Oil changes

[Griff1977]

Hi all, I'm a new owner of a lovely 02 VTR 1000F in yellow. Just got the bike today and although I'm injured (bed rest for 6 more weeks) I am excited to have the bike after not owning a bike for 10 years!! Anyway, neighbour suggests I might want to get eng oil & filter changed as well as the others- clutch, front brake and fork oil done. The oils are looking quite dark and front suspension a little soft. Any advice (basic even) on getting this done- is it something I could do myself or if not, any idea of what a reasonable garage would charge (so I can brace myself!). Also, just had a grab rail fitted so easier to manoeuvre and better for pillion and I was thinking about a hugger- does anybody think they look good (I do) or any advice for/against having one/best one/best price- ease of fitting?

All these questions hey, it's take take take aren't I!? I want to post a pic of bike on profile but it doesn't allow me yet? Any ideas? Laters all. Griff.

[darkember]

Engine oil is easy to do yourself & will cost in the region of 30 quid including the filter. Not knowing the service history I would recomend also doing the spark plugs & check the air filter.

Finally you may have noticed the threads on the CCT's failing. If you don't know the history of yours I would definitly consider getting some manual ones fitted pronto.

[Wicky]

Also if your Regulator/Rectifier is an early unfinned one to get it upgraded before it lets you down. Another couple of things to look at while the weather is good and you have the time > your shock linkages and give em a good greasing along with the starter motor where the lead enters under the rubber boot.

[Griff1977]

Dark & Wicky, thanks for the reply. It had £500 of work a year ago Inc spark plugs & other. What are your thoughts with front forks - they seem to be quite "spongy" and soft- is it worth changing the oil I wonder? Clutch oil & brake fluid as well if it is dark in colour?

I'm thinking of getting a rear hugger- does any body have any thoughts about if a hugger is necessary - it has a guard in front of the rear shock so that is protected. I like the look of yellow but the carbon fibre colour looks quite good as well.

Finally I've just splashed out on an Optimate 4, seems a good piece of kit as I'm not going to be riding it that much- I take it that the battery cable connector remains on it permanently and just plugs in as and when it's needed? I also bought a cigar lighter cable for it! You never know when you might need a phone charged!

Anyway, any other hints from anyone appreciated.

I'm just east of Oxford and as I'm from up north originally I am struggling to find a good bike shop/garage I can trust to do any future bits of work- anybody live in the area can suggest anywhere?

All done with Qs for now!

[darkember]

Forks are known to be spongy. All depends on your weight & riding style. If u are a lightweight like me 11 stones I found just adjusting the front forks is enough to make it handle reasonably well. However to get the best out of them then yes stiffer springs & heavier fork oil would sort it.

As for the hugger its entirely personal choice. They are handy if you commute alot in that they keep all the crap off the road from hitting the rear shock & swingarm area.

Brake & clutch fluids change them if they are dark. You will notice the clutch fluid tends to darken faster that the brake fluid, never found out the reason for that except that the clutch tends to be used far more than the brake. Optimate 4 wise investment

Still check that the CCT's have been done, cause if they go & u dont stop the bike fast you will be in a whole shedload of pain.

[cliveyandrews]

I'm just east of Oxford and as I'm from up north originally I am struggling to find a good bike shop/garage I can trust to do any future bits of work- anybody live in the area can suggest anywhere?

Try http://www.bannons.co.uk/ - he's in Thame, mobile, a good mechanic, and an SP1 owner...

[Griff1977]

Dark & Clive, thanks. I've looked at the website of Bannons and he seems good, haven't called him but I'll post after I've done anything with him to let you know what I think. The bike will sit in my garage for another 8 weeks or so, so I'm not sure if it's worth getting the oil changed soon or wait until I start riding it? I guess it's worth leaving it. Ta.

[Griff1977]

Also, a lot mentioned about the CCTs need to be considered. Mine done 20800 and I believe CCTs good to do by 30000. I think they have been done already and I will look at paperwork that came with bike to check (receipts). Its been mentioned about checking threads on CCTs and poss fitting manual ones. Can someone explain how to do this? And poss explain the reason for thinking about fitting manual ones? Ta.

[Richy]

The how to do them is in the workshop section, or Rider on a storm sells the manual ones with instructions.

Why manuals? They don't need adjusting all that often, and they have no chance of breaking. Or at least way less than the std ones. I doubt you can put a mileage limit on what the std ones are good to. Some may go on forever, others can fail very early on.

[Griff1977]

I've just read some of the paperwork with the bike and at 16000 miles it had it's last work done- (4000 miles ago)- CTTx2, oil,filter,air filter and all the normal checks. The oil (front brake and clutch) looks black so will prob change that. Q: if the CTTs were changed at 16000 miles, how can I tell if they are manual ones? Ta.

[benny hedges]

show a pic of the ccts mate.... that will show if theyre manual but wont show if they have the stopper added.
id guess if they were done by a honda dealer they will be honda standard parts.
the oil will be ready for doing at 4k... any longer than that you may find the clutch starts to slip a bit at high revs (mine does when its ready for changing)
the more often you change the oil, the healthier the engine, less wear etc.
i only do the filter every other oil change though cos ir a skinflint!

[AMCQ46]

stock CCT has a long thin bell shape aluminium body with an 8mm bolt covering a small inspection hole.

Manual CCT's have a long threaded bolt which is used to conduct the adjustment with a locknut.

some pictures in teh work shop threads will give you the idea

[Griff1977]

Ta guys. It's in with a mechanic tomorrow.