My VTR is cursed! (No joking)

[Wicky]

I think Krieger's latest CCT has two lengths of bolt - the longest goes on the front cylinder for easier adjustment past the hoses, while the remaining shorter one goes on the rear pot. Though it shouldn't be that short! At least an inch or two of the coach bolt should be visible. Can you post a pic of the troublesome area?

[Wicky]

I haven't tried it. The Bike is still on the garaje, tomorrow Im going to pick it up. But im scared about I think its too tight and there is a lot of pressure on the chain. :S

Have you turned the engine over from the generator access hole using a 17mm socket - recommended to do before firing up to check nothing untoward has occurred during fitment.

Did the mechanic use the procedure for installing the CCts outlined in the Workshop Knowledgebase?

[Rad_Draven]

Yes Wicky, one tensioner is far longer that the other one, and the larger goes on the front cilinder. And yes, I gave the instructions to my mechanic too.

Looking the photos that you posted, my bike is definitely not like that. The rear one is shorter by far than that one. My mechanic started the bike and took a ride on it and told me that the bike was working fine but I havent tried it yet. But I think it sounds nice. (At least I havent heard nothing special)

And about the photos, I dont have any, but you can imagine... The pic of the second cilinder that you posted but between the nut and the base of the CCT, only two milimeters. So what do I do now?

[Rad_Draven]

I've found a video on youtube about how it looks on my bike

I know that It is very unclear, but is what I have found.

[Wicky]

Did you or your mechanic measure the total length of the new rear tensioner bolt before installing it? Try emailing Mark with a pic of the problem: Mark Krieger <mkrieger002 at columbus.rr.com>. Tricky as it's now installed but hopefully it is just a shorter than normal bolt? and he might send you a replacement.

[Wicky]

Front CCT looks fine but too dark to see the rear one fitted.

I've found a video on youtube about how it looks on my bike

I know that It is very unclear, but is what I have found.

[Rad_Draven]

I contacted Mr Krieger and he helped me a lot. Now the bike seems to work fine. I'll upload some photos on of these days. Thanks a lot for your help!

[Stratman]

I contacted Mr Krieger and he helped me a lot. Now the bike seems to work fine. I'll upload some photos on of these days. Thanks a lot for your help!

Good news!

[Wicky]

Excellent - What was the solution to the problem?

[Rad_Draven]

That's what Mr Krieger told me:

"There is one way to know. Get someone who has some mechanical skills to simply follow the instructions in the kit.

While the engine is cold, loosen the locking nut, if the adjuster bolt is too tight to turn out by hand it is too tight. Loosen the adjuster bolt out a turn or two by hand, then turn back in BY HAND aka finger tight. Turn the engine over with a wrench on the end of the crank, while trying to tighten the adjuster bolt by hand (to make sure all the slack is out of the cam drive) then back the adjuster bolt out 1/8-1/4 turn and lock it down with the lock nut. Don't even bother with the hot adjustment, this should be sufficient. The only reason to ever put a wrench on the cam chain adjuster for adjustment is if it was too hot to handle during a fine tuning adjustment and even then I'd use a socket (without a ratchet) and a pair of gloves.

The adjustment bolt tightness is no where near the need for a wrench. Make sure they didn't. I'd have the mechanic repeat the adjustment for you to see or get someone else to adjust it while you are there. There is no risk loosening the locking nut and backing out the bolt a few turns (.050" movement for each turn), just don't back the bolt way out, that would put too much play in the cam chain and risk movement of timing. I'm talking maybe three or four turns at most. Then readjust."

I did it, I loosed the locking nut and checked how tight was the bolt. And I was able to turn it by hand, so then, both tensioners were right placed on the bike.

The thing is the rear one looks too tight but is not. I'll try to upload one photo of it this week. Thanks again to all, and I hope I wont have more problems on this damn bike.

[Wicky]

So assuming the MCCT bolt is of a good length - you seem to have a slack cam-chain.. Most peculiar. The only way to find out for sure is to take the 'short' CCT out and measure it and take the cam cover off to inspect the cam-chain to see if it is within tolerance.

[tony.mon]

I fitted a pair of Kreiger cct's today, and yes, the rear one is shorter than the front one.

You end up with only three threads showing after adjusting them, but it's possible to move the domed nut higher, as it has a thin locknut beneath to lock it onto the bolt end; this means it can be retracted a few mm and re-locked.

[Wicky]

The one's I fitted from Mark Krieger (note spelling) were his early prototype ones before he made the change to a shorter rear one - so a 1/4" added back on in length wouldn't go amiss?

Phew! At least that clears up that Rad_Draven's bike's camchain is fine.

[Rad_Draven]

Thats how it looks on my bike:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/83 ... 12160.jpg/

http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/1397/15022012160.jpg

Good to heard that its normal

[Diabolus]

Glad I got a set of bazzas it does'nt look right, and bazza pins the dome nut to the end of the bolt, a much neater job