Cush drives
Cush drives
Just ground my drive chain off - it's had it with seized links and it's well stretched so as I suspected it needs a complete new set.
However also found left hand side hub seal gone as well so replace also.
Now to the question - should the pairs of Cush drives actually be connected together? Ie each segment pair? Mine are all separate individual items.
Brian
However also found left hand side hub seal gone as well so replace also.
Now to the question - should the pairs of Cush drives actually be connected together? Ie each segment pair? Mine are all separate individual items.
Brian
Re: Cush drives
they should be in pairs, but its only to help assembly, has no effect in operation
AMcQ
Re: Cush drives
Re cush drives...Try the indent test, use a thumbnail to dig in, If it has some give then all is well, if it is rock hard...change them.
IMO if your changing C&S then change them any way.
They will go hard over time & hard isn't always a good thing...
IMO if your changing C&S then change them any way.
They will go hard over time & hard isn't always a good thing...
Making up since 2007, sometimes it's true...Honest...
Re: Cush drives
Thanks fellas - it's a replace - might as well
- rollingthunderx2
- Posts: 506
- Joined: Fri Mar 04, 2011 12:12 am
- Location: Hawick, scottish borders on A7
Re: Cush drives
Wheel bearing kits and seals
http://www.pyramidparts.co.uk/search?q=vtr1000
http://www.pyramidparts.co.uk/search?q=vtr1000
- agentpineapple
- Posts: 15124
- Joined: Sat Mar 26, 2011 9:16 pm
Re: Cush drives
you can get a set of pattern cush drive rubbers on ebay for £27....
when I fitted a new c/s to my yellow bike, I also fitted new Honda cush drive rubbers...£50, but I can't really see the difference between Hondas and a pattern part, it's only rubber after all.
i'll be buying pattern next time

when I fitted a new c/s to my yellow bike, I also fitted new Honda cush drive rubbers...£50, but I can't really see the difference between Hondas and a pattern part, it's only rubber after all.
i'll be buying pattern next time
HEY YOU GUYS!!!!!!
Re: Cush drives
In my experience, when it comes to rubber (ooh err missus lol) as in motor vehicle parts you get what you pay for, the quality of the rubber is not something you can see with your eyes,agentpineapple wrote:you can get a set of pattern cush drive rubbers on ebay for £27....![]()
when I fitted a new c/s to my yellow bike, I also fitted new Honda cush drive rubbers...£50, but I can't really see the difference between Hondas and a pattern part, it's only rubber after all.
i'll be buying pattern next time
Chris.
Re: Cush drives
It is when gimp suits are involved.
This is where a rattle gun comes in handy. I think you may be right about the torque Chris
Yep 54nm / 40Ib ft page 7.0 blow up picture under Engine removal/installation in the Honda workshop manual.
(:-})

This is where a rattle gun comes in handy. I think you may be right about the torque Chris
Yep 54nm / 40Ib ft page 7.0 blow up picture under Engine removal/installation in the Honda workshop manual.

(:-})
==============================Enter the Darkside
- rollingthunderx2
- Posts: 506
- Joined: Fri Mar 04, 2011 12:12 am
- Location: Hawick, scottish borders on A7
Re: Cush drives
If original is best why is there a thriving industry for replacement upgradesfor Audi suspension bushes...: ))
Re: Cush drives
Probably due to many of us being brainwashed into thinking we're saving money, when in actual fact in the long run it will cost you more. Of course there will be other factors that come into play here as well, like what you can aford etc, but I would say that is one of the main reasons, we think we're getting a bargain just because it's cheaper.rollingthunderx2 wrote:If original is best why is there a thriving industry for replacement upgradesfor Audi suspension bushes...: ))
I'll give you an example, some years ago I used to buy after market replacement CV boots (rubber seals for Constant Velocity drive shaft journals for those who are wondering what I'm on about) for one of my old cars at the time. Everytime the mot came around, on my pre-mot inspection I had to replace one or two CV boots. Anyone familiar with this job will know it's one you could do without.
By the third replacement I bit-the-bullet and paid the extra for a genuine Ford CV boot. You could tell by feel the rubber used was more flexible than the aftermarket product. The aftermarket product in comparison felt more plastic IMO too.
12mths later on my pre-mot inspection, I was more than happy to find the genuine CV boot had not split, in actual fact it was good at the following mot and for the rest of the time I owned that car.
It's your bike, and your money, so you make the choice, all I'm pointing out is cheapest is not always the best in my experience. And lets face it Cush Drive rubbers don't have an easy life

Chris.
Re: Cush drives
+1 on that Chris. I bought some after market fork gaiters for the FS1E I was building my son, during the rebuild process and they had rotted through within the year and before the bike was on the road. I got them from a well known Yamaha spares supplier - Jim Patch, and he then sold me a 2nd hand pair of pucker Yamaha items which lasted the life of the bike and always cleaned up like new.
Cheapest isn't always best.
Cheapest isn't always best.
Carpe diem, quam minimum credula postero
F3, 954 USD front, K Tech springs, Braced swinger, Ohlins shock, Six spoke Mockesini wheels, Harris rearsets, QaT, Flywheel diet!, A&L stacks, stick coils, K&N, FP Ti jets, Mori pipe's [colour]
F3, 954 USD front, K Tech springs, Braced swinger, Ohlins shock, Six spoke Mockesini wheels, Harris rearsets, QaT, Flywheel diet!, A&L stacks, stick coils, K&N, FP Ti jets, Mori pipe's [colour]