cybercarl wrote:Disconnect the fuel lines and vacuum from the petcock and remove the petcock with the tank along with the single line that connect to the tank. It's bolted to the frame via a bracket. You wont loose any fuel apart from a couple of drips unless you have a faulty diaphragm inside the petcock
(:-})
Thanks Carl,
I think at this stage I will remove the fuel tank and the rear sub-frame and associated parts and see if the creaking is still there and if so it may be easier to locate with a better view in there.
Cheers
Cheers
Don
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Before you try that, get a friend. get a long screw driver. Get said friend to push up and down on the bike while you use the long screwdriver like a stethoscope, touch it against parts of the bike and listen with the handle of the screwdriver pressed to your ear.
You will be AMAZED how well this works, you will be able to hear everything, and when you find the noise source it will be deafening.
Budget storm gradually on the road to spangliness.
Well I have had success of sorts. Haven't fixed the problem yet, but at least I know where it is coming from now. I thought it was coming from the battery carrier box where it fits on the thin bar welded across the frame. So I sprayed all around that area with a can of WD40 with a tube nozzle fitted so I could direct the spray to the specific area. Alas -- no cigar there.
So then I proceeded to spray different portions of the rear suspension. First I sprayed around where the upper end of the spring fits to the top part of the rear shock. Again no cigar. I then sprayed around the top bolt and the area the top bolt goes through where it is attached to the frame behind the fuel tank -- wonder of wonders. No more noise when working the rear suspension up and down once I had sprayed this area with the WD40.
Thanks for ALL tips and advice given.
Cheers
Don
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cybercarl wrote:Exhaust does not need to come off. Best if you take the swingarm off with the linkages as it makes life easy to check things over and remove the shock, but not absolutely necessary. The same with the rear wheel. Basically you need to get the weight of the rear wheel/suspension so block and tackle will be OK, Paddock stand wont be OK as it still compresses the suspension. Make sure you loosen (un-torque) nuts and bolts first before hanging the bike or it will swing around. You may want to steady it with something under the sump.
(:-})
I did mine by just taking cans. off bit tight but can be done.
cybercarl wrote:Exhaust does not need to come off. Best if you take the swingarm off with the linkages as it makes life easy to check things over and remove the shock, but not absolutely necessary. The same with the rear wheel. Basically you need to get the weight of the rear wheel/suspension so block and tackle will be OK, Paddock stand wont be OK as it still compresses the suspension. Make sure you loosen (un-torque) nuts and bolts first before hanging the bike or it will swing around. You may want to steady it with something under the sump.
(:-})
I did mine by just taking cans. off bit tight but can be done.
Thanks for replies. I will report back if I find anything or need any advice on disassembly.
Cheers
Don
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Ok guys. About to tackle the rear linkage & I have rather a dumb question.
I am aware that I need to first loosen off the top bolt on the shock. How does one gain decent access to that top bolt & how loose does it need to be??
You may find it easier to remove the tank to access the bolt unless the little metal tab on the tank next to the top shock bolt is bent enough to get a socket on it.
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darkember wrote:Ok guys. About to tackle the rear linkage & I have rather a dumb question.
I am aware that I need to first loosen off the top bolt on the shock. How does one gain decent access to that top bolt & how loose does it need to be??
Whip the seat off & raise the rear of the tank or take it off completely. The rear tank mount masks the top shock nut, with it raised you can get a socket on it. How much you loosen it is up to you. Remember there is a baring in the top shock eye so whilst you are doing the rest of the checking & greasing it's worth checking that at well.
Making up since 2007, sometimes it's true...Honest...
darkember wrote:Ok guys. About to tackle the rear linkage & I have rather a dumb question.
I am aware that I need to first loosen off the top bolt on the shock. How does one gain decent access to that top bolt & how loose does it need to be??
Whip the seat off & raise the rear of the tank or take it off completely. The rear tank mount masks the top shock nut, with it raised you can get a socket on it. How much you loosen it is up to you. Remember there is a baring in the top shock eye so whilst you are doing the rest of the checking & greasing it's worth checking that at well.
This is an F2 model & atm the tank is off & the frame is still the way of the head of this bolt. Need to be a gynecologist to reach it.
tony.mon wrote:Pull it apart and have a look. It's the only way to be sure.
But to try to work out top or bottom, spray some wd40 at the top eyelt and see if the noise goes away.
it probably won't, but even if it does, pull the lower linkages off to check, as it can be serious if they are seized.
Thanks Tony, your idea worked a treat. Cheers.
Cheers
Don
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Wicky wrote:Undo when everything down below like the swingarm / linkage is out the way and then you can undo it alltogether to drop the shock out.
Grrr I only need to do the linkage now some say to loosen the top of the shock first now I am getting conflicting ways to do it. I do not need to remove the shock at all just service my rear linkage.
Simples: do I loosen the top of the shock prior to dealing with the linkage at the bottom????
