TPS

[twist]

I did the TPS adjustment yesterday and took the bike out for a ride today. I managed to get the sensor adjusted to 503 and left it there. There is a real difference! 1st gear, no throttle, it runs at idle speed without hiccuping or chugging! It pulls from a dead stop very smooth and even through 2nd gear. 3rd gear has always been about where my bike begins to pull hard but now it does it from 1st. An easy adjustment and it's free! Better running with about an hour of time and it cost nothing! Shifting is different now, too. Better because the engine is running smoother. I can't wait to do the pilot jet/slider modification now. (for the cost of a couple of #48 pilot jets, thin needle washers and a daub of epoxy the bike can run even better). This means the twisties will be even more fun with the bike revving so cleanly.

[VTRDark]

I can vouch for the TPS helping with those symptoms you described http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 01#p222504 I've been saying it for ages that it helps with the general smooth running.

So you going for Hawks carb set up then. Just make sure you have an original air filter.

(:-})

[twist]

I can vouch for the TPS helping with those symptoms you described http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 01#p222504 I've been saying it for ages that it helps with the general smooth running.

So you going for Hawks carb set up then. Just make sure you have an original air filter.

(:-})

why do you say that?

[VTRDark]

Say what Just saying I can vouch for it as it works. I had slimier problems when I first got my VTR. When I adjusted the TPS it worked. It does seem to not work so well for some people, but I suspect they have other issues as well like carb mixture or jetting.

If your referring to the air filter, sorry I should have said standard. Hawks set up will only work with a standard filter. His set up does not work with aftermarket filters. I think maybe some have got it to work with an aftermarket but with great difficulty and a lot of trial and error. So a standard filter is recommended.

(:-})

[twist]

Say what Just saying I can vouch for it as it works. I had slimier problems when I first got my VTR. When I adjusted the TPS it worked. It does seem to not work so well for some people, but I suspect they have other issues as well like carb mixture or jetting.

If your referring to the air filter, sorry I should have said standard. Hawks set up will only work with a standard filter. His set up does not work with aftermarket filters. I think maybe some have got it to work with an aftermarket but with great difficulty and a lot of trial and error. So a standard filter is recommended.

(:-})

Sorry, yes I was referring to the filter. I didn't know that his mod only worked with stock filter. Does that mean any brand oem filter as opposed to say K&N? Or does that mean it has to be a honda filter to run properly? I don't plan to run an aftermarket filter and will stay with recommended filter as long as I can choose one from other than honda. BTW, what is your opinion of aftermarket air filters?

[VTRDark]

Does that mean any brand oem filter

Yes any brand OEM filter is OK.

As for aftermarket filters I currently run a K&N. but I have got a Factory Pro jet kit installed. I think these give maximum airflow, but with a lot of airflow, a lot of fuel is needed. More air = more fuel = more power. The K&N is a hard to get tubed in correctly as it is well know for suffering from a flat spot somewhere across the rev-range which is hard to get dialled out.

I'm thinking of getting a BMC Street filter which is supposed to be one of best from a tuning point and gives airflow somewhere between the OM filter and a K&N. The BMC Race is more like a K&N. BMC's are also what fatory pro advertise/sell and as they are correct regarding the TPS I have my faith in them. They have been tuning for many years and everythhing has been dyno tested.

Don't forget these are the biggest carbs that Honda ever made for a road bike, hence the reason they can be the hardest to tune and get dialled in right. This is also why the airbox is very temperamental and does not like things being changed.

Have fun.

(:-})

[Rob]

Will check my TPS soon.

Bike runs fine with no flat spots but idle is a bit lumpy. Better after a service today but still not great.

Maybe due to Dynojet/K&N but original exhaust back on (although with 6x7mm baffle bypass holes each side)

[vtrjames]

+1 with the tps, set mine today, was sitting at 900 ohms. set to just over 500 ohms, havnt been out for a ride but run the engine and can see a major improvement in smoothness

[twist]

Yes, I am really surprised that the little adjustment can make such a difference and the bike runs a lot better, AND it's free! My VTR really idles a lot smoother and is almost another bike pulling 1st through 2nd. Makes it easier to ride around the city where I rarely get to use 3rd. The lower gears made it so I avoided riding in the city. One of the best modifications I've ever done, so far.

[Rob]

Checked mine today - 826 ohms.

Hopefully I'll get chance to adjust it tomorrow

[twist]

Now that I'v done the TPS, I'm going after the CCT's tomorrow. A fellow rider had the worst happen to his newly purchased VTR with low miles, 19000 mi. He hasn't even paid it off and now he has a top end rebuild on his hands. It got me off my lard butt and doing the job I've been putting off.

[Rob]

Well, seems like I got lucky.

Removed the tank, twisted the TPS all the way round and got 490 ohms

Replaced the pins with 5mm S/S nudged it back slightly and tightened it and got 496. Good enough. Just ordered a Carbtune Pro so will sync the carbs, reset the idle and adjust it again if necessary when it turns up. Checked with 2 calibrated Fluke meters and they both agreed....

It doesn't idle any better but did seem smoother and more responsive on a little test run.

[NOBLEVTR]

Say what Just saying I can vouch for it as it works. I had slimier problems when I first got my VTR. When I adjusted the TPS it worked. It does seem to not work so well for some people, but I suspect they have other issues as well like carb mixture or jetting.

If your referring to the air filter, sorry I should have said standard. Hawks set up will only work with a standard filter. His set up does not work with aftermarket filters. I think maybe some have got it to work with an aftermarket but with great difficulty and a lot of trial and error. So a standard filter is recommended.

(:-})

Sorry, yes I was referring to the filter. I didn't know that his mod only worked with stock filter. Does that mean any brand oem filter as opposed to say K&N? Or does that mean it has to be a honda filter to run properly? I don't plan to run an aftermarket filter and will stay with recommended filter as long as I can choose one from other than honda. BTW, what is your opinion of aftermarket air filters?

hi carl set my tps to around 500 ohms with a k&n fitted but the bike still would'nt run smooth so put back in the standard filter, and did the air box mod where you remove the rail and cut off the flap on the filter ,and the bike is spot on now no holes or hesitation, mixture might need to be adjusted.

[VTRDark]

Hello mate, What's the bike idle like? It may be running slightly rich now, as the standard air filter is not giving as much airflow as the K&N. You may need to adjust the mixture slightly. If it is a bit on the rich side you may find the idle drops slightly below the set idle speed for a moment and goes back up.

(as received from Honda)
Stock From Honda: Stock Filter
-Mains Jet Front 175 Rear 178
-Pilot Jet Front 45 Rear 45
-Fuel Screw (Turns Out) Front 3 1/16 Rear 2 1/2
-Stock needle

Now if I recall you have 48 pilots so your fuel screw (mixture) wont need to be out as far as the stock setting. I would think it would need to be about 2.5 on the front and 2 1/4 on the rear, give or take a 1/4 of a turn.

Every bike is slightly different and each screw may be a different setting, and that is OK. Do not be concerned with differences between the front and rear. They don't need to be the same since each cylinder has slightly different fueling requirements. These will change with normal engine wear, valves, carbon deposits, etc hence the reason every bike is slightly different.

Have you got standard or aftermarket cans. I can't remember!

(:-})