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That's a massive assumption wee fella!

Yeah no sh1t!

You bloody blue owners. What even are you?

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Rode it...

Came home, dropped the oil, changed the filter, put me bling oil lines on (finally fitted a set to MY bike... ) Fresh oil. Balanced the carbs...

Gave up & went in...finish some jobs on the morrow...

MacV,

Can you post a pic of the bling oil lines?

Tell us about them please.

I have approached a few companies here but they don't seem to interested!

kenmoore wrote:MacV,

Can you post a pic of the bling oil lines?

Tell us about them please.

I have approached a few companies here but they don't seem to interested!

Kenmoore, I take an old rusty set to my local Pirtex depot, where a nice bloke by the name of Darren chops off the end fittings & then replaces the missing bit with new thicker walled steel pipe & the bottom bit with new high temp rated braided hose.

http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 60#p348491

Basically it's all new bar the fittings that attach to the motor & oil cooler. They do need to be machined as the pipe is thicker & then he welds/ brazes it all up. A coat of paint ( which scratches really easily...) & £85 later...Bling Hoses...

I do know that another member ask in a different Pirtex depot & was quoted £120 for the same thing.

I don't have any spare sets at the moment but will have two old sets to be done in a couple of weeks.

If you want a set... I'd be happy to send out but the postage may kill the deal.

Try a local to you Pirtex, although I do realise that might be 200 km's away...

Finished off from yesterday...

Checked for oil leaks...all good

Changed the clutch fluid...

Cleaned & lubed the chain...

Checked tyre PSI...

Re fitted faring ect...


Look away now Tony...









































...& polished it....

Not as bad as 200k's, only 150K rounds trip.

I will give them a call first.

We have another crowd out here called Enzed and they are not interested.

The chrome on mine is getting a bit tatty.

Warmed the engine up, set idle at 1800rpm, then twiddled my fuel screws....

....Decided I have no idea what I'm doing despite reading the (excellent) carb tuning guide a few times, so gave up!

The revs don't drop below idle or hang after "the blip test" so must be near to OK.

Then thrashed the ferkin nuts of it in 2nd & 3rd round some tight twisties... all in the name of testing my twiddles of course

Warmed the engine up, set idle at 1800rpm, then twiddled my fuel screws....

The reason for higher revs is to help hear the change in exhaust note and prevent the engine from cutting out when tweaking the screw. Sometimes less revs is better but there is more chance of the bike cutting out. It starts to be pain having to restart the bike all the time when down tweaking screws and trying to count turns.

...Decided I have no idea what I'm doing despite reading the (excellent) carb tuning guide a few times, so gave up!

Get hands on and play with things. It's the best way to learn and understand what effects what and how it makes the bike behave.

I like to break things down into three circuits. Mains, Slide/Needle height and Pilot circuit including the fuel screw. Think of the fuel screw as fine adjustment for the pilot jet. Then preferably tune starting from the top and working your way through. What you have to remember is that changing one thing has an effect on another, so for example if you richened up the mains, this then richens up the top end of the needle height as it tapers into that circuit or to put it another way transitions from one circuit to another. Adjustment in the slide/needle height, with being the middle circuit, will then have an effect on either side at the mains and pilot circuit. Adjustments in Pilot circuit is slightly different though as it doesn't just have an effect on the transitional area of the slide but tapers off all the way through all three circuits, but by the time it gets to the mains it's only a trickle and barley noticeable.

(:-})

Had a little play with the settings on the ohlins shock and feels better now
10 clicks out rebound
9 clicks out compression .
Still needs a little tweaking.
Gave the forks a tweak too feels better but I might increase the air gap to 120mm as 110mm was a lot better than 90mm

Replaced stock ccts with manual ones, took it for a spin, she sounds lovely now, well pleased

Lysy wrote:Replaced stock ccts with manual ones, took it for a spin, she sounds lovely now, well pleased

Another big repair bill saved

Got the new carriers from Braketech, so I proceeded to disassemble the blades from the GSX-R carriers and reassembling them onto the new carriers. I then mounted them up to the Dymag carbon front rim....... light does not begin to describe how little the combo weighs. Can't wait to mount it up and take it for a ride....... (though that likely won't happen until next spring as fitting the rims will be a winter project)

mik_str wrote:Got the new carriers from Braketech, so I proceeded to disassemble the blades from the GSX-R carriers and reassembling them onto the new carriers. I then mounted them up to the Dymag carbon front rim....... light does not begin to describe how little the combo weighs. Can't wait to mount it up and take it for a ride....... (though that likely won't happen until next spring as fitting the rims will be a winter project)

any luck on the custom spacers needed Mik?

my next venture after i get these cams in the track bike is light weight wheels. i rode my friends pretty raced out R6 around the track a few times, next track day he shows up with forged mag marchesini's on and i couldnt beleieve the difference. it felt like he added 20 hp and cut tons of weight off the bike. i was able to flick it in to turns so much later, it stopped alot quicker and accel was improved to. quite a dramatic difference.

what kid of pads are you gonna be using with the braketech's? i heard they need special pads to bite properly

will be using Ferodo XRACs, as recommended by Jeff at Braketech (already have them on hand). In so far as fitment is concerned, I am using 07 600RR triples (and wheel is for same), I expect it should mount up rather easily. Only possible complication I can see is that I am using 05 ZX-10R forks, so there may be a slight difference in the width of the lower leg.... Rear will be a bit more of a challenge as the 600RR uses a 25mm axle.... will look at various options... hopefully it won't be too crazy....

I did some quick calculations and this should help me drop an additional 10 lbs of rotating weight compared to my already light PVM magnesium rims.... free hp Have read that braking is wicked too....