VTR1000.ORG

Will attempt mine again tomorrow me thinks

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Eclectic wrote: I reckon if I had a haynes to hand, I wouldnt feel so blind when I go in there.

As for the idle jets, I reckon they are gummed up, bike is a bit snatchy at a steady throttle.

dont use haynes it shite - use the free pdf manual from the workshop section.
the snatchyness is more likely to be carbs need balancing.

you dont need to unbolt the carb linkage to do the tps

i adjusted the needle setting on mine earlier and it's now ok at 3k but the hiccup has moved to 4.5 - 5k now lol.
i'll have another mess with it tomorrow & if it doesnt sort it i'll stick it back ont dyno & see what's going on.
i figured the mix was too rich at 3500 but seems it may have been weak, it runs like a bag of poo now lol.
ok to 3k & over 6k but the middle range where it's on the needle is all to rock.
i'll sort it tomorrow.

*also, with lowering the needles & weakening the mid range mixture - fuel economy suffered!
filled up 14.14L (3.11 gals) after 131 miles = 42.12mpg.
still not bad but not as good as yesterday
that's a possible range of 175 miles, whereas before i adjusted it the range was a possible 220 miles, which ive seen a few times!
so weakening the fuel mix does not necessarily mean better fuel economy,

balanced my carbs and did the tps today, massive difference seems a lot smoother and more responsive, and picks the front up a lot easier now just need to learn what to do with it when its up now (oooer missus) instead of crapping myself and dropping it otherwise my next post will be on head bearings lol

Carbs were cleaned & balanced by a spanner monkey only three weeks ago. Fuel economy went up after, I was getting about 70 miles before the light came on, now I get 81. But I tend to thrash the butt off her.

Eclectic wrote:
But since cleaning the oil filter, the bike is notably more sluggish, doesnt take off aswell at 7.5k. I reckon I over oiled the beastie

Yes, sounds like it.
It will make it run rich at the top end of the rev range, so clean and re-oil lightly.

You'll coke up the heads and ports if left.

tony.mon wrote:

Eclectic wrote:
But since cleaning the oil filter, the bike is notably more sluggish, doesnt take off aswell at 7.5k. I reckon I over oiled the beastie

Yes, sounds like it.
It will make it run rich at the top end of the rev range, so clean and re-oil lightly.

You'll coke up the heads and ports if left.

Im glad she called me in for food, otherwise Id have had all back together before reading that!

Anyways, got the TPS done! Cheers for the pep talk Benny "man up, ya poof"

Before:


After:


Took ALOT to get it to 430, so we'll see if Ive fooked it later

Anyways, got the TPS done! Cheers for the pep talk Benny "man up, ya poof"

Before:


After:


Took ALOT to get it to 430, so we'll see if Ive fooked it later [/quote]


How did you get it down to 430 mate, i couldn't get mine below 450.

Benny suggested in another thread to use a Dremel to wind out the holes so you can get a bit of extra twist on the body of the TPS. Well, I didnt have a bit in my Dremel box small enough to get in the hole, so I used an SS drill bit in my battery drill and slowly wound the holes out, a little a a time and rechecking the value till I got it to 430.

I can definetly say throttle response seems much-o improved, only had time for a little run before the good lady left for work, but pulled the biggest wheelie Ive done yet! In the panic of having the wheel so high I dropped the throttle, and as I was waering jeans I crushed more than just the head bearings

EDIT, infact, if you look at the before pic and the blue marks, then the after pic, youll see just how far I had to move it!!

Eclectic wrote:Benny suggested in another thread to use a Dremel to wind out the holes so you can get a bit of extra twist on the body of the TPS. Well, I didnt have a bit in my Dremel box small enough to get in the hole, so I used an SS drill bit in my battery drill and slowly wound the holes out, a little a a time and rechecking the value till I got it to 430.

