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Great stuff, More pics a the ready please

do you have a pic of the front showing the removed sidelight replaced with mesh?

Very nice

Will post a pic of the front eventually (Jeezus you guys are demanding, lol)

cheers

Really nice example mate....... thumbs up from me

Pm sent over rear sets mik shock me with the price

It's not the rearsets mate, it's the exhaust hangers. I'm already in contact with Mic regarding them.

(:-})

Sorry chaps i got a bit giddy read the post to fast dam it

Ill get some one day

You have been a busy boy over the winter Micky, well done

It'll be interesting to see what the dyno has to say when you get around to it, but from what you're saying it sounds like you made some more gains again

Chris.

sirch345 wrote:It'll be interesting to see what the dyno has to say when you get around to it, but from what you're saying it sounds like you made some more gains again

Chris.

Oh yeah; it pulls with significantly more authority than last spring (when it dynoed 122 bhp and 77 lb-ft)..... I am very content with the way it runs now.....

So what cam timing differences did you make?
Moved fronts or rears, or both?

And did you just just pick a number of degrees, or did you match Mori's or Yoshi's centre lobe timings?

Did you do any development work, one degree at a time on the dyno, for example?

See, that's what demanding looks like

Hi Tony,

FYI, cams are Yoshi Stage 1s (more lift and duration than stock, more lift but less duration than Moris). I origianlly had them set at 107/110 lobe centers (intake/exhaust; just slightly off the Yosh recommended settings of 108/110). However, after the rebuild a little over a year ago, I was trying to figure out why the dyno numbers weren`t better (after all, not much was spared if you look at my list of mods). In going over the matter with Roger D (can`t say enough great things about the man), he noted that the cam timing specs were extremely conservative. I had a look (fairly new to this, I am) and decided to have them re-set to 104/108 (had DLC-coated tappets put in at the same time). Bingo! Found the missing ingredient. It pulls much harder now and it seems as though all the mods have finally all come together (exhaust, billet stacks, BMC filter,....). Not sure how Yosh ever came up with such lame specs for their cam installation but, suffice to say, it`s possible to get much better results by changing the timing slightly.

Not sure how Yosh ever came up with such lame specs for their cam installation but, suffice to say, it`s possible to get much better results by changing the timing slightly.

I would say that's because they manufacture for various bikes. So not quite so bike specific. Big companies like that are not too bothered if their sales are good Then you get joe bloggs with loads of money and purchases just for bling, Get a local garage to fit it, and blag to their mates.
Then you get the serious enthusiasts like us and the pro's. We buy them, tinker, test and when in need of help go to someone like Roger who knows exactly what he's talking about and knows the bikes inside out (litrally) including the bike specific idiosyncrasies. Just my thought on it..

With regards to you altering the timing. Are you doing this by altering the TPS and using a Timing light or is it a case of have the lobes on the cams altered.

Have Fun.

(:-})

Cams were re-timed using adjustable cams sprockets (by Falicon). One can elongate the holes on the OEM sprockets for fine-tuning but I elected to get the proper bits (Falicons).

mik_str wrote:Hi Tony,

FYI, cams are Yoshi Stage 1s (more lift and duration than stock, more lift but less duration than Moris). I origianlly had them set at 107/110 lobe centers (intake/exhaust; just slightly off the Yosh recommended settings of 108/110). However, after the rebuild a little over a year ago, I was trying to figure out why the dyno numbers weren`t better (after all, not much was spared if you look at my list of mods). In going over the matter with Roger D (can`t say enough great things about the man), he noted that the cam timing specs were extremely conservative. I had a look (fairly new to this, I am) and decided to have them re-set to 104/108 (had DLC-coated tappets put in at the same time). Bingo! Found the missing ingredient. It pulls much harder now and it seems as though all the mods have finally all come together (exhaust, billet stacks, BMC filter,....). Not sure how Yosh ever came up with such lame specs for their cam installation but, suffice to say, it`s possible to get much better results by changing the timing slightly.

Ah, slightly advanced, but with an additional four degrees of overlap.
Got all the equipment to set mine up but can't afford the very many dyno runs it would take to find a perfect setting, so I might copy your settings and see what we get.....

TBH it's a lot easier to set it up on the workbench, but as I don't fancy pulling the engine out of the frame (again) I'll just reset them using the Honda standard cam sprockets slotted by me and see if they stay where they're set.
They should do, there's not a lot of torque trying to turn them, as long as the cam sprocket bolts are properly tightened up.
No easy way to check that there's enough clearance between valves and pistons throughout the cycle without removing the heads, but there's one easy way to find out, I suppose- set it , turn it over, if nothing touches, fire it up....

Another job to find time to fit in....

I had the tech at my dealership (same chap who does all the more technical and significant work on my bike, did the rebuild) do the re-time. I believe the actual gain in overlap is more 5 degrees than 4 (3 from intake, 2 from exhaust), although the actual interplay of the cam profiles themselves may impact the true figure slightly.

In a perfect world, it would be nice to be able to play around and try all the different possible settings but, being firmly entrenched in the middle class, that is not an option for me so I "guesstimated" and found settings that work, and very welll at that. There may be more "left on the table" as they say but unless I win a lottery, I will likely never know......

FWIW, I think the LC settings recommended for Mori cams are 105.5 and 107.5 (IIRC).

One last thing, I know the tech didn`t have too pull the engine out to do the re-time (although it`s likely a fairly confined bit of work)....