High comp pistons being fitted this weekend

[mik_str]

Don't be shy Carl... you KNOW you want hi-comp pistons..... muuuahahahahahahahah

[VTRDark]

I have plans as and when funds allow. I have a spare engine sitting in my garden with casings needing splitting, so a long term rebuild project is on cards.

(:-})

[Jscobey]

And yes, you can just about get to all four on the big end bolts without taking the oil pump off, but's it's a bugger, that last one...it's hard to ensure that it's properly torqued.
Just to make sure I ordered five big end bolts, in case one gets rounded off.
I think next time I'll pull the clutch and oil pump off anyway, but wanted to see if Scobey was right

it is a bugger tony. DISCLAIMER: i take no responsibilty for any loss of life or property damage from taking any advice from me.

be patient with that last bolt. the important thing to remember is you only need a torque spec of 25ft lbs which isnt very much. now the 120 degrees past that is the same weather your using an elbow joint or not. the tough part is getting it to stay on the darn bolt. but it is possible. plus if your anything like me, taking off the clutch and oil pump is just one more thing that can go bang when you start her up the first time.

[sirch345]

Glad to hear everything is going well to date Tony
Carl is right, it's very tempting seeing those JE pistons sitting there like that, pure bling

Chris.

[lloydie]

I want some :-( I will get some tho I'll have to sneak them in . I've been doing a few extra hours the last two weeks and now they are putting me back on 5x8 hour shifts I should be able to get some in the new year so I have till then to do the heads :-)

[VTRDark]

Carl is right, it's very tempting seeing those JE pistons sitting there like that, pure bling

It's the angle of the dangle on the Crown and having an individual spot for each Valve. I wonder how the swirl is affected by the change.

(:-})

[tony.mon]

Not a lot achieved today, got the pistons in and the big ends torqued up.
That tricky one caused a bit of head scratching- mine, not the engine's.
I found a solution:
Using a 3/8 gimbal-type socket wrench with just the 12 point socket on it, rotating the crank to allow the socket to get onto the bolt head, and then rotating the crank back again, trapping the socket and knuckle against the casting. Then I could tighten the bolt without any fear that the socket would slip off or twist at an angle and round off the flats on the bolt.
After it was tight enough, rotate the crank away and get enough clearance to release the wrench and socket.

It would be a lot simpler if you could completely invert the bike and work on it upside down, like you can with a pushbike for a tyre repair.

Anyway, the rear head is on, the front one ready to pop on first thing- in the UK it is a Bank Holiday tomorrow, so I have the necessary third day to get it finished.

ALthough I don't usually bother i built the heads on the bench and set the shims before fitting, with a check after torquing down.
They often move a bit and need a size up or down after torquing, but at least you're in the ballpark.

One bit of bad news, though.
I had some cams remachined about three years back, and the regrind gave me about 1mm more lift. They were in the engine that I destroyed last year, but no damage, so were re-usable when I fitted the hi comps.
But it seems that the grind went through the hardened surface, because when I checked the lobe heights before fitting today the lobes had worn to less than a standard one.
So the standard ones are going back in.

[Jamoi]

Nice work Dr Mon. Those Hi-comps do look ever so schexual! Good luck with the front head tomorrow, shame about the cams but I'm sure you'll think of something in the lab

[Jscobey]

nice mate. i owe the ingenious simple install method to you! cant wait to do my second motor

[VTRDark]

One bit of bad news, though.

Maybe not Was it only the lift that was ground in or was duration changed too. Lift on it's own will give a power boost and lift combined with more duration will give a power boost as well as shift the torque curve up the rev range. Depends what your aiming for really.

Also keeping the standard cams may give you slightly less over all compression possibly making it safer to use lower octane fuel.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki ... patibility

Good work Tony, but where exactly are you intending on running the engine in. Rush hour traffic around the South circular I think you may need a few runs up and down your test track before going to work.

Now get yourself a well deserved hot cocoa before bed.

(:-})

[sirch345]

Cheers for the update Tony good to hear how you are progressing, and the tips you are putting up very helpful for others. That must have been a it of a surprise regarding the reprofiled cams, a good job you spotted it. Keep up the good work

Chris.

[tony.mon]

Sorted, running, feels strong, took it out 21:30 and for the first time today it stopped raining, so I was able to give it some beans to a degree.

The wheelie off a crest on third felt good, until it turned into wheelspin as the rear went light.....
Kept me awake that one did.

Not much left to do, fit the belly pan- some mounting bolts dropped off onto the lawn as I was carrying it over to the garage in the dark, and I couldn't find them.
They're my patent bodge rubber mountings made of a bolt and a tap washer.....
And the coolant needs topping up now that it's had twenty miles on it.

Question: Can you take the inner faring panel off and get to the rad cap?
Never tried it, but it looks doable, just two screws.
I normally just pop the fairing off.

I could do with a weekend off now.....

[lloydie]

Good news it's running . Never tried removing the inner fairing myself .

[Jamoi]

Just in time for work tomorrow

Your wheelie to wheelspin trick sounds like a good indication the motor is running well!

[tony.mon]

Just in time for work tomorrow

Your wheelie to wheelspin trick sounds like a good indication the motor is running well!

Or knackered back tyre with rebuild oil all over it.......