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They both are looking pretty good Maybe both need the needles dropped by a clip in the mid range and Lyodie is looking really strong from 8k on up. Mains look good

kev64 wrote:I serviced my calipers, wish id taken them full y apart now as i could have
had similiar results, my brakes work great, but i bet the improvement from a full strip, seal/piston clean is night and day !!

If your brake caliper pistons are all moving freely Kev, I doubt you have a night and day difference from a full strip down.

The benefits from a full strip down are:-

(1) any corrosion/rust on whole surface area of the pistons can be seen/removed.

(2) seals can be removed and inspected, plus any corrosion under the seals removed (none under mine).

(2) it makes cleaning the calipers and pistons easier.

Anyone in the future doing a full caliper service, if you pump the pistons out so they touch each other in the centre of the brake caliper, once the caliper is split, by holding the caliper in a vice (protected by a cloth) you can wiggle the pistons out by hand. If you don't pump the pistons out beforehand, you will most likely need a caliper piston removal tool to get them out.

mik_str wrote:
and btw, caliper looks awesome!

Cheers Micky

AMCQ46 wrote:Dyno graphs comparing lloydies new engine with my bike

Green line is lloydies hig comp gas flowed bike

Red is my bike with std headers and Remus gp cans

Blue is my bike with Ti big bore race system ( but not tried to jet it yet)

that explains it Al, I couldn't workout what kermit was doing on your dyno chart in the "Dyno Chart" section,

Chris.

(2) it makes cleaning the calipers and pistons easier.

And all internal calliper channels including the one that runs from one side to the other where the rubber O rings are can be flushed and cleaned out of any gunge.

Well I thought I had a slight cooling system leak but it's looking like some weeping oil from somewhere. I'm thinking it's either a build up behind the sprocket cover form the Scottoiler or I have a leaky output seal. I did notice a little drip around the gear selector by the seal Pain in the butt job that is going to be be for a poxy little rubber seal.



(:-})

Carl, I had a leak on Drooper that was running down the stand...thought it was the clutch slave leaking...turned out it was a weep from the rear CCT, tracking across the rear of the lump & down the stand...

A gasket fixed it.

my rear cct weeps as well....

agentpineapple wrote:my rear cct weeps as well....

I'd weep if you were sitting on me...

Whip it off & stick a gasket on & a bit of splurge on the threads for good measure.

that's a carl job.....

No weeps from my rear CCT it has plenty of sealant on.

Marty's leaks because I got frustrated with the bulkiness or should that be fruglyness of Ade's tensioners and most of sealant that I applied got on my hand when trying to fit and wind the tensioner out before tightening back up and IIRC the weather was sh1t and we were pushed for time that day so I left it. I'm well aware of that and it's a job that has been on the cards for a while now. Paper gaskets wont help when it comes to the thread and the poxy rubber O rings that don't work properly and are only there for show just get in the way. In future I will rip them off first. The problem is as one tightens up the tensioner bolt the O ring squishes out the side of the locknut and splits. It's either cheap rubber or don't fit into a machined recess.

(:-})

Tried the factory pro needles with Tony's settings but it's way to lean at 3.5k so I'll raise them two clips and try again . I also fitted my modded air box lid so that didn't help either .

Also today I supervised Virt changing his brake pads and gave him the bad news once again that he has warped discs due to a disc lock .
The pulsing was that bad the hole of the front end was vibrating and the front wheel felt like a fifty pence piece !!!
How that lad is still alive goes beyond belief



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Removed the spacer from the shock, I was having to clamp down really tight on the top nut (which I can't find a torque value for) to adjust preload without spinning the whole unit, as with the spacer the shock goes past the ridge that keeps it straight. Anyway, may as well see what it's like without, forks (Roger'd) are dropped 5mm and it seems very flickable with the spacer, maybe too much. We shall see when the weather dries up, probably next weekend

Lloydie, how was the disc lock causing warpage?

TravisZack wrote:Removed the spacer from the shock, I was having to clamp down really tight on the top nut (which I can't find a torque value for) to adjust preload without spinning the whole unit, as with the spacer the shock goes past the ridge that keeps it straight. Anyway, may as well see what it's like without, forks (Roger'd) are dropped 5mm and it seems very flickable with the spacer, maybe too much. We shall see when the weather dries up, probably next weekend

Lloydie, how was the disc lock causing warpage?

Think some nob tried to pinch it


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cybercarl wrote:

(2) it makes cleaning the calipers and pistons easier.

And all internal calliper channels including the one that runs from one side to the other where the rubber O rings are can be flushed and cleaned out of any gunge.

Well I thought I had a slight cooling system leak but it's looking like some weeping oil from somewhere. I'm thinking it's either a build up behind the sprocket cover form the Scottoiler or I have a leaky output seal. I did notice a little drip around the gear selector by the seal Pain in the butt job that is going to be be for a poxy little rubber seal.



(:-})

Loving the yellow wheels Carl

It is a miracle I'm alive, the roundabouts on the way home were no better than the ones on my way to you

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Cheers Watty

Top shock nut torque 44nm IIRC It will be in the workshop manual somewhere.

(:-})

TravisZack wrote:Removed the spacer from the shock, I was having to clamp down really tight on the top nut (which I can't find a torque value for) to adjust preload without spinning the whole unit, as with the spacer the shock goes past the ridge that keeps it straight. Anyway, may as well see what it's like without, forks (Roger'd) are dropped 5mm and it seems very flickable with the spacer, maybe too much. We shall see when the weather dries up, probably next weekend

If you go back to running a spacer there is a fix......

What I did was add 4 cap screws to hold the spacer in place that thread in from the bottom.