900rr swinger brace

Jscobey · Post by **Jscobey** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 5:25 pm

i got all the parts to do the brace mod. i ordered a 95 900rr "box" style swinger, a 95 900rr caliper bracket, and a vtr swinger so i can have minimal downtime. 1st if akk is there anything else i need or should be aware of for the mod? ive pretty well researched it so i think im pretty well prepared. is there any bearings or anything ill need though? i havnt heard anyone mention that in any threads.

im also wondering if it would be beneficial to have small pieces of Alum welded about halfway between the front and rear of the brace as added support and rigidity.

AMCQ46 · Post by **AMCQ46** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 6:11 pm

you would only need bearings if you plan to powder coat and hence are removing the old ones. or if the doner part looks to have contamination in the bearing.

When I get round to doing mine I intend to plate both sides to fill in from the brace bar down to the swingarm to add rigidity and also to make it look different

8541Hawk · Post by **8541Hawk** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 7:21 pm

Jscobey wrote:i got all the parts to do the brace mod. i ordered a 95 900rr "box" style swinger, a 95 900rr caliper bracket, and a vtr swinger so i can have minimal downtime. 1st if akk is there anything else i need or should be aware of for the mod? ive pretty well researched it so i think im pretty well prepared. is there any bearings or anything ill need though? i havnt heard anyone mention that in any threads.

im also wondering if it would be beneficial to have small pieces of Alum welded about halfway between the front and rear of the brace as added support and rigidity.

To answer your first question, if you are just installing the brace you don't have to replace the bearings.
Though with a replacement swingarm, you have no idea what condition the bearings it came with are in.

So you might want to just install new ones as it is a bit of work to put it all together only to find out one of the three bearings is bad

Or if you plan to powder coat the swinger you will need bearing also.

Adding any extra bits to the brace would just be for aesthetics as you are not making enough power to need anymore rigidity than a std 900RR brace will give you .

kenmoore · Post by **kenmoore** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 7:32 pm

Like hawk says, do the bearings while everything is apart!

The last thing you want is to have to pull it all apart, and also bear in mind that the extra stiffness will more than likely apply extra load to the bearings.

I could be wrong on that point, however it makes sense to do them whilst everything is apart.

Do it once and good luck with this very worthy mod. :beer:

VTRDark · Post by **VTRDark** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 7:57 pm

When I get round to doing mine I intend to plate both sides to fill in from the brace bar down to the swingarm to add rigidity and also to make it look different

I'm waiting for you to do yours so I can copy it

(:-})

Jscobey · Post by **Jscobey** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 9:47 pm

does all balls make the swinger bearings?

kenmoore · Post by **kenmoore** » Tue Mar 11, 2014 8:31 am

I went to the local bearing supplier with the old ones.

Total cost of swinger and linkage bearings plus seals was approx $150 Aust!

Money well spent I thought.

E.Marquez · Post by **E.Marquez** » Tue Mar 11, 2014 1:12 pm

Bearings if good can be left in.. Even if powder coating

They will be degreased then prebaked, degreased again and powdercoated.

Seals are best replaced and make sure the shop coating seals the bearing cavity well if they are media blasting.

If the bearings are old, dry even close to replace time... Save the hassle and just replace them... If you remove before coating make sure to tell the coater not to coat the inner surface...

You may want to consider adding spool mounts so you can use a track stand

Jscobey · Post by **Jscobey** » Tue Mar 11, 2014 6:14 pm

yea im thinking about the best way to do it. if seen a couple different methods of getting the spools on the swnger. im thinking im gonna steal your threaded insert in a block of Alum method. seems nice and sturdy

8541Hawk · Post by **8541Hawk** » Tue Mar 11, 2014 6:21 pm

For me I have always just used the riv-nut method.

Quick and easy as you only need to drill 2 holes and they have never caused any issues.

Jscobey · Post by **Jscobey** » Tue Mar 11, 2014 6:24 pm

8541Hawk wrote:For me I have always just used the riv-nut method.

Quick and easy as you only need to drill 2 holes and they have never caused any issues.

riv-nut?

8541Hawk · Post by **8541Hawk** » Tue Mar 11, 2014 6:34 pm

https://www.google.com/search?q=rivnut& ... &source=hp

Jscobey · Post by **Jscobey** » Tue Mar 11, 2014 8:38 pm

8541, I googled it myself ha, I just don't understand how that translates to swingarm spools

Jamoi · Post by **Jamoi** » Tue Mar 11, 2014 8:42 pm

Put one here

E.Marquez · Post by **E.Marquez** » Tue Mar 11, 2014 9:47 pm

The drill a hole in a boxed stress member, we are expending time, energy and money to stiffen with a add on brace seems counter intuitive.

Seeing as the build up process already involves welding, fabricating and finish work,, seems to make a lot more sense to add on to the swing arm a simple aluminium block for a spool mount.

Folks have been drilling holes in swing arms to mount stuff for a long time,, guess it works well enough to not cause one to fail..... just see no reason to do it that way when other, better options are available.

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