for better gas flow by removing the internal weld on the flange !!! .
Shown in pic

Jamoi · Post by **Jamoi** » Sat Oct 26, 2013 7:25 pm

Ahh gotcha, they look brand new.

Does your missus know you have been uploading photos of yourself fingering widened flanges on t'internet?

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