The side stand switch could cause problems. It's an easy one to rule out by bypassing it. You can so this my linking the two wires together to make a continuous circuit. You can do the same check with the clutch switch at the lever. A short bit of wire with a couple of male spade terminals should do the trick. Or scotchlock (those blue crimp terminal blocks) the two wires together. I personally prefer a bit of wire as it doesn't damage the outer sheath on the wire.
As for connecting a multimeter to a HT lead (secondary circuit) I don't think you can do this with a standard meter, but need one that has one of those magnetic pickups (whatever they are called) that you get on timing lights that attach around the lead. You may be able to measure some kind of resistance at the plug end while disconnected and engine not running. But this doesn't help really as you want check under some revs.
Diabolus wrote:could the side stand switch cause an issue ??? it doesnt spring up as tight as it used too ???
soungs logical as you say it happens going over bumpy roads, stand bouncing and gibing intermitant contact . test then replace spring and switch ITS there for a reason >saves your pride and joy and embarrasment
If your in gear it wont start unless you dip the clutch to prevent the bike jumping forward. You must be in the habit of making sure your in neutral. If you look at the base of clutch lever under the fluid reservoir you will see two wires with spade terminals. That's your switch
Diabolus wrote:any ideas how i can hook up a multi-meter to the ht leads to monitor the current whilst in use ??
Fit an easy-tune or whatever they're called. They fit between the cap and plug of any engine and emit a weak red glow each time the plug fires. It's really to act like a strobe and show the ignition timing- you shine it on the engine's timing marks.
But you could just strap it to the bars and it would let you see if it's cutting out to that cylinder sometimes.
And easier than testing the switch would be to use a cable tie or bungee to hold it tight up and go for a ride to see if it's still missing over bumps.
But that you COULD leave a meter connected to when you go for a ride.
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
having just gone and checked when the sidestand warning light comes on it nearly half the travel of the side stand from raised to out so think its highly un likely its that but I will by-pass it just to rule it out
This is anoying the hell out of me as I had an issue with my gixer that had several possible causes and wasted a load of money on it trying to sort it
Im doing the tamworth ride out im kinda hoping that what ever it is gives up completely coil etc....... you can fix anything once you know what is broken but somthing like this is hard to pin point
Another thought you havn't cought the throttle cables and made them go tight ?, when you go over the bumps the slightest movement of throttle makes it seem to stutter, it'd be like a light switch.
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popkat wrote:Another thought you havn't cought the throttle cables and made them go tight ?, when you go over the bumps the slightest movement of throttle makes it seem to stutter, it'd be like a light switch.
thanks i will check. it is exactly like that but does it also when on full throttle.
Def sounds like a poor connection or something breaking down under load.
Why don't you try taking off as many bits of plastic as possible, place the front wheel against a kerb or wall,have a mate sit on it whilst the engine is running and let the clutch out a bit until it starts to bite. This will put a bit of load onto the electrics. Then, at the same time you go around the bike and beat hell, (i mean tap) all the electrical connectors, modules, switches and twist all the looms, HT leads and earth straps you can reach. It might show up something
Pete.l
My new ride is a bit of a Howler and I love to make her Squeal