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cybercarl wrote:My mistake higher is what I meant toward the blunt end. Doh

Oh hold on this could be confusing because if you play your cards right, lower could mean lowering the needle into the carb leaning it out or higher could mean lifting the needle out the hole richening it up.

So it depends on whether one is talking clips or needles.

needle clip 2nd from the bottom, bottom being the blunt end.

Higher, Lower, No Higher

(:-})

I wonder how much your lifting the needle by when you say 2nd clip compared to me shimming a standard needle?

How much do you recon you've lifted your needles by using the clips mm?

If that makes sense lol!

Lowered the needles 2 clips to lean it off in the mid range right ?

Yep so out of the 5 clip positions on the FP needles (note dyno has 6) it's on the 2 slot from the blunt (diaphram) end and the rear also has a shim so a tad richer. Then richened up the mixture with the 50's so some of that goes into the mids hence the leeness of the needles.

Dyno should be interesting, but the bike pulls good and strong throughout the whole rev range. Like I said earlier the dyno AF might say to me to richen the needles and put 48 pilots in. We will see...

Same amount of fish per a revolution just faster.

(:-})

wonder how much your lifting the needle by when you say 2nd clip compared to me shimming a standard needle?

How much do you reckon you've lifted your needles by using the clips mm?

Going by what I have read on the hawk site IIRC it was micstr measured the dynojet needle clip positions being 40thou apart, not measured my FP ones. And I have added a 20though shim which falls in the middle. Also you need to take into consideration different needle profiles and lengths.

But I can see where your heading by trying to make comparisons. Every bike is different and you will find your bikes preferred settings. The problem your going to have is that you can only richen the needles with shims and can not go the other way as they are the original needles.

So you have added the K&N and richened up the top with larger mains, and richened the mid with shims. Some of those mains will overlap into the mid so double richening it up. Your top end is good but have now lost the mid/bottom. You could either remove the shims or lower the mains to get some of that midrange punch back. Or lower the mains even more and add some shims which would overlap back the other way into the mains richening up the top a bit. Then once you have that done that move onto the pilot circuit. You may have to compromise a bit on top for getting your mid/lows back.

As your finding out it's not straight forward and a bit of trial and error is involved. But having the original needles with the K&N is going to be tricky to get right.

(:-})

Mk2 modded air box lower

Much stronger than the first as i made the infills from an old airbox lid but its has a little less volume egg cup at the most
So that's what I've done today only took 4 hours :-)

Some work gone into that fella! Wonder how much of a difference it will make?

good work lloydie........

Does the autograph increase it's value. Nice job loads cleaner than the first one. Where have you lost the eggcups worth of volume then?

(:-})

Looks really good mate, and like all works of art, signed!!

scott02464 wrote:Some work gone into that fella! Wonder how much of a difference it will make?

we will find out next week :-)

cybercarl wrote:Does the autograph increase it's value. Nice job loads cleaner than the first one. Where have you lost the eggcups worth of volume then?
I had to sign it as its the best one I've done till the next one ;-)

(:-})

in the rear section as I was running low on good plastic .
So I didn't go as deep in that corner :-( .
And all the bits added have been made flush So there is no steeps .
The last one they were added on the out side .

Kev L wrote:Looks really good mate, and like all works of art, signed!!

modern classic art .
It took less time to do but more work went into it .
Thanks for the kind words :-)

Looks good that lloydie

Today after i did the carbs i found an easy method for people with big hands to put the airbox front breather back on

i saw benny do this in 30 seconds, wombles knows how but he did!

any way it usualy takes me about 30mins to get it on, no joke and today it took over an hour as i dropped the wombles clip and it went under the engine mount bar in the middle of the V

so basically i thought how do i get this wombles of a clip on that pipe over the lip then i had a eureka moment, thank god i just learnt how to do laces

String, took the clip off and took a long piece of string and then did a shoe lace type bow with a long lace i could dangle down

then i was able to force the tube onto the airbox and then position the clip where i wanted it sat and then pull the lace and it was in place and gripping firmly, took all of 2 mins





don't know why i never thought of that before but its made it a hell of a lot easier for me, at least until i buy a moded box of lloydie

Just as you start to get the knack you be fitting a gutted airbox lol

lloydiecbr wrote:Just as you start to get the knack you be fitting a gutted airbox lol

i know bloody typical, I've tried it every which way in the past but just cant get my hands in the gaps, always one of the longest most time consuming jobs for me putting that bitch of a pipe on, cant wait for the Lloydie special

seb421 wrote:

lloydiecbr wrote:Just as you start to get the knack you be fitting a gutted airbox lol

i know bloody typical, I've tried it every which way in the past but just cant get my hands in the gaps, always one of the longest most time consuming jobs for me putting that bitch of a pipe on, cant wait for the Lloydie special

you'll be getting the mk1 tho :-)