CCT I think

[curly]

Hi all,

I've never had a cct problem before but i think one's going now.
I've done nearly 9,000 miles since i got my storm and when I was riding it last week I heard a fairly loud rattling noise.
I rode it again a few days later and heard the same sound.
I went to my local honda dealer to price up replacing both tensioners as the bike has done nearly 15,000 miles. They said the tensioners would be about 60 quid each and altogether with labour charges I'm looking at about £200.
This seems pretty dear to me, or is this the going rate?

Cheers,
Curly.

[curly]

Hi,

Another question, are these any good?

http://www.debben.co.uk/acatalog/Billet ... ioners.pdf

Curly

[Martin]

I'm about to replace my THIRD tensioner since I owned this bike (2000 model 16k miles) and every time it's been the front one. Just check before you fork out to replace both, as most people who've had one fail it's been just the front one. I've not tried the APE tensioners, but I'm sure someone will reply who has some info.

[RQ]

Curly, sounds a bit suspect to be honest, if it was the tensioner, you wouldn't have ridden it the second time at all. The noise is such a loud whipping noise inside the engine that you would have been scared to run it. Unless the tensioner is gone, but hasn't retracted yet, but that's odd too.....

[Pete.L]

Sorry RQ
I disagree
The tensioners have been know to stick before now and all you hear is like a light fluttering noise as you slow down (approx between 3 1/2 to 2000rpm). Some times it's more pronounced when either hot or cold other times it's there all the time. If the tensioner is backing off and the spring is still in tacked it will take the slack up the next time the strain on the chain is released untill it backs off again.

Pete.l

[Max]

I have ape tensioners on mine and they seem ok, but i have only done about 3000 miles on them. I have just had the engine apart for a look and they dont seem to require retensioning yet and there appears to be no damage to the guides or chains at the tension I have them set.

[curly]

Hi,
In my original question I asked if £200 was expensive for two new cct's fitted.
I've found out you can buy the tensioners for £26 from David Silver spares, my local Honda dealer said they would cost me £60 each!
Having read my Haynes manual it says replacing cct's is suitable for a beginner with little experience.
Anybody done their own? Is it fairly straightforward or not?

Cheers,

Curly.

[Pete.L]

Curly
Don't do it from the Haynes manual
Whilst everthing it says about the valve/cam timing is correct. What it doesn't tell you is if you remove your tensioner without first setting the timing marks up the valve springs are strong enough to cause the cams to turn and if this should happen without any tension on the timing chain it will most likley jump a few teath and can cause a hell of a lot of damage.
Use the book to set the timing marks up for the front one first, then remove/replace the front tensioner. Turn the engine over by hand and recheck the timing marks and then move on to the back one and set the timing marks up for the rear before doing that one. And again turn the engine over by hand after you have finished and recheck the timing marks.
It's not very difficult (hell even I can do it ) but it's worth being a bit anal about

Pete.l
P.S anyone who says you can just pull them out at the side of the road is talking baldrocks and the few who have managed to just whip one out (me included) and stick another one in has just been lucky

[curly]

Thanks Pete,
I'll ask around a few mates to see if they can help me, or try a couple of other bike shops and check their prices.
Not in too much of a rush this weather.

Cheers,
Curly.

[RQ]

Oh I agree Pete, if the spring is still there, then you won't hear much, but if the spring is gone, and the plunger retracts all the way, then you'll know all about it!!
WRT the roadside changeover, well, I chanced it and did two fronts that way. I won't say that I whipped them out, I more "withdrew very carefully" (aye up Tony, take it easy, I'm talking about the CCT)

I got away with it, but did the rear one more carefully......

As for the Haynes manual, well, I found it came into it's own, and I found it most useful when I used it to prop up the petrol tank at the front while rooting around at the air box...............

[tony.wilde1]

200 ay?hmm..i took 5 hours doing mine..i installed self modified semi auto tensioners 4000miles ago and everthings ok..cost of modification? 20p!!!2 bolts 2 nuts and a bit of grinding...sorted..but i did use brand new cct's to modify..they indeed cost 26+vat from dave silver.also new gaskets too.i repeat whats been said..take your time to set the valve timing first to tdc or..click click baldrocks...good luck.

[bluesman]

Well, I was planning to do some work with front CCT (changed rear one with no issues), but now I am a bit scared and therefore let me ask something. I do not want to remove head covers, so: if before withdrawing CCT you turn engine cranckshaft into postion, where (for example) FT mark in timing inspection window align with static mark, it actually means that for front cylinder lobes of camshaft facing opposite or towards each other, and then "no lift" side of camshaft is against valves. It means then that it will not turn itself under pressure of springs - am I correct? I mean - if I carefully withdraw tensioner in that position - should be OK, shouldn't it?
Help!

[tony.wilde1]

first of all if you havent already go tit get the genuine honda manual from here>>

ftp://bullet.uchicago.edu/pub/OUTgoing/shopManual/

theres all the pics and all the timing info in there...you really should take off the cam covers...the front being perticularly hard to get off ..but if you take shortcuts...clonk!!!it took me so long to do but its worth the extra hours to check it all lines up ok..sorry mate i cant recommend saving time and possibly wrecking the motor..hope this helps.

[Pete.L]

Bluesman said

FT mark in timing inspection window align with static mark, it actually means that for front cylinder lobes of camshaft facing opposite or towards each other, and then "no lift" side of camshaft is against valves. It means then that it will not turn itself under pressure of springs - am I correct?

You are correct.....not everyone realises this so if they are not sure I would rather tell people so they don't get in a mess

RQ said

well, I chanced it and did two fronts that way.

He He
Me too
It's great when it works but it scared the crap outa me when one let go as i walked back toward the bike with the replacement tensioner in my grubby little mit

Pete.l