exact quantity of oil/level window

[Stratman]

It's a piece of glass. How malfunctional could it be?

[Wicky]

[Stratman]

That's a pane

[lloydie]

You moss be kidding

[nt1980]

What happened to the window cleaner


Sounds to me there is to much in there and so you cant see it in the window that is easily done.

If it were me drain it out and try again.

[Theodio]

It's not just a piece of glass. If the little passage ways inside the glass from which the oil flows to be shown to the glass is clogged then the oil does not show up on the window.

I hope this is not the scenario. At Saturday I'll change the oil and I'll put 4 lts after drain and I'll watch for the level shown at the window. Will it rise, it'll be a releaf for me...!!! We'll see...

Guys you should listen to my cans, far superior than Akrapovic, devil, terminnoni etc...

[nt1980]

Dont put exactly in just put it in slowly and keep an eye on the window

[darkember]

Ignore what it says in the manual.

Procedure is as follows:
1 Remove sump plug and drain oil. If you also remove the oil filler cap this will aid it in draining out faster.

2 Unscrew and remove oil filter. You will either need an oil filter wrench or big grips to do this. If you have neither or it's on exceptionally tight then you can use an old screwdriver and a hammer and knock the screwdriver through the old filter and lever it off.

3 Either use a new copper washer for the sump plug or heat it up until it starts to glow to re-anneal it and then replace the sump plug. Do not overtighten this.

4 Remove any plastic packaging off the base of the oil filter and smear a ring of oil around the rubber seal and screw it on hand tight as much as you can.

5 Fill up with the bike upright to the max level in the oil level window. Be careful not to overfill. You can do this without sitting on the bike. Just get a friend to hold the bike exactly upright. Use the top of the tank as a guide to get the angle so it's not leaning slightly to the left or right. If you cant see the oil level then get your friend to tip the bike slightly towards the right and you will soon see the oil getting close to the window.

6 Once level put the filler cap back on and wipe any spilt oil off the casings, you can then start the bike up and let it run for a few minutes, then switch off and allow the oil drain back down to the sump.

7 The oil level will have dropped slightly as it had now filled the oil filter up so top back up to the upper level as necessary.

It will take roughly 4.2 litres of oil to fill up.



(:-})

If you want to be really anal you can pre-fill the filter with oil prior to fitting, this will take about 500ml. It is suppose to assist against mechanical wear on initial startup

[VTRDark]

What components it's only an oil filter. Everything else is already coated in oil.

Theo behind the glass on the inside there is a kind of circular mesh that sits over the glass. It would take some serious engine damage/old crusty oil to block this and the glass so you can't see through it. Saying that though you can get like a tainted colour to the inside of the glass. If you ever remove the casing you can give it a good clean.

(:-})

[Theodio]

Yes! It has i thin light brown coloration inside the glass but very light! Used oil, should have be more distinctive through the light brown coloration because its black!!

I dont now but I think I'll buy tomorrow new oil. What brand do you recommend?? I used 5100 10w40 Motul and Torco 10w40 T4R semi.
Whats the best out there??

[lloydie]

I always pre fill the oil filter and leave it to sit for a few minutes before fitting .
I like to know the oil is where it needs to be when I turn the key

[Watty]

Tbh because the filter is horizontally mounted there would be little or no oil left in there by the time you got it screwed home even if it was pre filled!

[VTRDark]

Exactly, most will fall out an make a mess. Totally pointless exercise IMO. Or is this a bit like draining the cooling system before removing the carbs.

I just don't get it, it's not as if the oil pump is directly behind the filter and even if it was it would still have a good coating of the oil on it from where it was drained. It's not as if components are totally clean/dry from draining or they are new parts straight out the factory, even then all they would do is pre-coat them in some oil or grease upon installation if your lucky. If it makes one feel better by pre-filling the filter first then go ahead.

How many people bother to take their cam covers off and pour some oil on their cams if the bike has been sitting for a few days. It takes bit longer for oil to get up there when starting the bike.


Theo: asking which oil to use is like asking what's the best colour bike. So Black oil would obviously be the best. You will see it in your window then On a more serious note if you follow the procedure as I explained above, after the first start up the oil will soon look black again and loose it's caramel colour. There's no reason for not being able to see the oil level through the window. A torch may help if you shine it directly onto the window. Also if the bike is rocked from side to side you should see the oil swooshing about in the window.

This is getting silly now, just get out there and do it.

(:-})

[Stephan]

4 Remove any plastic packaging off the base of the oil filter and smear a ring of oil around the rubber seal and screw it on hand tight as much as you can.

not sure about this one, I use much less force to tighten the oil filter.

[VTRDark]

Well yeh it's the whole hand tight discussion thing again isn't it. What's hand tight we all have different strengths. There's probably a specific torque for them in the manual, I don't know as I've not looked for that, but I have known some peole to use a filter wrench to put them back on

What a lot of people overlook is that they tighten up more over time with the pressures of the engine running. This I expect is why some people end up having to take a screwdriver and hammer to a filter when changing as they have been overtightened to the point of not being able to undo easily.

My method is to screw it on loosely with one hand and then nip it up using two hands, if that makes sense. When it comes to changing again I can usually get it back off using two hands and some force. If not I have a huge pair of adjustable grips a bit like the following.



(:-})