Head Races

[Stratman]

I never had a problem with adjusting the old ones, but they were past it and so I have changed to taper roller bearings. Does anyone else have a problem with these? I can't seem to get the right tension - either some play or too stiff. Keeping the locknut properly tight is a pig too - any thoughts anyone?

May whip them out and go back to the no taper ones.

Cheers

[alan]

Have you tightened the castleated nut down tight enough before torqueing up the top yoke nut?
What about a bit of thread lock on the top yoke nut if you think this is coming loose?

[Max]

When I changed mine I think I over greased them as they took a while to settle down, now they seem fine and don't appear to self adjust anymore

[Stratman]

I think that the overgreasing on re fitting could be a cause - I'll see how they settle down. The adjustment system on these is bloody daft though!

[Stormin Ben]

Also, the installation method on these is slightly different

You need to torque the castellated nut right down (and I'm talking 90Nm right down !)
Then slacken it right off
Finally tighten down to correct torque

Had similar problem on my old ZZR (cue misty eyed tear wiping) and this cured it

[Stratman]

Thanks Stormin Ben - I have always used C spanners in the past and don't have a socket to fit the castellated nut - where do you get one, presumably its a Honda part, or alternatively I could make one up from a large socket I suppose.

[Stormin Ben]

Home made (I dread to think what Honda would charge)

Take one C-spanner
Heat handle and bend it back over itself
Weld old socket onto handle
Paint in colour of you choice


Alternatively you could do up the rear wheel nut and feel how much force that takes.
Then apply a similar force to the C-spanner