The real deal is to do everything by yourself.
So instead of spending 25€ for the USB output cable, I decided to do one my own.
What do you need:
- 1 pc: 330nF 50V condenser
- 1 pc: 100nF 50V condenser
- 1 pc: 10uf 25V electrolyte
- 1 pc: fixed voltage regulator (fx. UA7805CV 5V)
- weatherproof USB plug (this is hard to find and expensive)
- stable hands, soldering iron, shrink wrap, silicone etc.
And of course schema for that:
This can be done easy way, or the hard way. I did it hard way and got my coworker to solder it for me.
So when all the components are soldered it should look more or less like this:
Then you need some shrink and silicone. Fill the soldered open wires with silicone. Cut nice piece of "shrink" and slide it on top of the components. Apply heat and add another smaller shrink if needed (in my case I needed, therefore also the white piece of shrink).
The result should be something like this:
Then solder the USB plug to the cables. When you have soldered the +5V and GND to the USB plug you also need to connect the data pins with jumper cable. This is a standard thing and mobile phones don't charge without this. (took some research to find out this one, so now this hidden knowledge is also shared)
The ready set looks something like this:
And then testing.
This particular unit tolerates voltage range between 7-20V so even if your rectifier is blown, this will work nicely.
One thing is that the voltage regulator gets HOT. So you need to connect that to a bike frame or something else what will distribute the heat. Also the USB plug of course needs to be connected to somewhere. I will return to that when the motor is back in one piece.
The pieces cost roughly 15€ where the USB plug and the cap for that were 13€.
Good luck with your own electric engineering and the fitting instructions will follow when I am that far.
