Hi, from the new guy.

[Pete.L]

Chrz
I don't have access to the manual where I am and I can't remember whether the switch works on being open of close. I think closed but if you have a meter I would set it to Ohms and, with the ignition off, measure across the switch when the clutch is in and out. When the meter reads 0 ohms ( or maybe 2 or 3 if its a cheaper one) that is the "closed" position, it should also change to an "open" circuit (sometimes signified by a symbol, arrow up or OP)
Which ever one is happening when the clutch is pulled in is the state you need the wires too be in to start the engine. Once this is known you can temporarily fix them in that position and that should fool the switch mechanism.

Pete.l

[TheGingerBeardMan]

Anither Scot tae thi fold min!

Fàilte!!

[mattster]

Hello from Paisley!

Hope you get the sidestand issues sorted... I know how frustrating these issues can be...

[t13ony]

Cheers lads! Glad thers some fellow Scots on board!

[fabiostar]

welcome along sir. enjoy the madness

[t13ony]

Bikes started cutting out again every few miles sometimes even 100 yards :/
Booked into my local datatool dealer to hav immobiliser removed. In the meantime I hav removed kickstand switch entirely and bike would click into gear and stay running so I'm assuming it is bypassed correctly..cleaned switch and put bak on but left it bypassed and it's still cutting out
Clutch switch seems to be operating normally I can't get it to fault with clutch switch.
Il update u guys after the immobiliser is removed.