New Rings / New Engine

[AMCQ46]

Weather might just be good enough for a ride. I am getting withdrawal symptoms so might just go riding too

[Trainraider]

Price is roughly:
Rings: 100€
Honing: 100€
gaskets/seals/100€
bearings and piston bolts and other smaller bits: 100€
add 55€ for each bent or damaged valve. Valve works: 100€

So pretty much everything will cost 100€ each...

You might want to add at least 50% for the workshop hours as I got the relatively cheap.
I would assume that this case the exchange rate is not needed and you can use those figures with £ as well.

If you need to go to over sized pistons... That's then extra 500€.

[agentpineapple]

cheaper and easier to get a secondhand engine, the only downside is knowing if the engines any good(ask lloydie) and tbh the engine in the salvage bike that i bought is totally unproven, i mean i've had it running for a couple of minutes and it sounds strong, but who knows. it depends how attached you are to your bike, personally i think you've spent to much time and money on it to just sell it and walk away, maybe you can go down the route i did, by an accident damaged bike, that way you should be able to hear the engine running before you part with the cash, if my plan works then i would have got my 16k engine for free, it just means i've got to pull my finger out and get this spare bike of mine finished and sold

[seb421]

tester about £15-20 on ebay. from the smoke you decribe it sounds like stem seals..

here's how to use it.. remove spark plugs, diconnect coils (you don't want a bolt off them), connect to one cylinder then full throttle and crank it over, compression should go up pretty quick on the gauge and settle, about 5 seconds or so, if it settles low then rises slowly you have sticky rings. if it comes up ok but is too low then it's either rings or valve stem seals/valve guides/bent valve or burnt out valve. to find out if it's rings or the head pour some oil (teaspoon full) down the bore leave it a few mins then test again, if compression comes up good then your problem is the rings, if compression still low it's the head and probably just valve stem seals as you've said it's burning oil. Repeat for other cylinder..
when the heads off it's easy to do a leak test on the valves before taking valve springs off, then when replacing seals measure the guides to be sure

The workshop manual should have compression figures in psi, there will be an upper and lower limit.

Compression test is best done hot as figures are usually quoted as hot, trouble is you'll burn your hands easily, Do it cold then add 5% to the figure for a hot reading,,

thanks for the excellent write up and thanks for the offer of the comp tester Al, ill get one from halfords at the weekend and see where im at with it

[hawky]

If you get stuck just gimme a pm as have a spare motor here i have in my spares for track build in genuine perfect order...manual cct's/recent shim service/clutch/ 38k miler and no it doesnt smoke/use 1 ltr oil a day £325..Well...i have 2 spare bikes if you need owt

[VTRDark]

use 1 ltr oil a day

Are you sure about that.

(:-})

[hawky]

use 1 ltr oil a day

Are you sure about that.

(:-})

[seb421]

Done compression test today
Engine wasn't Stine cold but wasn't st normal running temp, didn't have enough fuel to take it for a run

Front held at 125psi

Rear held at 137.5psi

Workshop manual says it should be 164psi

Can probably add a few psi to these as it wasn't at full running temp

I will try the oil trick dripped in and tried again like popkat said and report back

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