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It could be a loose connection on the r/r tbh and that will be the first place I look :-)
And the battery connections as all them were taken off . I'd be starting at one end and working my way through the loom . Idle hands and all that lol

Thanks benny i will let you know :thumb up:

Lloydie, Just what you don't need when you have finished a rebuild, hope you find the fault quickly

lloydiecbr wrote:It could be a loose connection on the r/r tbh and that will be the first place I look :-)
And the battery connections as all them were taken off . I'd be starting at one end and working my way through the loom . Idle hands and all that lol

Did you get the sub frame powder coated? I had the same thing happen to me - the RR wasn't getting a good earth anymore... had to add a new earth strap directly to the RR to compensate!! (or you could just scrape a wee bit of powder coating off.... )

The sub frame was powder coated !
I will check the earths and I think I will take it back to the metal behind the r/r as it can only help

it was a loose earth on the r/r

i removed some powder coat from behind the r/r on rear subframe just to make sure .
however im only getting 13.9-14volts at the battery when running and with the lights on im getting 13.5volts
and 12.5 volts when engine and lights are turned off .

i also noticed that if i put the earth on the tester on the earth on the r/r i get 0.1 more volts so this could be a good mod ie an earth from the r/r directly to the - on the battery as i think this will help with charging

Have you removed paint/powder coat where the subframe mounts on the main frame (also painted) these additionally could all be acting as an insulator for your bike's electrical circuit...

Wicky wrote:Have you removed paint/powder coat where the subframe mounts on the main frame (also painted) these additionally could all be acting as an insulator for your bike's electrical circuit...

that was my thought. every thread and contact face that is painted or powder coated will cause a voltage drop

Wicky wrote:Have you removed paint/powder coat where the subframe mounts on the main frame (also painted) these additionally could all be acting as an insulator for your bike's electrical circuit...

good point i will get on it thank you
but i still cant see it getting better than the 0.1volt with a direct earth to the battery but i will do it anyway

Today I have been mainly causing havoc.

Ruined the rest of the clutch basket. Ordered funky clutch basket tool and now I am seriously thinking to buy air compressor with pressure tools to unscrew that FU**ing bolt.

Opening that causes problems also because the engine is not mounted on frame, so it moves easily and therefore there are all kind of bending forces to strange angles...

Oh I hate it when I don't have all the tools needed for such a simple task.

Luckily the spare clutch basket already arrived, so if everything else fails, I'll open it with powerdrill or sledgehammer. And I truly hope it is normal bolt opening to normal direction (which explains why it is tighten so much).

Try an extender bar with the 1/2" socket and a suitable length of tubing to get the leverage needed. And someone to help stabalise the bike when undoing the bolt. Did you get another clutch nut as its best not to reuse the old un.

Trainraider wrote:Today I have been mainly causing havoc.

Ruined the rest of the clutch basket. Ordered funky clutch basket tool and now I am seriously thinking to buy air compressor with pressure tools to unscrew that FU**ing bolt.

Opening that causes problems also because the engine is not mounted on frame, so it moves easily and therefore there are all kind of bending forces to strange angles...

Oh I hate it when I don't have all the tools needed for such a simple task.

Luckily the spare clutch basket already arrived, so if everything else fails, I'll open it with powerdrill or sledgehammer. And I truly hope it is normal bolt opening to normal direction (which explains why it is tighten so much).

Collected a hugger from lloydiecbr today - Thanks, mate

70 mile round trip - 5 degrees when I started out, 2 when I got back. A good test for my new heated grips which came with a faulty connector and required a bit of soldering to make a good connection. They're fine now and I was able able to keep plenty warm at a steady 85 on the M69/M1. They'll do for me!

Trainraider wrote:Today I have been mainly causing havoc.

Ruined the rest of the clutch basket. Ordered funky clutch basket tool and now I am seriously thinking to buy air compressor with pressure tools to unscrew that FU**ing bolt.

Opening that causes problems also because the engine is not mounted on frame, so it moves easily and therefore there are all kind of bending forces to strange angles...

Oh I hate it when I don't have all the tools needed for such a simple task.

Luckily the spare clutch basket already arrived, so if everything else fails, I'll open it with powerdrill or sledgehammer. And I truly hope it is normal bolt opening to normal direction (which explains why it is tighten so much).

Use a ratchet strap to pull the socket bar towards the clutch holding tool then the nut comes undone easy and the engine doesn't fall over.

mr.john.coates wrote:Collected a hugger from lloydiecbr today - Thanks, mate

70 mile round trip - 5 degrees when I started out, 2 when I got back. A good test for my new heated grips which came with a faulty connector and required a bit of soldering to make a good connection. They're fine now and I was able able to keep plenty warm at a steady 85 on the M69/M1. They'll do for me!

Your welcome :-) nice little winter ride to keep them skill levels up :-)

Competed in a good trial over Telford way and then gave it a quick wash.......this was on my GasGas, not the storm