Wheel preparation for powder coating?

[KermitLeFrog]

What needs to be done?

Obviously the tyres come off and Ive taken the disks off as well But, what worries me is the mating surfaces for the disks. I don't want them coated.

Also, what about the seals and bearings. These are going to be replaced so do I leave the old ones in place or take them out (and then worry about the mating surfaces for the seals and bearings.

Some tips would be much appreciated,

TIA
Ian

Ps. The disk mounting screws (M6 x 17) are rusty. OK to replace them with M6 x 15 SS allen screws?

[Wicky]

Strip it to a completely bare wheel - and whoever is doing powdercoating should know what they're doing by prepping and masking off bearing and disk facing surfaces.

[tony.mon]

Firstly the disc bolts (machine screws) need to be that length I would say. Just buy longer and cut down.

Re prep, you have a few choices. You can get it all coated and then cut back in areas where you don't want it, like the disc mounting faces and bearing surfaces.
But it's easier to mask off the surfaces- they'll be grit blasting, but a couple of layers of gaffer tape will do. I'd suggest putting old bolts into the threads- they simply unscrew after coating, leaving a clean thread.

I use a length of studding through the spindle with plates both ends, and nuts holding them on. It's enough to prevent coating getting in, but you will always have some grit inside, and that's why you cannot get away with leaving bearings in situ, fresh ones are needed after coating. the heat of the process can also damage seals if your bearings have neoprene seals.

One more tip, don't get the inner lip of the rim coated- that's where the tyre beads sit, and the slippery coating can allow the tyre to spin, throwing it out of balance or allowing air leaks.

Lastly, if getting black pc, if it chips- it's quite brittle, I chipped one dropping a 10mm spanner on it- you can touch in with Hammerite; it's not noticeable. Other colours are more problematic.

[Stephan]

Disc mounting bolt should be oem new ones, they are designed for defined tightening torque and there is probably some deformation counted in. But each to his own, not many people do this and just reuse them, or replace with something else ...

[KermitLeFrog]

Disc mounting bolt should be oem new ones, they are designed for defined tightening torque and there is probably some deformation counted in. But each to his own, not many people do this and just reuse them, or replace with something else ...

Yup, new oem disc mounting bolts are the way to go.

WRT the other posters, thanks for the tips (and yes, I'm specifying gloss black). I'll give the people a ring tomorrow and ask them exactly what prep they need. They do loads of bike wheels and have a very good reputation so I'll go on their recommendation. Should really have done that in the first place.

New bearings and seals as a matter of course.

[sirch345]

One more tip, don't get the inner lip of the rim coated- that's where the tyre beads sit, and the slippery coating can allow the tyre to spin, throwing it out of balance or allowing air leaks.

That's a good point Tony. I must admit most wheels I've seen powder coated they usually do the whole wheel, including the tyre bead area. It'll be interesting to hear what the company doing KermitLeFrog's wheels do

Chris.

[bazzashadow]

I would take the bearings out as the heat will make the grease run, bolts in the threads to stop the paint getting in and use a sharp Stanley/razor blade to scrape the paint off the face where the brakes bolt on.
I think it`s worth it but I carefully ground all the casting lugs and writing off my wheel so everything was dead smooth

[kev64]

All of the above !!
Had mine powdered last year, just a bare wheel !
My Powder coaters are a bit brutal, it has to be said

[AMCQ46]

had mine powder coated gloss black, and I think the guy put in on too thick, as you just have to look at it and it will chip a chunk off..... there is now an equal qty of Hammerite smooth on there as powder coat!.

I was a bit surprised as I expected it to have a better resilience to normal life than Paint, but in this case it is worse.

[StuartWags]

whats the going rate for powder......? i need to get some done

[StormyRob]

I paid 40 quid for both wheels. Just had to remove bearings.

[bazzashadow]

had mine powder coated gloss black, and I think the guy put in on too thick, as you just have to look at it and it will chip a chunk off..... there is now an equal qty of Hammerite smooth on there as powder coat!.

I was a bit surprised as I expected it to have a better resilience to normal life than Paint, but in this case it is worse.

I have heard this before
mine are painted and have lasted three tyre changes and about 5 years but I do polish and wax them

[StuartWags]

had mine powder coated gloss black, and I think the guy put in on too thick, as you just have to look at it and it will chip a chunk off..... there is now an equal qty of Hammerite smooth on there as powder coat!.

I was a bit surprised as I expected it to have a better resilience to normal life than Paint, but in this case it is worse.

I have heard this before
mine are painted and have lasted three tyre changes and about 5 years but I do polish and wax them

I had an FZR that had such and uneven thickness .... it had a huge amount of lead to get it balcanced

[KermitLeFrog]

Going back to an earlier post. I had a chat with my PC people. They want the wheel completely bare and they will plug any screw holes and mask any bearing or mating surfaces.

I asked about the tyre bead seating area and they powder coat the inside of the wheel as well. Contrary to what Mac suggests I don't see this as a problem. The only problem I've seen with tubeless wheels is when this area get corroded and the tyre leaks. A nice smooth (even gloss) finish will give the tyre bead plenty of grip.

I HAVE had problems with tyres spinning on a wheel but that's with tubed tyres on offroad bikes running at 10psi or lower. We used to only use one rim lock (for those fabled 2 minute tyre changes). I used to take a cold chisel and burr the bead seat. Even that didn't always work so I finally went with Bib Mousse. No flats but they never felt the same as an air tubed tyre.

[MacV2]

Going back to an earlier post. I had a chat with my PC people. They want the wheel completely bare and they will plug any screw holes and mask any bearing or mating surfaces.

I asked about the tyre bead seating area and they powder coat the inside of the wheel as well. Contrary to what Mac suggests I don't see this as a problem. The only problem I've seen with tubeless wheels is when this area get corroded and the tyre leaks. A nice smooth (even gloss) finish will give the tyre bead plenty of grip.

I HAVE had problems with tyres spinning on a wheel but that's with tubed tyres on offroad bikes running at 10psi or lower. We used to only use one rim lock (for those fabled 2 minute tyre changes). I used to take a cold chisel and burr the bead seat. Even that didn't always work so I finally went with Bib Mousse. No flats but they never felt the same as an air tubed tyre.

I fear you have mistaken me for someone else...