MacV2 wrote: ↑Sun May 26, 2019 9:30 pm
You confused me Matt...I'm thinking whos this Jackson bloke ...
Yes Ade's MCCts...Personaly I thought they were a pain to fit with the lock nut against the dome & a Nylock against the body... As the Nylock took some effort to turn it was turning the bolt, despite holding the dome as the bloody lock nut was comeing loose...
If I ever have to fit another set I think I'll junk the dome & just use a plain nut & lock up to that...
Needs a roll pin in it...dont have that issue with Bazza MCCT's...
I agree, the acorn / jam nut is a pain, as the two "hex's" do not line up so you can only get a tool on one or the other hex.
If you want:
The adjuster nut (acorn and jam nut for it) is just for adjustment, meaning it needs to simply be retained against vibration.. your not putting but a few inch lbs of tq on it. You could easily remove the acorn nut, the acorn jam nut, put either one you like back on with a drop of high strength thread lock and let it cure.. After that the nut will never be an issue again.
Roll pins retention has its issues as well...on another bike I do a lot of work with, the Suzuki DRZ400, the first version of MCCT had the nut retained by a roll pin, but it was common for the roll pin to vibrate out after some time, leaving you......nutless....LOL
And since most folks are not really set up or proficient in drilling a new nut for another roll pin...kind of leaves you in a jam.
The adjuster nut coming off, being misaligned, is all just an annoyance. And nothing to do with the adjuster and its jam nut coming loose.
Im not throwing any stones, just saying, if tightened up properly, it can't really just come loose. The adjuster threaded into the body and the jam nut tightened down against the body creates a physical lock that vibration alone is not going to loosen.
It sucks it came loose, sh1t happens...to even the best mechanic. Id be a liar if I said I've never made a mistake...it happens. Fix it and move on.
