Hi all,
Have had the engine out to do some bits n bobs, i was wondering when i put it all back in. Are there any common snags when re filling the cooling system?
I noticed last night there is a bolt on the front pot that looks like a bleeder ? (have yet to look it up in the manual)
Any of you rebuild guru`s got any tips etc for re filling the cooling system.
Seems with twin rads and all the link pipes air locks could be a problem ?
Cheers
Steve R
Cooling System.
Cooling System.
sh1t HAPPENS !!!
Hi Steve,
I've not done that job yet, although according to the Haynes manual there is a bolt on the front of the front cylinder jacket that's usually removed for draining down.
I have however been looking into getting some anti-freeze/coolant because mine is well over due a change. What I have found out though, is you need to use a silicate free AF/coolant, as apparently all Honda's can suffer with premature water pump failure if you don't. The reason is because silicate based AF/coolants are abrasive and will damage the water pump seals over time
You may be well aware of that above, but just in case you didn't know you do now
When I do mine I'm going for Honda's own 50/50 mix, 50% coolant and 50% distilled water
Chris.
I've not done that job yet, although according to the Haynes manual there is a bolt on the front of the front cylinder jacket that's usually removed for draining down.
I have however been looking into getting some anti-freeze/coolant because mine is well over due a change. What I have found out though, is you need to use a silicate free AF/coolant, as apparently all Honda's can suffer with premature water pump failure if you don't. The reason is because silicate based AF/coolants are abrasive and will damage the water pump seals over time
You may be well aware of that above, but just in case you didn't know you do now
When I do mine I'm going for Honda's own 50/50 mix, 50% coolant and 50% distilled water
Chris.
Drain as Haynes suggest but after fill, run engine with right radiator cap off and squeeze coolant pipes on both rads to move the fluid about. You will find on running the engine the level drops, top up the right rad then after rad full top up the overflow tank. Use silicate free coolant as suggested. Silkolene is a common seller.
I see myself as a sensitive intelligent man but with the heart of a clown that causes me to **ck things up right at that crucial moment........'Jim Morrison'
Hi all,
Thnks for the tips, i had read about the coolant on here somewhere, but a reminder always helps (cheers chris
)
I have a honda dealer up the road so what sort of ££ do they knock this stuff out at ?
Silkolene is also an option (tried and tested from my enduro days)
What seal normaly gets "eaten" then on the waterpump? the lil rubber band type one around the pump casing or one behind the impeller ?
So many questions sorry...
The thing is before i took the engine out it was blowing coolant out up my leg and right boot.not gallons but enough to see.
Only when moving along , when i was out on the road.
I could not duplicate in the garage, even when i ran it for ages and ages and idled it and reved it !!
I checked all the hoses etc
Which only left the rad....i have just bought a new pair from a breaker (the left was a bit bent from a prior "involantary dismount")
So i am hoping that this will cure it but now this "silly cat" problem
ads a new dimension.
More input, oh mighty storm gurus
Cheers
Steve R
Thnks for the tips, i had read about the coolant on here somewhere, but a reminder always helps (cheers chris
)I have a honda dealer up the road so what sort of ££ do they knock this stuff out at ?
Silkolene is also an option (tried and tested from my enduro days)
What seal normaly gets "eaten" then on the waterpump? the lil rubber band type one around the pump casing or one behind the impeller ?
So many questions sorry...
The thing is before i took the engine out it was blowing coolant out up my leg and right boot.not gallons but enough to see.
Only when moving along , when i was out on the road.
I could not duplicate in the garage, even when i ran it for ages and ages and idled it and reved it !!
I checked all the hoses etc
Which only left the rad....i have just bought a new pair from a breaker (the left was a bit bent from a prior "involantary dismount")
So i am hoping that this will cure it but now this "silly cat" problem
ads a new dimension.More input, oh mighty storm gurus
Cheers
Steve R
sh1t HAPPENS !!!
Steve, do what I did, do a google search on coolant/anti-freeze for motorbikes, you'll be surprised what's been written about itBIG STEVE wrote: So i am hoping that this will cure it but now this "silly cat" problem
I'm not sure which seals exactly get damaged on the water pump, but my guess is any that are in contact with the coolant if you're using the wrong stuff.
Not sure which year your bike is, but the water pump is known for occassionally loosing a small amount of coolant, that's why on the later models they fitted a drain hose to the water pump housing, so it was taken down and out at the bottom of the engine
Chris.
Hi chris,
I am running a "vintage" 1997 FV (in red - of course !)
I have checked the coolant i use Halfrauds - premixed coolant and it states it has silicate free corrosion inhibitors ?
I spose i will have to wait till its all back together and hope the new rads cure it.
Fingers crossed,as coolant on the right hand side of your back tyre makes for some interesting cornering
Cheers All
Steve R
I am running a "vintage" 1997 FV (in red - of course !)
I have checked the coolant i use Halfrauds - premixed coolant and it states it has silicate free corrosion inhibitors ?
I spose i will have to wait till its all back together and hope the new rads cure it.
Fingers crossed,as coolant on the right hand side of your back tyre makes for some interesting cornering
Cheers All
Steve R
sh1t HAPPENS !!!