Drive chain tension

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artee
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Drive chain tension

Post by artee »

Hi
Should the amount of up and down slack in a chain be set with or without being sat on the bike?

Roger
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popkat
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Re: Drive chain tension

Post by popkat »

30-35mm Not sitting on bike.

Better slightly loose than too tight, so as long as it doesn't hit the exhaust link pipe your ok :thumbup:
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templ8
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Re: Drive chain tension

Post by templ8 »

Without sitting on it and resting on the side stand, not on a paddock stand.
Measure halfway between the front and rear sprockets.
Measurement is up and down combined, so if you can pull the chain down 15mm and up 15mm you have 30mm of slack.

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8541Hawk
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Re: Drive chain tension

Post by 8541Hawk »

popkat wrote:30-35mm Not sitting on bike.

Better slightly loose than too tight, so as long as it doesn't hit the exhaust link pipe your ok :thumbup:
a big +1 to this...... it does make a difference :wink:
I don't even both to measure anymore, with the bike either on the side stand but the job is easier on a paddock stand, just push down on the chain at the link pipe (no real pressure just take the slack out) and it should just clear the pipe by around 5mm.

A "quick and dirty" test is to push the bike with the engine off, if you hear the chain running over the rear sprocket, it is too tight. :thumbup:
Loud pipes don't save lives, knowing how to ride your bike will save your life.
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sirch345
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Re: Drive chain tension

Post by sirch345 »

popkat wrote:30-35mm Not sitting on bike.

Better slightly loose than too tight, so as long as it doesn't hit the exhaust link pipe your ok :thumbup:
+2
I run mine slightly on the loose side too, these big V twins will stretch the chain for a pass-time if you run them on the tight side. I find a Scottoiler also helps in making the chain and sprockets last longer,

Chris.
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artee
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Re: Drive chain tension

Post by artee »

Thanks chaps.
I've always wondered if you should be sat on the bike or not.
Ok to use Abba stand to do tension?
I would have replied earlier, but I forgot to subscribe to the thread. This is the only forum that you have to actually subscribe to the thread, all the others do it automatically.

Thanks

Roger
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popkat
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Re: Drive chain tension

Post by popkat »

On Abba stand suspension will be at full extension so chain will be a little more slack, I'd say set it at 35mm at the tightest spot then take it off the stand and measure same place on the side stand, if it's not too tight you then know exactly how to set it on the Abba every time if your after being precise, but what I said earlier re link pipe still applies, you'll probably find 35mm is close to it..
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2014 CRMC Post classic Superbike champion.
2014 CRMC Post classic senior production champion. On a Suzuki Katana 1100
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Watty
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Re: Drive chain tension

Post by Watty »

popkat wrote:30-35mm Not sitting on bike.

Better slightly loose than too tight, so as long as it doesn't hit the exhaust link pipe your ok :thumbup:
+3 :thumbup:
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bazzashadow
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Re: Drive chain tension

Post by bazzashadow »

artee wrote:Thanks chaps.
I've always wondered if you should be sat on the bike or not.
Ok to use Abba stand to do tension?
I would have replied earlier, but I forgot to subscribe to the thread. This is the only forum that you have to actually subscribe to the thread, all the others do it automatically.

Thanks

Roger
I don`t have to subscribe
if I post a topic or reply to a topic it automatically subscribes me to it, so I would check your setting
the only thing I don`t like about this forum is how you have to post pictures :( , so I don`t bother :lol:
(but would like to sometimes, like over forums I`m a member of)
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artee
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Re: Drive chain tension

Post by artee »

Subscription now sorted I hope.

Roger
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Cadbury64
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Re: Drive chain tension

Post by Cadbury64 »

I'm going to challenge the statement that tensioning should be done on the sidestand but not a paddock stand.

The stock VTR spring is over-preloaded even on the lightest stock setting, that means there is no static sag with the bike unweighted, or in other words the suspension is at full extension whether it is resting on a sidestand or a paddock stand, so no difference in chain tension.

Once you fit an aftermarket shock and adjust the sag, then there may be a small amount of compression on a paddock stand that might not be present on the sidestand.
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popkat
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Re: Drive chain tension

Post by popkat »

Cadbury64 wrote:I'm going to challenge the statement that tensioning should be done on the sidestand but not a paddock stand.

The stock VTR spring is over-preloaded even on the lightest stock setting, that means there is no static sag with the bike unweighted, or in other words the suspension is at full extension whether it is resting on a sidestand or a paddock stand, so no difference in chain tension.

Once you fit an aftermarket shock and adjust the sag, then there may be a small amount of compression on a paddock stand that might not be present on the sidestand.

There is a small amount of static sag, but not really enough to notice much difference, but as springs get older and with more use the sag may increase, we don't know if Rogers bike has a standard shock or not, also some may find it easier to do the job on an Abba stand as you can see the adjuster easier... This is why I said if doing it on an Abba stand re check it on the side stand once then you have a reference, but again as I did say earlier it will make little difference.

As for a normal Paddock stand there would be no difference on these as either side or paddock stand the bike will be sitting down on it's own weight...Abba stands mount at the swingarm pivot so the wheel is hanging in the breeze :wink:


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2014 CRMC Post classic Superbike champion.
2014 CRMC Post classic senior production champion. On a Suzuki Katana 1100
My bikes, Firestorm, Suzuki GSX-s1000 Katana, VFR800Fi. Projects, 1986 popup Katana, 3 XJ600’s
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artee
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Re: Drive chain tension

Post by artee »

Thanks
Bike is completely standard apart from manual ccts.
Roger
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8541Hawk
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Re: Drive chain tension

Post by 8541Hawk »

Cadbury64 wrote:I'm going to challenge the statement that tensioning should be done on the sidestand but not a paddock stand.

The stock VTR spring is over-preloaded even on the lightest stock setting, that means there is no static sag with the bike unweighted, or in other words the suspension is at full extension whether it is resting on a sidestand or a paddock stand, so no difference in chain tension.

Once you fit an aftermarket shock and adjust the sag, then there may be a small amount of compression on a paddock stand that might not be present on the sidestand.
The one bit overlooked (I am also a set it on the paddock stand guy) is that when you lift the rear of the bike, you shift weight forward.
This should unload the rear shock. Now the rear suspension should be fully extended which is the perfect place to set your chain slack as that is as loose as things will ever get.

Then check to see if it hits the link pipe........ easy as can be :thumbup:
Loud pipes don't save lives, knowing how to ride your bike will save your life.
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Re: Drive chain tension

Post by tony.mon »

It also depends on the link pipe design if it's an aftermarket one.
And it's OK if you can hear the chain clicking the link pipe when wheeling it backwards, but it should clear pushing it forwards.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
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