Yes, I Really Did Buy It This Way

[popkat]

You think that's the worst tank to remove, try the 19litres version, just a little harder
I still think it sounds like the exhaust blowing, have you at least tried to tighten the exhaust to head nuts ?

[Big_Jim59]

You think that's the worst tank to remove, try the 19litres version, just a little harder
I still think it sounds like the exhaust blowing, have you at least tried to tighten the exhaust to head nuts ?

I'll do it before I do anything else just to see.

[Big_Jim59]

Just a thought that went through my mind, and I'm not sure if this could happen even. When you pulled out the old original Honda CCT's were the metal caps still on the end of them (they cover the rubber plungerhead) They can come off when removing the old CCT's, like I say I'm not sure if this is even possible, but I don't suppose the rear metal cap is still in there on the rear cylinder It might be worth having a look at the old CCT's,

Chris.

Both CCTs came out with the metal caps over the rubber. Good idea thought!

[Big_Jim59]

I tightened the exhaust header nuts and no joy. I did get a HUGE back fire on two separate start up attempts to start it but that was after I inadvertently left the kill switch off and quite possibly flooded the engine.

The tank is off and I pulled the rear valve cover. The valves have clearance and the timing checks out. It is nice and oily and there is no scoring on the cams. I have to look more closely at the rear cylinder head. I am going to run a compression test (as soon as my part comes in) and then I am going to pull the rear head. I guess I gotta make a pile of parts until I find something. My biggest fear, in pulling everything apart, is that the fix will be something stupidly simple. I don't think that's going to happen but it could be one of those "slap your forehead" moments too.

[sirch345]

Both CCTs came out with the metal caps over the rubber. Good idea thought!

Ah well, worth a shot I thought, although as I said not even 100% sure if that could happen.

What's this pulling it all apart again already have you now checked to make sure a copper crush ring is not missing at the rear cylinder head and exhaust header joint or may be it has split If it was split tightening it up wouldn't make much difference,

Chris.

[Big_Jim59]

Both CCTs came out with the metal caps over the rubber. Good idea thought!

Ah well, worth a shot I thought, although as I said not even 100% sure if that could happen.

What's this pulling it all apart again already have you now checked to make sure a copper crush ring is not missing at the rear cylinder head and exhaust header joint or may be it has split If it was split tightening it up wouldn't make much difference,

Chris.

I pulled the full exhaust system last night. I carefully examined each piece. There were no signs of exhaust leakage and the copper seals are in place. The good news is the exhaust flange nuts were not seized up. I am going to check the compression before going forward but the rear head is coming off after that. I am working on the assumption that there is a valve problem, maybe a broken valve spring. I heard a definite tapping coming from that area. It all has to come apart until I find "it."

Jim

[sirch345]

I pulled the full exhaust system last night. I carefully examined each piece. There were no signs of exhaust leakage and the copper seals are in place. The good news is the exhaust flange nuts were not seized up. I am going to check the compression before going forward but the rear head is coming off after that. I am working on the assumption that there is a valve problem, maybe a broken valve spring. I heard a definite tapping coming from that area. It all has to come apart until I find "it."

Jim

At least you now know the exhaust system is not the culprit before going any further.
I'd be the same, I'd have to find out what it is.

Good luck in finding the problem,

Chris.

[Big_Jim59]

This is completely unrelated but I have been starting the bike at intervals in order to try and asses the problem. Yesterday I had it cranked for less than a minute and when I killed it I looked back and those two enormous Two Brothers exhaust cans were trailing thin smoke up, out of both sides. They looked like a huge pare of Western six guns that had just got through firing a few rounds.

[sirch345]

due to hot exhaust gases hitting the cold exhaust system causing condensation I'd say

Chris.

[Big_Jim59]

due to hot exhaust gases hitting the cold exhaust system causing condensation I'd say

Chris.

Correct except that would be a VERY cold exhaust system! I just thought it looked cool as well a looking like the old girl had some life in her yet.

Oh. . .I just got my compression tester in and rushed out to the shop to try it out. Bear in mind these readings are taken with cold engine. The front cylinder showed a little over 100 psi and the rear cylinder showed 74psi.

[popkat]

I don't have the compression specs to hand but surely they should be up around the 180psi mark or more. the figures you have are poor, infact I'd say that low should be hard for the engine to start. by the way add 5% to your cold figures for a hot reading, so still not enough. I'd have to question the compression tester or the user. did you hold it WOT when you cranked it ?

[Big_Jim59]

I don't have the compression specs to hand but surely they should be up around the 180psi mark or more. the figures you have are poor, infact I'd say that low should be hard for the engine to start. by the way add 5% to your cold figures for a hot reading, so still not enough. I'd have to question the compression tester or the user. did you hold it WOT when you cranked it ?

No, I didn't hold it open when cranking. I forgot that bit but it is immaterial at this point.

I found the problem. I pulled the head and began nosing around. I found that if you turn the crank one way and then turn it slightly the other you can push the piston down with a resounding thunk. The big end is shot. It might just need a used motor. I must ponder this question. I could probably put new bearing shells in it without splitting the cases but I could never be sure if the crank didn't have a flat spot and I could never be sure of why it happened in the first place. A crapped out big end is not something normal on a Honda with 32,000 miles.

Jim

[VTRDark]

Yikes that is not what we wanted to hear. Strange noise though for a big end failure. Maybe a little furthur investigation to confirm it is needed. Whip the sump off and see what you can see/find.

As Tony would say "It's an upgrade opportunity" Unless your prepared for a total strip down and rebuild then yes it's time to look out for a good used engine. It would most likely be cheaper and certainly quicker to do an engine swap. It can be done in a day at a push as long as all the engine mount bolts come out with no bother. You could then sell any bits and bobs off the old engine to recuperate some funds.

(:-})

[sirch345]

AH NO, that's definitely not what we wanted to hear Jim. A good job you didn't rev it anymore than you did, I know you said it didn't seem safe to do so, you were right. I would say the same as Carl, it didn't sound like a big end knock that you usually get from a failed big end, although I know we're only going by the video sound as we said before. Small end

I have a feeling compression is supposed to be around 164lbs per sq inch when carried out as per the manual instructions on a good engine, although I don't worry to much about figures so long as they are not to far off, I always think it's more important to take note of what the difference is between the cylinders.

Anyway don't lose heart, get over this problem and you should have a nice bike that will be good

Chris.

[Big_Jim59]

I think, since it is possible to get the offending piston and rod out by accessing the rod cap through the sump, that is my next step. At this point I can't hurt anything. It might be a small end failure and that would be strange and a new one on me. It will have to wait until Friday.

That is one HUGE piston isn't it?

As luck would have it I do have a castle socket to fit the frame nuts. I bought it for another Honda engine project years ago.