VTR1000.ORG

I wont mention the leathers then.

I am thinking that the original primer I used was not enamel comparable.

It's feasible that is what caused the Crazing (craqulure effect) or a contaminated surface. Light dust coats to begin with is the way to go to be on the safe side.

(:-})

A few light coats on the front wheel and so far no probs!





Hopefully they will be right this time and I can get the Storm back on the road soon.

A few more coats and all is well.

What grade sandpaper should I start with to finish them off?

I want them to be smooth.

At this stage I don't plan to give them a clear coat.

Not going for that shiny thing, there is enough of it on my bike now

You should still clear them to protect the paint or they will look sh1t in a year .
You can get satin ,Matt ,gloss , in clear coat .
How thick is the paint on the wheels for colour sanding be very carful on the lips and edges as it will removed quicker .
When I paint my wheels I just dull the colour for a good key for the clear coat .

I agree with Lloyd.

In an ideal world each coat should be as smooth as glass between coats. For the the final coat give a quick once over with some 1200grade wet n dry (silicone carbide paper) used wet to give a quick key, basically remove the shine and any slight orange peel.

Coming along nicely.

(:-})

Oh she it, more sanding and painting then!

At least I have progress in the right direction now.

Front wheel done and ready for clear coat!

Much better now, a few very very slight imperfections that the clear coat should sort.



Now to finish sanding the back wheel and clear coat them on Friday.

Good luck with the clear coat, what a pain this job has been for you,

Chris.

Sure has, been a good excuse for drinking!!

After the hassle you've had, I'd say a drink or two, or three was well deserved

Chris.

It will all be worth it in the end and it has to be more fun than changing the T belt on the Ducati

You have a very nice VTR a one off special and it would be a shame to let it down with the wheels. It would have been more rubbing down if you decided to polish them up chrome and then there's the upkeep on top of that.

(:-})

That's the problem Cyber, my VTR is very special to me and I am anal about it.

Today I got up really early gave the front and back wheels one more going over in readiness for the clear coat and foo kin back wheel rubbed through in a couple of spots.

Re painted back wheel and put clear on front and it came out ace( Another excuse for a drink or 10)

Looks really good, will prep back wheel for clear in two days.



I have also done the forks in satin black and they came out really good as well.

Question is, should I also clear the forks? I haven't sanded them smooth as I still wanted the rough cast look.

Your advice on this is appreciated and thanks to all for your advice and guidance with all this.

I miss the Storm and can't wait to see what it looks like with all the new paint.

I hope the black and white wheels look right!!

I see they are still fighting you Ken, well the rear wheel anyway I'm sure it will all be worth it in the end. Really looking forward to see it all back together, as I know you are.

I can see what you're concerned about if you decide to flatten off the non smooth surface of the fork legs for a clear coat. You don't want to rub through on the high spots.
I can't really advise you on that, but I sure others will be able too.

On another note, I didn't clear coat my repainted fork legs when I did them a few years ago, and now they need doing again. I'm sure had I lacquered (clear coated) them they would have stayed good longer.

Chris.

I am leaning towards clearing the forks as my braced swinger is cleared.

After all this shite I only want to do it once(Famous Last Words)

A couple more of these will help me decide!

At the rate I am going the feckin thing will be shinier than a Christmas tree!

There goes the stealth look.

Hope it's finished by Christmas!

A couple more of these will help me decide!

Couple more of them and you will have a trike as you begin to see double

I would clear the forks also while it's all apart as it's another extra layer of protection. Forks take a battering, there's not much one can do about that apart from not ride and spend more time cleaning and polishing, and we don't want that do we. Whether you want smooth or the rough cast look is personal preference. The rough cast look would help with adhesion and disguise things, the odd painting mistake or stone chip

I first used a heat resistant, so called hard wearing, brake calliper paint on my fork lowers. This did not last long and soon showed some signs of wear. Stone chips/marks etc. I now have a 2K chassis paint on the lowers which is holding up really well so far.

(:-})