I've got a wobble on

[VTR Phoenix]

Steering head bearing issues will show up while riding in a straight line. Cant remember which is which but for eg too loose will cause the head to shake/steer to one side at slow speed and too tight will do the same thing at high speed. If your not suffering any of these then I would say its not the head bearings. Straight line hard braking and if you get a knock/clunk as you apply the brakes then head bearings. Also check the stem is seated correctly. I had a case where the po had left the old bottom race in and put a new one on top plus the bearings and it poked out the bottom of the headstock.

Check your wheel/tyre is on the right way (arrow pointing toward wheel rotation)

Wheel bearings as cornering will highlight any movement more than going in a straight line.

Check your forks are not bent

If its wallowey (is that a word?) then forks could need a rebuild or settings played with. Maybe set to factory if they are not already.

Also check the tightness of the wheel and the pinch bolts. Make sure the axel is not loose.

[VTR Phoenix]

One other thing, check the rear wheel is on straight.

[john306]

One other thing, check the rear wheel is on straight.

Rear wheel on straight, I've had the string and steel rule out and it's spot on

Your other points....
No wobble or knocks/clunks in a straight line, either accelerating or braking.
i'll check the stem asap.
Wheel tyres all on correctly.
Wheel bearings brand new, it was happening to old ones also.
Forks bent, incorrect settings, worn out?? I'll read up and check.
Same with wheel tightness,bolts, axle, although I've had the lot apart while powder coating wheel/new tyres/ bearings and it was the same previously.

Thanks for your input

[VTR Phoenix]

When you had the wheels powder coated did you make sure all mating surfaces were clean and free from powder coat including where the discs mount? Are they also balanced properly?

[VTR Phoenix]

Stock settings for front
Spring pre-load (top spanner adjuster) 4th groove aligned with the top of the hex on the fork bolt.
Damping (screwdriver slot on top) Turn fully clockwise till it stops then turn anti clockwise until the punch mark on the adjuster lines up with the reference mark on the directional arrow.

Rear Shock
You need the C spanner position 2 from the top is standard.
Damping is via the screw at the bottom, this is set exactly the same way as on the forks (see above)

[john306]

When you had the wheels powder coated did you make sure all mating surfaces were clean and free from powder coat including where the discs mount? Are they also balanced properly?

All matting surfaces were clean before i fitted everything back on..
And it went to a local tyre fitting service and they fitted new valves and balanced wheels, hopefully they did it right. But like I said it had the wobble before.

[john306]

Stock settings for front
Spring pre-load (top spanner adjuster) 4th groove aligned with the top of the hex on the fork bolt.
Damping (screwdriver slot on top) Turn fully clockwise till it stops then turn anti clockwise until the punch mark on the adjuster lines up with the reference mark on the directional arrow.

Rear Shock
You need the C spanner position 2 from the top is standard.
Damping is via the screw at the bottom, this is set exactly the same way as on the forks (see above)

Thanks again, I'll get that set up and tested hopefully in the next week if work doesn't get too much in the way.

[sirch345]

If you're going to replace the steering head bearings, you just as well replace them with taper roller bearings, although don't use the recommended torque settings for standard s/head bearings, as those are for original OEM ball bearings type.

All Balls in this link will do the job:-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALL-BALLS-STE ... SwPe1T~zLd

It might pay you to have a look at yours first, you may find a previous owner has already changed them for taper roller bearings, in which case I doubt they'll be worn out,

Chris.

Chris.

I'm sure it was mentioned they have taper head bearings already fitted. Will these generally last years and years then considering the bike has covered very very little mileage over the last 10 years?

Yes, due to the larger surface contact area of taper roller bearings, normally going on they will last a lot longer than the standard OEM ball bearing type, especially if they have only covered very little mileage over the last 10yrs,

Chris.

[john306]

Yes, due to the larger surface contact area of taper roller bearings, normally going on they will last a lot longer than the standard OEM ball bearing type, especially if they have only covered very little mileage over the last 10yrs,

Chris.

Hi Chris, I've found the ad that states "Tapered Steering head bearings and Cam Chain Tensioners fitted" how long ago that was i don't know but according to previous MOTs the bike has only covered around 5000ish miles over the last 10 years, the last few years have been sorn.
Hopefully that's one thing I can discount, I'll work my way through the other suggestions to try to get this resolved.

[VTRDark]

and Cam Chain Tensioners fitted

New autos fitted then. Get them stoppered or fit manuals especially as the the bike has been sitting with a SORN.

Could this wobble simply be because your pushing to hard. Is it on the front or the rear?

[john306]

and Cam Chain Tensioners fitted

New autos fitted then. Get them stoppered or fit manuals especially as the the bike has been sitting with a SORN.

Could this wobble simply be because your pushing to hard. Is it on the front or the rear?

No not pushing too hard at all, I wouldn't dare to as it's very noticable even say 30mph through a bend where double that would be ok ish.
Hard to say where it's coming from exactly, it just feels like a wobble and general looseness like something isn't tight, but I've checked wheels/discs/calipers and any other nuts/bolts I can see, but they are all tight.

Ccts are definately manuals.

[VTR Phoenix]

Is it over vibey? If not then engine mounts should be fine.

I'm still leaning towards fork issues

[Wicky]

Yes, due to the larger surface area of taper roller bearings, normally going on they will last a lot longer than the standard OEM ball bearing type, especially if they have only covered very little mileage over the last 10yrs,

Chris.

Hi Chris, I've found the ad that states "Tapered Steering head bearings and Cam Chain Tensioners fitted" how long ago that was i don't know but according to previous MOTs the bike has only covered around 5000ish miles over the last 10 years, the last few years have been sorn.
Hopefully that's one thing I can discount, I'll work my way through the other suggestions to try to get this resolved.

But have the head bearing been done correctly

My translap when I bought it had had tapered head bearing installed and within a couple of thousand miles went very weird - like riding in ruts and hard to steer. They hadn't been installed correctly so promptly bunged some standard OEM in and good as new. My VTR still has the same head bearings in and that's done 60+K - probably don''t wheelie it enough :-)

So try getting the headbearings looked at / and replaced if necessary and don't assume cos they've been done that they are alright. Esp when the torque settings for tapered is significantly different to normal.

[john306]

But have the head bearing been done correctly

My translap when I bought it had had tapered head bearing installed and within a couple of thousand miles went very weird - like riding in ruts and hard to steer. They hadn't been installed correctly so promptly bunged some standard OEM in and good as new. My VTR still has the same head bearings in and that's done 60+K - probably don''t wheelie it enough :-)

So try getting the headbearings looked at / and replaced if necessary and don't assume cos they've been done that they are alright. Esp when the torque settings for tapered is significantly different to normal.

Wicky, your......."very weird -like riding in ruts and hard to steer." Is very accurate, even though the steering is not tight at all, just harder to get back out of the ruts, and only when going through bends, no problem on straights.
Maybe head bearings have just come back into the equation.
Cheers

[fabiostar]

if the bikes been sitting a few years im gona blame steering head bearings. they can go dry and notch up if the bikes not been moved at all. take them out and at least grease them and spin them round ..

id also the same with the divve when i bought it, new bearings and it was parked for four years when i bought it and the head bearings were scrap and i had to change them.