I can definetly say throttle response seems much-o improved, only had time for a little run before the good lady left for work, but pulled the biggest wheelie Ive done yet! In the panic of having the wheel so high I dropped the throttle, and as I was waering jeans I crushed more than just the head bearings

EDIT, infact, if you look at the before pic and the blue marks, then the after pic, youll see just how far I had to move it!!

i see it now mate, i'll have to ask benny if there's much difference between 450 and 430 apart from the obvious 20ohms lol.

good man. get on with i say.
if you get stuck just post on here or fone a friend lol
regarding the tps resistance.... i just went along with mik.str's setting as he's had good results with it as have lads over on superchicken.com
if you test the resistance with the sensor detatched from the carbs, it's starting point is 430 ohms, so it makes sense to fit it at it's lowest resistance.
the icm calculates ignition advance from this setting (and temp & rpm)

i just had the carbs off mine again trying to sort my nasty case of hiccups.... hopefully it's better than yesterday cos it's a pain stripping it all down, but saying that, ive developed a method of getting the diaphragms back in easier (if youve ever taken the slides out you'll know what i mean!)
what i do -
pack the diaphragm rim recess on the carb with silicon grease (or vaseline)
drop the slide in it's place with the diaphragms retracted downwards
trap a spotlessly clean 24mm socket under the slide (carefully lol so as not to damage the needle) - this traps the slide halfway and makes it easier to pop the spring in.
push the diaphragm lip into it's recess - the grease holds it in place quite well
pack the spring into the tube on the diaphragm lid, holding it back with one finger
pop the tube (and spring) over the needle retainer and bobs yer fag, 2 minute job, whereas before it was taking me half a hr each and lots of swearing!

also noticed something the mot tester missed....

i wouldve failed me for that.

*btw.... before i let them go, i decided to retest the bike with 2 long intake stacks....
result? flat as a pancake, not a patch on how it is with 2 shorties.
now maybe this is because i have different cams in mine and other mods - it may be an improvement on standard bikes, but on mine... nah.
2 short stacks work way better for me, much smoother, more willing to rev high, noticeably more powerfull up top, better acceleration through the gears etc...
so whoever it was asked me for the long ones (loydy was it?) they will be in the post this week if you'd like to pm your addy (again!)
also found the oem indicator trims for someone who wanted them and alec ive cleaned that tyre up & it's ok... i'll post it when ive got some £ lol as mrs has bankrupted me again 2 days after payday!

whats the blurry pic sposed to be?

benny hedges wrote:*btw.... before i let them go, i decided to retest the bike with 2 long intake stacks....
result? flat as a pancake, not a patch on how it is with 2 shorties.
now maybe this is because i have different cams in mine and other mods - it may be an improvement on standard bikes, but on mine... nah.
2 short stacks work way better for me, much smoother, more willing to rev high, noticeably more powerfull up top, better acceleration through the gears etc...
so whoever it was asked me for the long ones (loydy was it?) they will be in the post this week if you'd like to pm your addy (again!)
also found the oem indicator trims for someone who wanted them and alec ive cleaned that tyre up & it's ok... i'll post it when ive got some £ lol as mrs has bankrupted me again 2 days after payday!

Ben, you need to get in touch with Dr Honda on the Superhawk forum and order a set of long billet stacks (exact copies of ones developed by HPower in Australia, who designed them on a flow bench). Trust me, you will not be disappointed!

mik_str wrote: Ben, you need to get in touch with Dr Honda on the Superhawk forum and order a set of long billet stacks (exact copies of ones developed by HPower in Australia, who designed them on a flow bench). Trust me, you will not be disappointed!

thing is m8 with the cams im using and the light flywheel, the bike wants to live between 7k & the limiter (approx 10.5k) so it without a doubt performs (and feels) much better on the short ones.
ive tried the long pair together a few times, as well as the original one of each set up and it just doesnt compare.

the mori ones ive seen though are really short - much shorter than oem so there must be something in it - for a bike that revs high the shorter ones work better (imo)

for folk who want to bimble around in the mid rpm range then yes, the longer ones work better and you feel the advantage of the mid range torque with them, but personally i dont see the point in riding down there when the bike is making 100+ bhp higher up the rpm = much more exciting to ride than pootling around making 30-50hp

Eclectic wrote:Nice to meet your acquaintance, sir! I'm over by gibraltor gardens myself, on Heigham street.

Would be nice to have a ride out with ya at some point.

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I'm on Thorpe Marriott

Fitted a CBR 600RR master cylinder, cant believe the difference ! already had wavy discs, ebc hh pads, braided hoses, all helped a bit, but the new m/c really give them bite. Brakes now work..