Hey, Jeff.
The lengthened SA is they key to getting these to launch.
Muppet just dialled in some revs and dumped the clutch- they squeal and then lock, which is fine with a longer SA as it won't try to flip you.
But it's impossible to get a decent launch with it with a standard length SA, as it locks as you try to feed mroe power at the bite point. It's a sif the more power you feed it, the bite point moves back to meet you, without you moving the clutch lever at all.
On the drag strip it's a sthough someone has unexpectedly dumped the clutch for you- or to out it another way, it feels exactly as though the cable has suddenly snapped, even though they don't have cables.
You better be hanging on when that happens....
The clutch can be improved with Kevlar friction plates and uprated springs- and don't run on fully synth oil as is can cause clutch slip for extreme use.
I've tried all of the solutions I can think of to get the clutch to work properly, including a conversion to a cable clutch in case it was the mc- which I still think is a contributing factor as it doesn't flow fluid quickly enough.
Look at the output hole from the reservoir to the mc- it's tiny!
I will buy a spare one and drill the hole bigger one day- it's worth a try, but internally will have to be rehoned or it will bugger the piston seals.
Best I've managed is an 11.6, so let's see what you can do.
I haven't done a rwyb for a couple of years now- it would be fun to play that game again, and see if we can encourage some of the others to come and play.
Let us know where you're running and I'll come along.
Any help needed, give us a shout.
These engines are easily tuned for torque or top end hp, but not both at the same time, in my experience.
The key is getting them to breath in- so airbox, heads, oversized inlet valves are more effective than a full system.
High comp pistons work well, but only if you're not planning nitrous of course.

It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.