Calling all wiring Wizards (with photo)

[sirch345]

Yesterday I took a look at my rectifier on the Firestorm with the intentions of replacing it with a MOSFET unit. As you can see one of the blue connectors on the three stator wires have gone black, and the yellow wire going to it has turned brown
I'm assuming this must be due to heat, too much of it, but what would any of you experts think has caused this seeing as the other two are fine,



Chris.

[Ckennedy]

Certainly heat related. Check all your earth connections. Also see what voltage is going to the battery. Could also be an internal fault with the rev/rec so check what voltage you have there too

[AMCQ46]

the heat will be caused by a poor connection to the regulator spade terminal [surface contamination / corrosion/ low spring pressure etc], or inside the crimped joint. once you get some resistance, the high currents generate heat, which further degrades the joint and increases the resistance = more heat......... and so it continues till it melts.

you will need to cut back the wire and use new connector blades on the loom, also need to inspect the regulator blade to clean it and to see if the heat has damaged the housing too.

best use a new regulator incase heat damaged

[VTRDark]

It could very well be the connector, but that's one of the three stator wires so do a resistance check. Also check there's no shorting and grounding to earth on the stator wires.

Scroll down to test 5
http://vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=28771

Here's a link to a proper connector block if you going to be using a non MOSFET
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160884162617? ... EBIDX%3AIT

(:-})

[nt1980]

You can actually see the wire on the burnt connection doesnt look like its been crimped down properly so if a few strands connect but the rest dont this will heat these strands up and course this to happen this happens quite often in mine line of work but could all so be other things as per above

[firestorm_al]

Check the resistances between all the yellow wires to make sure your stator is OK.

I would definetly strip back the wired and make off the connector again.

You may have to extend the wires if they are too short and I would always try and solder the connectors and use heat shrink rather than use inuulated crimps.

This place is usefull for various types of automotive connectors - http://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457. ... _Connector

[VTRDark]

This place is usefull for various types of automotive connectors - http://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457. ... _Connector

Wayhay their back online. I noticed they where offline for some reason recently. Iv'e used this firm before. Very good service and quality bits and pieces. They even have the later dash connector blocks IIRC it's a small family run business which is another bonus IMO. I do like to support small businesses when I can.

(:-})

[tony.mon]

This place is usefull, another bonus. I do like to support small businesses when I can.

(:-})

In which case....
I'm looking for investors in an exhaust building project producing full stainless systems for Storms.
I'll need £3-5K to invest in a decent tig/mig welder, and a bit of stock 2" mandrel bends, plus some straight tube.
Investors will earn a dividend of a system of their own, and who knows, if we sell enough, maybe even their money back.
How much are you in for, Carl?
Anyone got an inheritance they have no use for?

[VTRDark]

Anyone got an inheritance they have no use for?

Mmm now there's an idea, If only I had inheritance. If only my parents had something to leave me.

Good idea though Tony. Get some backing and you could have a nice little business going there. Sounds like a way forward to me.

And so I don't feel like I'm thredjacking. It you do find any irregularity's in the stator readings the next step would be to check the stator windings themselves.

(:-})

[sirch345]

Sorry Tony, but I'm not in a financial position to help with your exhaust building project. I like your style though, if you don't ask you won't get

Many thanks to all who have given me advice, help, suggestions and links, all very much appreciated

Just to give you a little more on this topic. I replaced the non-finned rectifier back in 2007, and at the time fitted new crimp on connectors using a ratchet type terminal crimping tool. Out of the total five connection, this one connector (the black one now) is the only one to have given any problems.

I gathered the problem was due to too much heat, but unsure what has caused it, hopefully it is due to resistance as already been suggested. I had checked out the stator using a multi_meter, all three phases gave the same readings and none went to earth, so I'm hoping that is a good sign. The charging rate is within the workshop manual guide lines of 13.95V.

After some time thinking about this, I have now gone for a new MOSFET rectifier.

Check the resistances between all the yellow wires to make sure your stator is OK.

I would definetly strip back the wired and make off the connector again.

You may have to extend the wires if they are too short and I would always try and solder the connectors and use heat shrink rather than use inuulated crimps.

This place is usefull for various types of automotive connectors - http://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457. ... _Connector

That link is very useful I see they actually sell the MOSFET type water proof connectors that I hadn't been able to find anywhere in the UK

To solder or crimp is a very controversial subject so it appears when I've been looking into this before.
Some will only solder, and others say "only crimp", all I know is the bikes OEM wiring harness has all it's connectors crimped on, but of course that is probably cheaper and quicker to do, and saves a small amount of weight

You can actually see the wire on the burnt connection doesn't look like its been crimped down properly so if a few strands connect but the rest dont this will heat these strands up and course this to happen this happens quite often in mine line of work but could all so be other things as per above

Well spotted and a good suggestion, but the reason you can see the copper wire strands is due to the insulating shield being burnt away by the heat. I fitted all new blue connectors (as I mentioned above) using a ratchet crimping tool in 2007. I'm pretty sure there would have been no copper wiring showing there just like the other connectors show when I did this.
I tried to see if the (now black) connector would pull off, but it's still attached very well.

As suggested I will be cutting the wires back and making new connections when I get the new rectifier.

Thanks to all,


Chris.