bike wont rev past 7 help please

[lloydie]

Would I be right in saying the exhaust note is a but tinni and very poppy rather than a growl lol

No it's more growly with the thumps closer together

[Gazfirestormowner]

Ill be quiet and sit at the back then lol

[lloydie]

Ill be quiet and sit at the back then lol

No just take them baffles out :-)

[fordstorm]

Would I be right in saying the exhaust note is a but tinni and very poppy rather than a growl lol

it sounds like a pop ticking over then when reving it the slowly it is like lumps very very close together

[agentpineapple]

Would I be right in saying the exhaust note is a but tinni and very poppy rather than a growl lol

it sounds like a pop ticking over then when reving it the slowly it is like lumps very very close together

you'll probably need the carbs tinkering with now fella, as you bike had been set up to run with the timing out, book some dyno time or have a go at it yourself, theres plenty to read in the workshop knowledge section, once jetted correctly your bike will rev strongly to the red line, with no bogging down or stuttering. you'll also need to get the carbs synced/balanced again, while your at it you could reset your tps to 500ohm, then whack some loud cans on and away you go..........

[VTRDark]

you'll probably need the carbs tinkering with now fella, as you bike had been set up to run with the timing out,.....

Hold on, he's not put the timing back yet if this is for sure the issue.

Now go back and read through the posts you didn't read.

(:-})

[tony.mon]

Ah ffs the timing for the cams is out, get that sorted first; everything else is a waste of time.
If you can't do it yourself get the bike to one of us that can and we'll get on with it.
Nothing else matters re carbs and other settings until the cam timing is set correctly.

[cnswilly]

So after reading this thread a few times and looking in the manual as i was having the same problem of not reving out past 7000 i decided to look into my cams. My bike sounded like a sick single cylinder engine with the cams as they were and was wondering maybe thats just how they sound??? Well i was wrong! I pulled the rear rocker cover off. found TDC rotated the cams 180 deg and reassembled. Now i saw a little trick with the ziptie around the cam chain through the gear and used this when reassembling! Wow neat trick. rotated the engine no noise all turned and started the old girl up! Lets say i was a happy man with a smile from ear to ear. My dan moto exhasut now sound great considering the 280 delivered price! Another thought about the mcct. I had a thought as to how they are locked off and needing things to keep it locked by using some goop. Well why not use a locking tab and a keyed shaft on the mcct. Use this to lock the locking nut and the shaft to the body and tada its locked and will never shift. similar idea as to that used on dirtbike countershaft sprockets?

[horndog]

im having exactly the same thing after having manuals fitted, the garage have had my bike a month scratching their heads

[MacV2]

im having exactly the same thing after having manuals fitted, the garage have had my bike a month scratching their heads

The garage have mucked the timing up...It's 180* out. It will run but at higher revs it can't get enough air into the air box to sattisfy two pistons gulping at the same time...

You need to get them to reset the timing correctly.

Set the front cams to the correct spot, wind the crank anti clock wise 1 3/4 turns to get the RT mark up, the remove the rear cams & set to the correct position...Or something like that...

Someone will be along shortly to say thats baldrocks you do it like this...hopefully...

[tony.mon]

Have a look at the sticky thread I'm the workshop section.
It doesn't matter which cylinder you choose bit you want to rotate the cams, and the rear one is easiest.

Set the rear one at tdc, aligning the mark on the flywheel.
You want the tdc where the cams are pushing the valves open, and pointing down, the line on the cam sprocket should line up with the head top surface.

Slacken off the cam cap nuts, a little at a time, evenly.
Remove the cams and rotate then 180 degrees.
Refit, lining up the scribe lines on the cam sprockets but so that the cam lobes point upwards and do not push the valves down.
Check the clearances.
Reassemble and ride.

It's barely worth putting shop gloves on for.