Hi,
Currently tiding up the storm, my engine casings (Clutch, Altenator & Water Pump) are looking tatty.
I want to take them off and paint them.
Is it as easy as un bolting them & pulling them off ?
Or is there things lurking behind that will fall out then ill be in the s**t etc etc !!!
Engine Casings
Re: Engine Casings
alternator stator lives in the outer cover casing, but as long as you unpug that from the harness [and have drained the oil] you will be ok.
water pump just comes off with no issues
clutch has the ignition timing pick up attached but again it can be unplugged from the other side of teh v.
take care not to loose the dowel pegs, and dont damage teh faces when you scrape off teh old gasket and you will be fine.
tip when replacing the gasket is to grease one side of the joint then next time you take off the casing it will come apart without damaging the gasket
water pump just comes off with no issues
clutch has the ignition timing pick up attached but again it can be unplugged from the other side of teh v.
take care not to loose the dowel pegs, and dont damage teh faces when you scrape off teh old gasket and you will be fine.
tip when replacing the gasket is to grease one side of the joint then next time you take off the casing it will come apart without damaging the gasket
AMcQ
-
sirloveyou
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Wed Jul 07, 2010 6:32 pm
Re: Engine Casings
I was going to use a liquid gasket will this be ok ?AMCQ46 wrote:alternator stator lives in the outer cover casing, but as long as you unpug that from the harness [and have drained the oil] you will be ok.
water pump just comes off with no issues
clutch has the ignition timing pick up attached but again it can be unplugged from the other side of teh v.
take care not to loose the dowel pegs, and dont damage teh faces when you scrape off teh old gasket and you will be fine.
tip when replacing the gasket is to grease one side of the joint then next time you take off the casing it will come apart without damaging the gasket
Re: Engine Casings
A picture of the inside of the clutch casing so you know what to expect.
The hard bit will be breaking the seal for the first time where it's stuck on to the engine casing. You will notice little leverage tabs on the outside edge of the outer casing that will help to pry it off. IIRC One near the base of the rearset, one on the top right near the bottom of the reservoir bottle and another on the left above the rearset area. Try not to damage the edge of the casing with a screwdriver or something prying it off. Those tabs do help if you can get the leverage. I think I ended up using the the end of a flat head screwdriver and rested up against those tabs and giving a light tap with a hammer in places as it's hard to get the leverage with other parts in the way. You can also, if you are careful, remove the filler cap and use a flat head screwdriver against one of the clutch plates and and lever it against the filler plug hole tp pry it away. Once you initially break the seal and a bit of air gets in there it's easy.
I find it easier to unbolt the pick up rather than unplug it as the plug is tucked away.
You probably could get away with using liquid gasket seal but it's not ideal as the paper gasket is thicker and gives more clearance between the clutch pressure plate and the inside of the clutch case. Why not just use a paper one and grease one side so it reusable. It will be easier to remove the casing again in the future if needs be.
(:-})
The hard bit will be breaking the seal for the first time where it's stuck on to the engine casing. You will notice little leverage tabs on the outside edge of the outer casing that will help to pry it off. IIRC One near the base of the rearset, one on the top right near the bottom of the reservoir bottle and another on the left above the rearset area. Try not to damage the edge of the casing with a screwdriver or something prying it off. Those tabs do help if you can get the leverage. I think I ended up using the the end of a flat head screwdriver and rested up against those tabs and giving a light tap with a hammer in places as it's hard to get the leverage with other parts in the way. You can also, if you are careful, remove the filler cap and use a flat head screwdriver against one of the clutch plates and and lever it against the filler plug hole tp pry it away. Once you initially break the seal and a bit of air gets in there it's easy.
I find it easier to unbolt the pick up rather than unplug it as the plug is tucked away.
You probably could get away with using liquid gasket seal but it's not ideal as the paper gasket is thicker and gives more clearance between the clutch pressure plate and the inside of the clutch case. Why not just use a paper one and grease one side so it reusable. It will be easier to remove the casing again in the future if needs be.
(:-})
==============================Enter the Darkside
Re: Engine Casings
No, use the factory gaskets or you will just be asking for trouble....sirloveyou wrote:I was going to use a liquid gasket will this be ok ?AMCQ46 wrote:alternator stator lives in the outer cover casing, but as long as you unpug that from the harness [and have drained the oil] you will be ok.
water pump just comes off with no issues
clutch has the ignition timing pick up attached but again it can be unplugged from the other side of teh v.
take care not to loose the dowel pegs, and dont damage teh faces when you scrape off teh old gasket and you will be fine.
tip when replacing the gasket is to grease one side of the joint then next time you take off the casing it will come apart without damaging the gasket
Loud pipes don't save lives, knowing how to ride your bike will save your life.