Going to attempt Changing my CCT's to manuals!!

[VTRPiG]

Hi there guys decided I'm going to attempt to chang my CCT's. I recieved my APE CCT's today and have done quite alot of reading up and seen the great write up in the workshop section.

Question is am I being a little to ambitious trying this myself as I haven't done anything like this before? I am pretty mechanically minded and always double check and sometimes triple check over things before going through with it. I have the bike booked in to ERS Racing up at Knockhill next Tuesday but really keen to try this myself as I am always just booking the car or bike into the garage without trying to do the work myself, and feel 'well no time like the present to start!'

Any tips or advice would be great,any warnings to look out for too.

cheers

[lloydie]

best tip i can give is = take your time and enjoy doing it your self and follow the guide on here .

[Bob C]

Hi

I did mine myself 5 weeks ago and it is really not that difficult. The worst part of the job was making the small locking pin that is described in the haynes manual. Go on give it a go with the tips on here

[AMCQ46]

and if in doubt ask a question on here and someone will give you a contact number and talk you through it.

[VTRPiG]

Cheers guys will continue reading and going over everything and make some notes so as to cross each step out as I go along. Actually starting to look forward to it...woohoo!

Don't have a paddock stand,is it advisable to get one or can it be done with the bike on it's side stand?

[AMCQ46]

side stand will work, not ideal, but cant see why not

[pete1781]

did mine on the side stand a couple of weeks ago, worked fine I thought, I was worried about doing it myself to but it was'nt that bad really, did have a mechanic mate watching over me though

[Jazzscot]

Im not far away mate. I have now done 3 sets with no problems reported.
Jazz

[Pyro]

Hi

I did mine myself 5 weeks ago and it is really not that difficult. The worst part of the job was making the small locking pin that is described in the haynes manual. Go on give it a go with the tips on here

Theres no need to make a locking pin when converting to mccts, just wind out each of the 2 bolts evenly a little at a time when removing the old sprung cct and you wont have a problem.
its an easy job, the guides on here are great.

[sirch345]

I presume you are following this link for setting the valve timing (I know you're going to fit manuals, but the procedure is the same process for setting the engine in the right positions timing-wise):-
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8326

You're making the right sounds by saying you check everything twice or even three times, so that is good, plus you're mechanically minded which is good. Taking your time is the right way to go about it IMHO, if you want to get it right first time.

Chris.

[VTRPiG]

Right as long as the rain holds out this weekend will be doing the CCT's on Sunday. Thanks again for all the tips and advice, it has made the all the less daunting and seems very do able.

I have been on the Superhawk site and they also have a CCT installation guide. One question on their guide they don't remove the alternator cover but instead put the bike on a paddock stand and put it into sixth gear and just use the rear wheel to rotate the engine and line up the timing marks. So my question is- Is that an acceptable way of doing it? Will it still have the same results as rotating the engine with a wrench? Only ask as if it is the same it is one less thing to take off the engine.

[Pyro]

Yes that will work as a last resort but unavoidable slop in the drive system can make it frustrating getting the marks lined up.
the timing cap is a pain but someone in years to come will thank you for taking time to take it out and grease it. good karma.
its a piece of piss once you know how too remove the stuck one, but you'll want a replacement ready, and you can get bling ones. use a 5mm drill to make 2 holes of 5mm depth at the 3 and 9oclock positions, looking at the replacement to see where the deepest place to drill is-to get a nice sharp ledge to get a purchase with a punch or small chisel -give it a whack round- you are trying to shock the cap to turn. it should pop quite easily.

[VTRPiG]

Ok as long as the rain holds off north of the border I'm gonna attempt to do my CCT's tomorrow morning. Thank you all for all your tips and advise it has been really helpful and helped me understand what i am about to attempt a lot more.

As this is the first time I have attempted anything like this I'm sure there will be a hic up or 2 ... When I am putting all the bolts back in do I need to grease the threads or apply loctite? And can I reuse the gaskets on the cam covers/aternator cover/s? The bike has a pro bolt kit so hopefully there will be no issues with the alt cover

Will keep you all informed on how it goes

I also have an issue with the fan, I did connect it directly to the battery but there was no life in it, may of done it incorrectly. Will get the fairing off tomorrow too and get a better look at it.

[Wicky]

You don't need to take the alternator cover off, just the 2 inspection caps. A small amount of Loctite is needed on the manual CCTs on the adjuster bolt as oil otherwise can seep up the thread and dribble out. A dap of copper grease on two securing bolts for the MCCTs before torqing back up not too tight or too loose,

On the cam covers there are rubbery gaskets that might need a thin dap or two of silicone gasket to hold them in place when putting the cam covers back on.

[sirch345]

As Wicky says, plus, don't over tighten the cam cover bolts. It's easy to over tighten them if you're not using a torque wrench.

If you have a look at one of the bolts once removed you'll see a shoulder at the top of the threads. On refitting once that shoulder has come into contact with the cylinder head as you're screwing them in, you just need to nip them up from there. If you over tighten them they will shear off.

Good luck with it,

Chris.