VTR1000.ORG

Donut 77 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 02, 2023 11:24 pm

[/quote]
Unfortunately you need that inspection cap off and the casing put back on to retime it correctly. The marks on the rotor align with marks in the cover.
[/quote]

Thanks Tony, I hadn't even considered timing yet. This is going to be a steep learning curve. I'm guessing that as there is no distributor, the timing is set in there? I will carefully remove the inspection cap. I hope I haven't altered the timing by removing the casing and putting it back. Another dumb question, but is there a separate coil for each head? I've only seen one, but it only goes to the rear cylinder.
[/quote]
I was talking about cam timing rather than ignition timing.
The ignition timing is set and doesn't need adjustment, the trigger and pickup is in the RH side clutch case.
The cam timing refers to the relationship between the crank and each set of cams. Effectively, this engine is two big singles on a common crank as far as cam timing and carbs are concerned.
Yes, there is a separate coil for each head. Follow the leads back to locate them.

tony.mon wrote: ↑Thu Mar 02, 2023 8:07 am If you remove the larger of the two inspection ports on the lh side of the engine you can use a 19mm socket to rotate the engine to make sure it isn't seized.
Be careful, as that inspection cover is made of very soft alloy. It rounds out easily.

Managed to undo it without any rounding or swearing

Donut 77 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 03, 2023 5:11 pm

tony.mon wrote: ↑Thu Mar 02, 2023 8:07 am If you remove the larger of the two inspection ports on the lh side of the engine you can use a 19mm socket to rotate the engine to make sure it isn't seized.
Be careful, as that inspection cover is made of very soft alloy. It rounds out easily.

Managed to undo it without any rounding or swearing

That was a bit of luck

Chris.

Whether you're thinking of fitting manual CCT's or not, this guide will show you how to set-up the valve timing correctly, you must do this first before removing the fitted CCT's. : viewtopic.php?f=31&t=28583

Do not follow the guide in the Haynes manual as it's wrong,

Chris.

sirch345 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 03, 2023 8:50 pm Whether you're thinking of fitting manual CCT's or not, this guide will show you how to set-up the valve timing correctly, you must do this first before removing the fitted CCT's. : viewtopic.php?f=31&t=28583

Do not follow the guide in the Haynes manual as it's wrong,

Chris.

Thanks Chris, I will have a good look at this. I am working up to confidence and general skill level, as well as overall knowledge of the bike before tackling the CCT’s. I read a good thread last night about inserting a rod into the original auto ones as a failsafe against the spring breaking? I might do this first. What do you think?

tony.mon wrote: ↑Fri Mar 03, 2023 2:59 pm

Donut 77 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 02, 2023 11:24 pm

Unfortunately you need that inspection cap off and the casing put back on to retime it correctly. The marks on the rotor align with marks in the cover.
[/quote]

Thanks Tony, I hadn't even considered timing yet. This is going to be a steep learning curve. I'm guessing that as there is no distributor, the timing is set in there? I will carefully remove the inspection cap. I hope I haven't altered the timing by removing the casing and putting it back. Another dumb question, but is there a separate coil for each head? I've only seen one, but it only goes to the rear cylinder.
[/quote]
I was talking about cam timing rather than ignition timing.
The ignition timing is set and doesn't need adjustment, the trigger and pickup is in the RH side clutch case.
The cam timing refers to the relationship between the crank and each set of cams. Effectively, this engine is two big singles on a common crank as far as cam timing and carbs are concerned.
Yes, there is a separate coil for each head. Follow the leads back to locate them.
[/quote]

Aha! Yes, that makes sense..

Donut 77 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 03, 2023 11:10 pm

sirch345 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 03, 2023 8:50 pm Whether you're thinking of fitting manual CCT's or not, this guide will show you how to set-up the valve timing correctly, you must do this first before removing the fitted CCT's. : viewtopic.php?f=31&t=28583

Do not follow the guide in the Haynes manual as it's wrong,

Chris.

Thanks Chris, I will have a good look at this. I am working up to confidence and general skill level, as well as overall knowledge of the bike before tackling the CCT’s. I read a good thread last night about inserting a rod into the original auto ones as a failsafe against the spring breaking? I might do this first. What do you think?

That sounds like you are referring to the "Stopper Mod"

My opinion is that the front CCT spring will most like be on it's way out, may be even rusty. A CCT failure happens when the spring inside of the CCT body breaks. The way the CCT's sit in the engine means the rear one has the spring sitting in oil, the front CCT doesn't have that luxury.

A sensible man by building up your confidence and skill levels before jumping straight into CCT removal, I just wanted to make you are aware of how the valve timing needs to be set first before removing either CCT.

Chris.

Donut 77 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 03, 2023 11:10 pm

sirch345 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 03, 2023 8:50 pm Whether you're thinking of fitting manual CCT's or not, this guide will show you how to set-up the valve timing correctly, you must do this first before removing the fitted CCT's. : viewtopic.php?f=31&t=28583

Do not follow the guide in the Haynes manual as it's wrong,

Chris.

Thanks Chris, I will have a good look at this. I am working up to confidence and general skill level, as well as overall knowledge of the bike before tackling the CCT’s. I read a good thread last night about inserting a rod into the original auto ones as a failsafe against the spring breaking? I might do this first. What do you think?

the how to guide on the site here is top notch. just read it, read it again and take your time and work through it, if you get stuck plenty of boys on here are willing to help out

also stupid stuff like taking pictures with your phone, they are simple big tractors but if you havnt been under one before they have a a fair few hoses and such like so mark them and take a few piccies..

I’m pretty sure I will do the CCT’s while it’s all accessible.

20,000miles is more than 5 years riding for us, so I’m not frightened off by the need to adjust.

Re pictures, I’ve got a good system - lots of takeaway pots with lids, loads of photos/videos and a sharpie.. each pot is labelled with the item description and a date so that I can easily search the correct photos in several weeks time.

I’m doing this even when it’s REALLY obvious, because I always think I will remember but I never do!

Just an update. 2 months in, hundreds of hours cleaning, ordering new parts, checking this forum etc etc and I’m now starting to go forwards. Some shiny bits are going on. Hopefully by June, it might actually move

Donut 77 wrote: ↑Sat Apr 29, 2023 9:46 am Just an update. 2 months in, hundreds of hours cleaning, ordering new parts, checking this forum etc etc and I’m now starting to go forwards. Some shiny bits are going on. Hopefully by June, it might actually move

It's good once you turn the corner and are now building the bike back up

Chris.

I’m really enjoying it. To think 2 months ago I didn’t even know they existed. The support on here has been invaluable.. I’m also quite in awe of of how clever the designers are at Honda.. how they came up with some of this stuff?? It’s hard enough re-building it - like giant adult Lego. Most of it is still in ok shape too (after a clean up) following what we now think was more like 9 years sat in the rain…

Honda do build them well . 9 years sat in the rain OUCH .
Your doing a good job bringing it back to life