VTR1000.ORG

Hi everyone.
I have sold my 1999 Vtr1000F. Didn't get as much as I wanted but it's gone now.
Question. New owner told me that she drained the engine oil and what came out was like water and smelt fuelly.
Could it possibly be a leaking fuel tap or something with the carnies?

8541Hawk wrote: ↑Fri Nov 19, 2021 11:17 pm Have you tried opening the fuel cap to see if the issue goes away as it sounds like the tank vent is blocked.

No, I haven't tried that. Thanks will do.

tony.mon wrote: ↑Fri Nov 19, 2021 1:55 pm Got the petrol tap vac line on the sideways pointing spigot or straight down?
The straight down one is a drain, nothing should be connected there.

Yes, I'm sure I have the vacuum line connected to the sideways spigot. All good there.

Hi Well, I think I balanced the carbies. Not 100% confident. Today I fired up the beast and it idled a bit low after about a minute. Tried to up the idle. All this does is push on the throttle plate, right? New problem. After I adjusted the idle, the motor would bog down on opening the throttle. Lik...

I think I have balanced the carbs - but at startup it still pops back once or twice thru the carbs from cold.

Also, I hardly get a decent vacuum reading. I adjust the damping valves but the needles change only slightly.

Finally got another gauge to add for more accurate and easier readings. The how-to linked above states to open up the throttle to get a more stable vacuum reading. How many revs? 2-3000rpm? Or more? I'm assuming that the vacuum reading goes up as revs increase? This is with the vacuum port coming af...

Thanks for your replies guys.

Well, I added the damping valves, and I think I've busted one gauge as it doesn't read zero with no vacuum.



That'll teach me! No problem, I will source another gauge and refit. You live, you learn.

Stay tuned!

Hooked my vacuum gauges up and started the bike. The gauge needles fluctuate wildly at idle. Do I need to open the throttle to smooth things out? If so, I might need a helping hand from a mate. https://i.ibb.co/H42yvkL/IMG-20211030-105833.jpg EDIT: What I'm missing is a valve to act as a dampening t...

FINALLY got the brass tap screw into the thread. I used a small length of vacuum hose to hold the tap and twist it in.

Honda part used below.

Well, I managed to get that grub screw out.

Is there any trick to screwing in the M5 barb/brass take off? I need smaller fingers!

There is a clamp head getting in the way. May need to move that first.

Is this what I'm trying to remove?



Won't budge using a flexible extension on 4mm allen key head.

I've just removed the airbox and can see the vacuum screw.

Is it an allen key job or something else? If I can't get to it I'll just balance the carbs by sound. Any thoughts on that approach?

Hi
Is there a way to access the front carby vacuum point to balance the carbs without removing the airbox? Or should I remove it to get to the vacuum port?

New bits picked up today. Will fit later.

If anyone reading this is after a barb to fit the front carby vaccum port, this is the Honda one (P/N 16214-MB0-000)