Help. Confused. Just doing/checking clearances whilst fitting manual CCTs.
Engine timed perfectly, but the clearances in the Haynes Manual say 0.13mm for the inlet. What is that in thousandths anyone? I make it about 5 thou?
Valve Clearances
Valve Clearances
Two bikes, still only four cylinders!
Hi Paul,
See link, just enter you measurement in the box provided either mm or inches and it will calculate it for you
Chris.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/inche ... d_751.html
See link, just enter you measurement in the box provided either mm or inches and it will calculate it for you
Chris.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/inche ... d_751.html
Thanks Chris - I was right, about 5 thou.
Everything was going so well, new CCTs in - I can't see how you can get the front valve cover off without taking off the carbs and the plastic shielding beneath them, which I did to get better access.
All replaced fine, just tightening up one of the valve cover bolts on the rear cylinder and that awful feeling where the spanner goes loose again - sheared off!
Luckily its one of the front bolts on the rear cylinder, so it is accessible for drilling and application of a stud extractor (just ordered from Screwfix)
I rang Debben Racing (who sold me the APE tensioners) re adjustment on Saturday morning just to clarify a couple of points - very helpful and knowledgeable I found.
As soon as I have the stud out and all ready to rock and roll I'll post back as to how the manual ones are settling in!
Everything was going so well, new CCTs in - I can't see how you can get the front valve cover off without taking off the carbs and the plastic shielding beneath them, which I did to get better access.
All replaced fine, just tightening up one of the valve cover bolts on the rear cylinder and that awful feeling where the spanner goes loose again - sheared off!
Luckily its one of the front bolts on the rear cylinder, so it is accessible for drilling and application of a stud extractor (just ordered from Screwfix)
I rang Debben Racing (who sold me the APE tensioners) re adjustment on Saturday morning just to clarify a couple of points - very helpful and knowledgeable I found.
As soon as I have the stud out and all ready to rock and roll I'll post back as to how the manual ones are settling in!
Two bikes, still only four cylinders!
You were spot-on Paul
You can get the front cam cover off without removing the carbs and the plastic shielding, the reason I know that is because I have done it more than once, but it is a right pain in the butt to do Also I am thinking doing it your way will probably make checking the valve clearances easier to do How much aggro is it to remove the carbs 
as I will be checking the valve clearances on my bike soon
As for removing that sheared off stud, iirc there's a shoulder on the bottom of the bolt, just before the thread starts, (the idea of the shoulder is to govern the amount of pressure that can be applied to the cam cover seal when tightening the bolts down) so that should mean that the threaded part that's still in the cylinder head now should only be hand tight, you should therefore with a small center punch be able to put a mark in it away from the center of it, so you can tap it undone and out
That's good too hear that Debben Racing are right up there with their after sales
Good luck with it all,
Cheers,
Chris.
You can get the front cam cover off without removing the carbs and the plastic shielding, the reason I know that is because I have done it more than once, but it is a right pain in the butt to do
Also I am thinking doing it your way will probably make checking the valve clearances easier to do How much aggro is it to remove the carbs as I will be checking the valve clearances on my bike soon As for removing that sheared off stud, iirc there's a shoulder on the bottom of the bolt, just before the thread starts, (the idea of the shoulder is to govern the amount of pressure that can be applied to the cam cover seal when tightening the bolts down) so that should mean that the threaded part that's still in the cylinder head now should only be hand tight, you should therefore with a small center punch be able to put a mark in it away from the center of it, so you can tap it undone and out
That's good too hear that Debben Racing are right up there with their after sales
Good luck with it all,
Cheers,
Chris.
Chris, I don't think the sheared of bolt will be to difficult to get out and thanks for the observation re the shoulder - the remaining portion shouldn't be too tight as you say.
So far as the carbs go - just loosen and remove the throttle cables, take the carb heater pipe off the rear carb only (very little spillage), unscrew the clamps securing the carbs to the inlet rubbers (need a fairly long pozidriv screwdriver), disconnect throttle position sensor (and anything else thats obvious that I've missed)
You can then jiggle the carbs out of the rubbers, still connected to each other, and move them across and back and out of the way, so no need to remove the front carb heater pipe at all.
Removal of the shrouding will be obvious when you get to it (takes a bit of jiggling) but after that you get a pretty clear view of the fron cover top bolts etc.
So far as the carbs go - just loosen and remove the throttle cables, take the carb heater pipe off the rear carb only (very little spillage), unscrew the clamps securing the carbs to the inlet rubbers (need a fairly long pozidriv screwdriver), disconnect throttle position sensor (and anything else thats obvious that I've missed)
You can then jiggle the carbs out of the rubbers, still connected to each other, and move them across and back and out of the way, so no need to remove the front carb heater pipe at all.
Removal of the shrouding will be obvious when you get to it (takes a bit of jiggling) but after that you get a pretty clear view of the fron cover top bolts etc.
Two bikes, still only four cylinders!
Of course, I should have said that, should I!Chris, I don't think the sheared of bolt will be to difficult to get out and thanks for the observation re the shoulder - the remaining portion shouldn't be too tight as you say.
The drilling into the sheared bolt started OK, but inevitable it slips to the side. Some work with a centre punch, a slightly larger drill bit, try with an easy out, didn't budge. Slightly bigger drill bit, slightly bigger easy out, didn't move. Working in that way, removing the swarf as I went (thopse little magnetic pick up tools are brilliant for that) and I eventually had a hole large enough to tap for the bolt. Its a tad off cente, but luckily on this case it isn't crucial and the new bolt tightened down OK.
Started her up and ran until warm - all seems fine and I must say less "clatter" from the top end than was there before, probably because there are no internals in the new CCT to chatter away.
Bled brakes and clutch with the MityVac doofy I bought at Ally Pally last year - just need to change oil and filter and replace fairing and all ready to go.
No I have to remove the calipers from the TDM as I'm sure the pistons are sticking - they are meant to be R1 calipers but they are crap on the front. Bleed them, oil and filter change and then that's ready too.
Then, wait for a bit of good weather!
Two bikes, still only four cylinders!
Thats what's called sod's law Paul, or thats what I usually call itStratman wrote:Of course, I should have said that, should I!Chris, I don't think the sheared of bolt will be to difficult to get out and thanks for the observation re the shoulder - the remaining portion shouldn't be too tight as you say.
Glad too hear you got it all sorted in the end, even I was quite surprised at how much hassle you had with it, although a sheared off stud can all to often be an unknown quantity
Cheers,
Chris.