VTR1000.ORG

thanks for replies boys just deciding wether to go for cnc yoke or bolt on risers i want to use pro taper fat bars they are an exellent bit of kit and look the dogs.. better get my dremel out for that fairing,maybe in the future i may go the streetfighter route and have it naked just more work involved with clocks,lights ect ride safe,marko

Welcome aboard Marko

If you decide to go for a CNC top yoke conversion, just beware they may not delivery as quick as they say, a few members on here have been caught out with slow delivery times in the past.
Hopefully you will be able to tell us delivery times are good now

On the plus side I've seen CNC top yokes fitted to Firestorm's at my local bike meet-up, I will say they are quality, very well made top yoke conversions,

Chris.

Hello and welcome

Hello & welcome aboard Marko

welcome along marko. enjoy the site

thanks for welcome boys the more i read about changing cct the more i get paranoid.so when i get a bit of spare time gonna have a look, are manual tensioners a lot different in appearance to auto?how do i tell if its already been done or is it a case of posting a photo ?next question how much are manual jobbys ,and for photo reference how much crap do i have to remove before i can get a clear pic of tensioners,,ride safe mark

I bought a set of APE manual CCT's within days of buying my VTR last year, way too many horror stories about for me to do otherwise.

There is a fantastic guide to fitting them on this very website in the workshop knowledgebase section, and plenty of helpful souls to chip in with any other advice. I probably took 2-3 hours to fit the APE tensioners, there is a fair bit of disassembly (tank/fairing/airbox/carbs/radiator) to get access to the cam covers, but the same applies to a valve clearance check. The tensioner installation is pretty simple, but ensuring the correct crank position to avoid a chain jump and then setting the tension needs valve gear access, hence the disassembly.

Manual CCT adjusters are no more complicated than a suitably long bolt with a locknut passing through a threaded mount; very different in appearance to the fully enclosed OEM part. You can see an APE MCCT near the centre of this picture of my bike, the colourful anodised part. There is also a "stopper mod" that can be made to the OEM tensioner so that when the spring breaks, it does not allow the chain to jump teeth.

Look at the back cylinder by your right foot to see what's fitted

Left Manual tensioner / Right OEM auto tensioner



These are your main choices > Krieger, APE, Bazza and Ade Whitmarsh's CCT's > http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 31&t=22720

DIY fitting guide > http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=8326

The Welcome Inn > *** Read Me for New Members *** > Bike Maintenance and Upgrades/Modifications > http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic ... 45#p304638

thanks for info boys,mine is still on original tensioners so its a job to do over winter ,just got my delkevik cans fitted and they sound ace they have removable baffles but open pipes isnt an option way too loud and i reckon will upset mixture/throttle response,ok for trackdays tho.will post photos of bike soon,ta marko