SP2 problem

[popkat]

Got an SP2 coming to me to fix, I'm told it starts fine but when it warms up the engine will stop and an FI light comes on. I've read that bridging the green block connector taps into the clocks fault code menu, as long as this is right ? i can find the code. will then need to find what the code number corresponds to, anyway bikes coming to me next week, just wondered if any SP owners have heard of a similar issue ?

[turbo_billy]

Not sure of the problem but the F1 light should identify the fault. It blinks a certain number of times depending what the fault is eg. map sensor, etc. Check the corresponding number of blinks with the fault codes listed in the Honda service manual. It then tells you how to check futher. PDF versions of the manual should be available online.

[benny hedges]

check the air filter(s) isnt dirty.
and oil.

i had it intermittently on the sp1 but it went away after a service.

[Pete.L]

Poor Battery connector is the most common problem for an intermittant flashing warning light. Clean it and re-tighten it.
Does he have any other symptoms? how's the bike running?
Also. Carl Slater does all the manuals on-line for free. Just down load and follow the instructions for resetting the fauls codes.

Pete.l

[benny hedges]

Poor Battery connector is the most common problem for an intermittant flashing warning light.

mine did this and it was the + battery terminal had snapped inside the red rubber shroud.

[popkat]

Thanks guys i'll let you know my findings next week when i've had a look at it.

[popkat]

Right i've had a quick look today and checked for fault codes. with the connector bridged then turn on the ignition the fi light comes on for 1 or 2 seconds then flashes 3 times then goes out, if i wait a few seconds it repeats this, so i'm thinking it's 1 long blink then 3 short which should mean error code 13. Has anyone got a manual they could check to see what code 13 is for please. I've tried searching the net and can't find anything.

When i started the bike from cold it ran then conked out, it wouldn't start and the Fi light was on, i turned ignition off and back on again and it started, this time i kept it running with the throttle. When the temp got upto about 76 degree's it started missing, the Fi light came on again and then it stopped, this time there was a strong smell of petrol. Left it a while and tried again, same thing happened.

[benny hedges]

injector fault. check all elec teminals / connectors.
barometric sensor (fairing off job)


get the manuals from carlsalter.com

http://www.carlsalter.com/pdfs/Honda_VT ... Manual.pdf

&

http://www.carlsalter.com/pdfs/Honda_SP ... Manual.pdf

the codes are listed and possible causes / remedies

before you go mad looking though.... has it got a power commander fitted???
try disconnecting it and see how it runs.
could well be the map is corrupted. take off the seat & tail plastics, lift up the tank & get someone to hold it up while you disconnect it - its halfway down the tank on the left, 2 big grey round plugs.
remove the power commander and plug the oem plugs together and try it.

and up the idle a bit. on the rhs just above the clutch casing - you may have to remove the 'special screw' on the rhs fairing to get at it.

[popkat]

Cheers Benny

I don't think it's got a power commander but i'll check for one, and follow your other tips. looks like code 13 could be right i'll check it out tomorrow.

[popkat]

Double checked the fault again today and 13 blinks = injector fault, the rear one on the rear cylinder. went through the stages in the manual testing for amps/resistance/continuity, all came up ok, unplugged the ecm unit to check, don't have a the wiring test harness so in theory couldn't test the ecm. I put it all back together and cleared the fault code, started it up and it ran fine all the way upto the fans coming on, before it would splutter, stop and dump fuel at around 76-78 degree's. checked for fault codes and none, ran it up to temp again and all ok, took it for a short ride and again all ok. So the problem seems to have cleared up, not sure exactly what it was but disconnecting everything may have helped, it also could have been trouble from an older problem where the bike was lighlty dropped whilst being pushed (had run out of petrol)..

Thanks again for the help and info on this

[tony.mon]

It needs a longer ride, mate.
Drop it round here; I'll push it until it runs out of petrol.....

[popkat]

Your right there mate, it was lovely to ride, even if it was freezing. I've always liked them they're a cracking bike

[benny hedges]

don't have a the wiring test harness

bridge the 2 terminals in the green connector block (with a piece of wire) behind the battery, on the right, under the seat.
that should display the codes in numbers on the speedo



btw if it wont start after being dropped, check the tilt sensor & sensor relay on the rhs next to the tail lamp.
if it goes over 60* it will cut the power to the ignition & fuel pump.

usually it wont restart until you take out the ignition key, arm & disarm the alarm then switch back on & it should be ok - unless the tilt sensor / relay is duff.

a common mod is to turn the tilt switch through 90* so it acts like an anti-flip switch (much more usefull imo)
you can then quite confidently wheelie it without worrying about getting a screen in the face or being spat off...
just dont try & ascend a 3:1 hill

[popkat]

I bridged the two terminals on the green connector to get the codes and clear them after. The wiring test harness is another seperate wiring part the goes between the main loom and the ecm/ecu, it's a Honda part. In theory you need it to determine if the ecm is knackered or the part your testing, it would be the last in the list of tests to do, it allows you to use a meter on the terminals when it's all live. think it's shown on page 5-10 of the manual you linked.