Re-packing end cans?

Fireman on a Storm · Post by **Fireman on a Storm** » Sun Aug 20, 2006 7:55 am

Has anyone re-packed their end cans ?(race cans).
Is it easy?
Do you just take the end off and stuff it in?
Where did you get the packing and what is it?

A friend has a full Akro system on both of his TLs1000. One is a bit quieter than the other. He said the cans are double packed. Does this mean there is just more stuffed in?

I ask all this because ages ago I read race cans should be repacked every so often because the packing gets compressed and gradually as it crumbles just gets blown out of the cans. This must be worse on a V twin!

Fireman on a Storm · Post by **Fireman on a Storm** » Sun Aug 20, 2006 8:10 am

JUST FOUND THIS ON A SIGHT SELLING AKROPOVIC EXHAUSTS

Frequently Asked Questions

Q. How often I have to change the silencer packing material (damping wool)? Is it necessary at all?
A. Durability of the damping material depends on the type of the motorcycle, riding style, mileageâ€¦
Normally, single and twin cylinder engines have stronger exhaust gasses, valve pulses and higher temperatures.

Silencer packing material should be replaced when you notice the first visual changes on the muffler sleeve material or when the muffler approaches the circuit noise limit, Please check the muffler visually before every season.

In general the silencer packing material should be replaced every 2 years.

Stratman · Post by **Stratman** » Sun Aug 20, 2006 4:11 pm

I repacked my old carbon cans - you can buy the stuff from M&P or some bike shops quite readily. Take out the remnant of the old, replace with the new, cram it in tight and replace end caps etc. That's all there is too it, but if you've had the carbs set with unpacked pipes it will run a bit richer when they are repacked.

I now have Scorpions and apparently they don't need repacking.

stevieVTR · Post by **stevieVTR** » Sun Aug 20, 2006 5:07 pm

I now have Scorpions and apparently they don't need repacking.

I've had my Scorpions on for 2 years and I'm sure they've got louder. I also think that when I ran them 'baffles out' there were traces of packing in the pipe........ or maybe I'm imagining it

Fireman on a Storm · Post by **Fireman on a Storm** » Sun Aug 20, 2006 5:19 pm

Stratman wrote:I repacked my old carbon cans - you can buy the stuff from M&P or some bike shops quite readily. Take out the remnant of the old, replace with the new, cram it in tight and replace end caps etc. That's all there is too it, but if you've had the carbs set with unpacked pipes it will run a bit richer when they are repacked.

I now have Scorpions and apparently they don't need repacking.

Did you buy it loose or in a sheet?
If it was a sheet did you just cut it and stuff it?

Stratman · Post by **Stratman** » Sun Aug 20, 2006 5:19 pm

I think you are right about there being packing in there, but I did read somewhere that Scorpions never need repacking. I could well have been wrong though, not for the first and not for the last time either!

stevieVTR · Post by **stevieVTR** » Sun Aug 20, 2006 7:19 pm

You're right, they claim that the cans don't need repacking though only time will tell..................

V-Thump · Post by **V-Thump** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 3:44 pm

I have Scorpion Titanium Flame cans on my beast. I approached Scorpion who were unwilling to accept that they needed the packing replacing. I gave up and approached Micron who sent packing material in the post. It took me about six hours to complete from stiripping the bike down to drilling out old rivits and rebuilding. The Scorpion cans are first packed with steel wool and then fibreglass. They had certainly passed their best. Micron don't use any steel wool as they use a long stranded fibreglass material which is less prone to blowing out so you don't need the steel wool. I think this softens the pitch of the exhaust note and is more pleasing. I can't see how steel wool can be any good at absorbing sound. It is a hard job and made me appreciate the value of Micron cans as they have a quick release setup and no rivets. It will be Microns on the next bike.

SILVER ZIPPER · Post by **SILVER ZIPPER** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 5:55 pm

When moto x ing i used to pack the zorst's with any loft or cavity wall insulation worked really well and got my bike's through scrutineering.
Would that work on fourstoke's as i only had two stroke crosser's buy a roll from B&Q it'll last you a lifetime.

streetf2 · Post by **streetf2** » Mon Feb 12, 2007 6:33 pm

Just like to say i make cans for triumph motorcycles and when it comes to packing dont cram the wadding in really tight.Just one even layer of wire wool followed by a just enough wadding rapped around the wool and baffel to comfortably take up the space left not to tight not really loose.if you pack it to tight you wont get as much silencing from the silencer than if it is slightly loose,but if it is to loose then you will loose a bit of performance.And would say the wadding is the most itchy stuff i ever come accross.

Stratman · Post by **Stratman** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 5:59 pm

And would say the wadding is the most itchy stuff i ever come accross.

The itchiest stuff I ever had was after I got back from a weekend in Amsterdam

Only kidding (and lowering the tone)

LotusSevenMan · Post by **LotusSevenMan** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 6:22 pm

Stratman

See here for examples of packing
http://www.bvm-moto.co.uk/exhpac.htm

We find that the packing gets burned away and blown out of Caterham Se7en car exhuasts too so use this stuff.

stormsmasher · Post by **stormsmasher** » Sat Feb 17, 2007 12:02 pm

Give Wayne a bell at JAC exhausts and he will either sell you a re-pack kit or do the job for you for a good price.

http://www.jacexhausts.co.uk

hope this helps

Daz

Jaglifter · Post by **Jaglifter** » Sat Feb 17, 2007 5:11 pm

Used to repack the "silencers" on my competition Jaguar regularly. It would blow out all the packing over a season. Bought it from Merlin Motor sport (at Castle Comb circuit).