Fork rebound adjuster replacement?

[Jamoi]

I have some forks which have pretty chewed up rebound adjusters on top, I suspect the wrong size drive has been used or perhaps they wanted to screw them in further than what it's capable of.

Anyhoo, can someone advise me on the best way to go about changing them? The forks have been rogered so id like to make use of the adjustment which should be available.

Cheers!

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[popkat]

Not sure if the adjuster is available on it's own ? your best bet is to see if anyone has 2nd hand fork tops, the whole cap which includes rebound and preload, standard items are ok, nothing is done to these when forks are reworked. To widen your search It's possible CBR600fm-fw model tops will fit as they are a similar fork, same diameter and look the same, but not tried them so can't be sure.

[AMCQ46]

yup, I agree. the long rods are the part that Rodger has modified, the caps can be replaced with other ones from a crashed storm with bent forks........... Mac, do you have any left over?

[MacV2]

yup, I agree. the long rods are the part that Rodger has modified, the caps can be replaced with other ones from a crashed storm with bent forks........... Mac, do you have any left over?

Yes.

PM sent to Master James.

Hopefully he'll read it before buying a set of forks off e-bay...

[sirch345]

Personally I'd have a word with Roger seeing as he has reworked them, as it will not be a straight swap over.

Chris.

[VTRDark]

yup, I agree. the long rods are the part that Rodger has modified, the caps can be replaced with other ones from a crashed storm with bent forks.

Yes but there is way to set them up/adjust them correctly, because wherever the locknut ends up on the damper tube will determine the control/amount on the rebound. It's not just a straight swap.

You can totally undo the rebound screw along with the rod (keep turning clockwise) and separate it from the preload body. There's a rubber seal/o ring in there. I can''t remember off the top of my head if there is a cotter pin or something holding the damping rod on to the rebound screw end or if it's one piece I have never separated the rod from rebound screw! if one piece, you will have to deal with the opposite end where it should be tapered to match your existing one.

So basically your not going to be able to get one from another bike and do a simple straight swap. First you need to deal with the taper on the rod cause I don't think it's separating from the screw. And then you need to get it set up correctly. With the preload/rebound cap back on the fork you ideally want one full turn clockwise before it seats into the valve at the tapered end. The position of this is determined by how far along the thread the lock nut is locked off on the damping tube.

(:-})

[AMCQ46]

the setting on the damping screws is defined as the number of turns from fully in [ie the taper rod is fully down into the valve and there is mechanical contact], so it is self calibrating. the only thing you have to worry about when you put the caps on is trying to make the screws look like they are approximatly at the same depth when in the fully in position. if they are not in the same position [depth into or above the top cap] it makes no impact on the fork tuning, it will just look a bit crap.

I do this by screwing the damper rod all the way down and adjusting the locknut position so the screw head is just flush with the fork tops before I tighten the locck nut

[Jamoi]

Thanks for all your input lads, I figured it wouldn't be easy!

If I can get them to unscrew enough, could I simply recut the slot 3mm deeper and file the top down a bit to smarten them up?

I think I'll get in touch with Roger if the above isn't an option.

The adjusters are wound fully in, so if the forks perform alright like that I might just leave them for now...?

To be honest with the standard forks I didn't mind them too much apart from the occasional compression lock under heavy braking. So hopefully these will be an improvement even with the adjusters set fully in?!

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[VTRDark]

he setting on the damping screws is defined as the number of turns from fully in, so it is self calibrating...........

Wrong...sorry Al I got to disagree with that as the position of the rebound screw affects the amount of fluid flow past the taper. The lower it is the taper closes of the gap until totally seated. The higher it is the more of a gap is created allowing more fluid flow. It needs to be set at the correct level to begin with.

Jamie your best bet is to contact Roger as Sirch said! He'll me more than willing to advice you.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/memberlis ... le&u=10207

(:-})

[VTRDark]

If I can get them to unscrew enough, could I simply recut the slot 3mm deeper and file the top down a bit to smarten them up?

It goes the other way. Screw them in until it pops out the bottom of the preload body. You will need to loosen the IIRC12mm locknut on the bottom first. Best to undo the locknut and slide the whole preload/rebound cartridge body out from the tube along with the damping rod.

Just in case you haven't seen it.
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 10#p280379

(:-})

[Jamoi]

Thanks guys

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[AMCQ46]

I am having a bit of a senile moment, forget what I said about just changing the caps...........the damping rods with the tapers [which have been modified] are built into the fork caps.........so you cant just put new caps on

[AMCQ46]

he setting on the damping screws is defined as the number of turns from fully in, so it is self calibrating...........

Wrong...sorry Al I got to disagree with that as the position of the rebound screw affects the amount of fluid flow past the taper.
(:-})

it OK Carl, I was too quick writing my reply and didnt make any of it very clear. we both agree that it is the position of the taper with respect to the oriface that controls the flow and hence is very important. But what I was trying to say was that if you dont take care during assembly of the position of the lock nuts etc, your screw heads could look like one is further in than the other when the tapered rod is turned fully in and seated in the valve.............that will not effect the performance as you would be setting them x turns from this fully in position, but they will look like they are not equally set as the screw head will be in different positions.

And as per my retraction earlier, the steel damper rod with the taper [whick jamie needs to keep] is attached to the brass screw [which Jamie wants to replace], so he will have to talk to someone like Roger who can tell him if it is possible to seperate the 2 parts and recrimp them

[MacV2]

Easily solved.

He can have the lot & get them re-tapered.

£200 each seems a fair price to me.

[Jamoi]

I had another crack at getting these adjusters to turn last night, success! I think I just needed some some "man up" pills.

So although the slots are quite chewed up, atleast I have full adjustment now.

I will still get in contact with Roger at some point, just in case anyone else wants to change them. Also I'd like to know if I can cut the slot a bit deeper and re-flat the tops off.

But overall, happy I can fiddle now


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