Leaking coolant
Re: Leaking coolant
Cover the bike/engine/radiators with talcum powder then go for a spin - hopefully that'll help you visually id where it's pissing out.
It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others.
VTR Firestorm and other bikes t-shirts
VTR Firestorm and other bikes t-shirts
Re: Leaking coolant
I've eventually got to the bottom of the leak. Unfortunately it appears to be the head gasket leaking.
I tend to try and fix most things myself but I don't think I have the time or skills to replace this. How big of a job is it?
Considering the bikes value, I'm going to have to decide whether it is worth while fixing it.
I tend to try and fix most things myself but I don't think I have the time or skills to replace this. How big of a job is it?
Considering the bikes value, I'm going to have to decide whether it is worth while fixing it.
Re: Leaking coolant
Is it the front or back head that is leaking?
Everything good is bad
Everything bad is good
Everything bad is good
Re: Leaking coolant
Just the back head.
Re: Leaking coolant
Piece of piss to do yourself mate as you can get really good access to the back one. Seat off, tank off remove the carbs and plastic cowling and rear exhaust.
Then you pretty much have full access to the rear head.
Someone will be along soon to confirm my ramblings.
Then you pretty much have full access to the rear head.
Someone will be along soon to confirm my ramblings.
Everything good is bad
Everything bad is good
Everything bad is good
Re: Leaking coolant
As above advice, that's about all the job is, but of course you need to reset the cam timing once the head's back on.
Before taking the rear head off, set the engine at top dead centre with the rear cam lobes facing up and at angle towards each other, then take out the rear cam chain tensioner.
This allows you to take out the cams, don't forget to tie a bit of plastic twine around the cam chain so you can pull it up again.
As long as you don't turn the engine over during the rebuild, it will still be in the correct place to reset the cams so that they are in the same position, with the lines on the sprockets level (or as near as dammit) with the top surface of the head.
BTW, no gasket sealant on the new head gasket; they come with it already on.
It only takes half a day, and is pretty straightforward.
You'll need a good strong 1/2 drive socket set for the 14mm headed head bolts, and there's also two 10mm ones hidden in the cam chain tunnel that need to come out first.
Tighten up the head bolts as tight as you can, without using extensions on the socket set handle.
Before taking the rear head off, set the engine at top dead centre with the rear cam lobes facing up and at angle towards each other, then take out the rear cam chain tensioner.
This allows you to take out the cams, don't forget to tie a bit of plastic twine around the cam chain so you can pull it up again.
As long as you don't turn the engine over during the rebuild, it will still be in the correct place to reset the cams so that they are in the same position, with the lines on the sprockets level (or as near as dammit) with the top surface of the head.
BTW, no gasket sealant on the new head gasket; they come with it already on.
It only takes half a day, and is pretty straightforward.
You'll need a good strong 1/2 drive socket set for the 14mm headed head bolts, and there's also two 10mm ones hidden in the cam chain tunnel that need to come out first.
Tighten up the head bolts as tight as you can, without using extensions on the socket set handle.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.