CCT renewal

darrenbell · Post by **darrenbell** » Wed Mar 02, 2005 9:17 pm

Having started hearing a rattle on the overun i decided it was new CCT time.
Having removed the tank and the tensioner i have a question - should you be able to push the piston in on the tensioner by hand as i can't with the one i've removed and the new one is the same - any of you chaps any ideas? ( the tensioner winds in and out fine with a screwdriver)
P.s i am renewing both the tensioners for peace of mind

Pete.L · Post by **Pete.L** » Thu Mar 03, 2005 12:48 pm

Hi Darren,

Welcome onboard

The tensioner shouldn't be springy infact it will will be as hard as hell to move it by hand.
When you install it just make sure it is in the fully wound out position untill you get it attached to the engine block and then release the little locking tool which comes with it. It will sort itself out then and you can move straight onto the next one.
Have fun

Pete.l

darrenbell · Post by **darrenbell** » Thu Mar 03, 2005 1:29 pm

thanks mate - is there anything i really need to do or can i just wip em out and in?

Pete.L · Post by **Pete.L** » Thu Mar 03, 2005 2:47 pm

can i just wip em out and in?

Yikes

Not a good idea I'm afraid. Some people have got away with doing it that way but the valve springs are so strong on this bike if you remove the tensioner when the cams are in the wrong position they will spin around on their own and jump a few teath on the timing chain.
End result engine goes bang.
You need to align the timing marks on the flywheel with the cam sprocket of the tensioner you wish to change first. This will keep you safe from damage. Either have a look in the Haynes manual or use the search function on here to look for the online manual.
If you can't find either give me a shout back and I'll dig a copy out for you
Pete.l

Pete.L · Post by **Pete.L** » Thu Mar 03, 2005 3:24 pm

JUST FOUND THIS
HOPE YOUVE GOT BROADBAND

ftp://bullet.uchicago.edu/pub/OUTgoing/shopManual/

Pete.l

darrenbell · Post by **darrenbell** » Thu Mar 03, 2005 3:30 pm

looks like i'm one of the lucky ones then!!!

.
I've been following the haynes manual which say's nowt about setting the timing marks up.
But on the plus side i did zip the engine round a few turns by hand when i'd finished to make sure all was well and i've run it for an hour with no problems so i guess i've got away with it - thank god.
After that i think that page is going to be ripped out of the manual.
Lucky i found this site last night!
Cheers
Again Pete!
p.s - i gues if it's all up and running alls well???

Pete.L · Post by **Pete.L** » Thu Mar 03, 2005 3:35 pm

Nice One

If it turned over by hand first you were always on a winner.
Now go out and give it some stick

Pete.l

darrenbell · Post by **darrenbell** » Thu Mar 03, 2005 3:59 pm

God i'll freeze to death if i do that - plus i've got a puncture on the back which is a massive pain in the butt.
Thanks for the pointers though Pete - much appreciated!

Cheers
Darren

markg · Post by **markg** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 7:13 pm

Gawd,i'm bloody shi**ing meself after reading all these threads on CCT's and broken springs and things

I've had my 'Storm for just over 2 years now and noticed a tapping noise at tickover soon after I bought it but decided not to worry.Two years on and the same noise is there at tickover,if I rise the revs to about 1300/1400 rpm the noise goes away.Performance of the bike is fine and it doesn't make any strange noises on the overrun as described on some of the threads on here.I've done 12,000 miles one the bike since I got it and the milage is about 23,000 now.
Should I keep panicking?is it worth just replaceing the CCT or should I consider one of the mods listed on some threads.
Help,I think i'm actually gonna lose sleep tonight!

Pete.L · Post by **Pete.L** » Tue Mar 22, 2005 8:02 pm

Help,I think i'm actually gonna lose sleep tonight!

Snigger

If it's only at tick over and it's been doing it for the last 11k it most likley isn't the tensioner( Pete touches wood and crosses his fingers).
It's normally at it's most obvious when slowing down using the engine between 3 1/2 and 2 k rpm. The noise increases between this rev band and ten drops of as it goes below it . Mind you a few have gone without any warning

.
Have a mechanic listen to it on the next service if you arn't sure.
Pete.l

markg · Post by **markg** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 4:35 pm

Might sleep a bit easier now,like you say its been doing it so long that if it was a CCT it should have gone by now.I mentioned it to a mechanic at the dealers once and he said that the carbs on a VTR can be a bit noisy,anyone else heard this one?
As for the servicing,i've always done it myself,might still change both CCT's for peace of mind though as it looks fairly straightforward,theres a lot of places to go this year and I don't fancy being stranded miles from home

cupasoop · Post by **cupasoop** » Wed Mar 23, 2005 11:40 pm

markg wrote:I mentioned it to a mechanic at the dealers once and he said that the carbs on a VTR can be a bit noisy,anyone else heard this one?

He means that if the carbs go out of ballance they cause the engine to sound noisy, The carbs themselves dont get noisy.

theweeeman · Post by **theweeeman** » Thu Mar 31, 2005 11:20 am

Ok, im gonna do my rear one, can anyone tell me how to line up the timing marks? i aint got a clue!

Pete.L · Post by **Pete.L** » Fri Apr 01, 2005 8:54 am

Hi Weeman.
The timing marks are on the engine fly wheel so you need to remove the ally inspection nut cover on the lefthand engine casing(as you sit on the bike). There are two marks, one labelled FT and one labelled RT.
You will find it easier if you can also remove the larger ally inspection nut cover so you can get a spanner on the end of the crank case bolt to turn the engine over(IF it won't come off you can put the bike in sixth gear and turn the engine over by rotating the back wheel,fowards rotation only). Remove the spark plugs so you don't have to fight the engine compression.
Remove the rear rocker box cover so you can see the cam chain sprockets. On them they are labelled RI and RE and some others. Rotate the engine untill the RT mark on the flywheel aligns with the RI & RE marks on the cam chain sprockets and the RI & RE marks are level with the top edge of the cyclider block.
You should now be safe to remove the tensioner and install the new one.
After installation rotate the engine and make sure all the timing marks lign up again and do it slowly just in case anything has moved ,don't force anything, if it has jumped out of align you don't want to bash a valve against the cylinder head

Provided everything rotates your sorted

Slap it all back together and off you go

Pete.l
P.S I've written this from memory(Which is pretty shoddy at the best of times) So if anyone notices I've forgotten anything please but in

Post by **sirch345** » Fri Apr 01, 2005 9:40 am

The only thing you haven't mentioned that I can think of (which is obvious if you've done it before) is you need to remove the fuel tank (best done with tank nearly empty) make a note of each pipe location so they all go back in their right places, you then need to remove the air filter and housing, take the top part off and remove air filter then remove bottom half of air filter housing. Cover air intakes on carbs with clean rags, as you don't want anything dropping in there. Also when refitting screws holding bottom half of air filter housing if I remember right use some thread lock, you will be able to tell if you look at the screw threads when removing if its been used, there will be a colour substance on the threads.

I don't think i'm the only one to say this, I personally would not recommend anybody carrying out this task if you have very little or no experience of mechanical work, its not that straight forward to do. If you get it wrong it will cost you dearly.
However if you are going to attempt to do it, perhaps you know someone who could check your work before you re-start your engine.
cheers Chris.