Tapered roller headrace fitting query

[Moocher]

I am fitting new all balls taper bearings in the headrace. Has anyone any tips on how tight the stem nut should be?
As it's not the type I can put a torque wrench on I have a couple of "C" spanners to hand.

[MacV2]

I am fitting new all balls taper bearings in the headrace. Has anyone any tips on how tight the stem nut should be?
As it's not the type I can put a torque wrench on I have a couple of "C" spanners to hand.

Tighten by feel.

When you have them in get the front wheel off the ground & try lock to lock, should be nice & smooth of course, you'll soon see/feel if too tight.

You will need to re-adjust after a 100 miles or so as they settle in a bit.

[Stratman]

Don't overtighten them though as when you torque down the stem nut they will tighten a bit more anyway.

[darkember]

Use the following thread.

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=15681

[sirch345]

You will need to re-adjust after a 100 miles or so as they settle in a bit.

It took a total of three final adjustments for mine, which apparently is quite normal.

To make the final adjustments you can raise the standard handle bars up the fork stanchions and re-tighten them there to give enough room to raise the top yoke giving access to the two castellated nuts. There's is no need to remove the bars and top yoke completely as you did for fitting the new bearings. You can then tap the castellated nuts so they both turn around together a small amount to tighten up the steering.

Note: on the final adjustments you will only need to turn the castellated nuts a very small amount. IIRC my last adjustment I only moved them approx. 3mm.

Chris.

[darkember]

You will need to re-adjust after a 100 miles or so as they settle in a bit.

It took a total of three final adjustments for mine, which apparently is quite normal.

To make the final adjustments you can raise the standard handle bars up the fork stanchions and re-tighten them there to give enough room to raise the top yoke giving access to the two castellated nuts. There's is no need to remove the bars and top yoke completely as you did for fitting the new bearings. You can then tap the castellated nuts so they both turn around together a small amount to tighten up the steering.

Note: on the final adjustments you will only need to turn the castellated nuts a very small amount. IIRC my last adjustment I only moved them approx. 3mm.

Chris.

That's odd. I did mine last year well before the Welsh trip & never had to tighten them & I have frequently check the fall away which is always silky smooth.

[AMCQ46]

as long as there is no clunk when braking than you are still OK.

I think the main problem comes if the are not 100% seated, then they will settle slightly. but if you have them heated / cold and you are not shy with the hammer [you will hear the sound change when the hammer strikes then you know they are solid to the face] then there shouldn't be much change after that.

[Moocher]

Many thanks to all for the link and other words of wisdom.
Dave