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That's a Bazza style MMCT you have there. Looks like they have been changed already so all you need to do now is refit LOL

cybercarl wrote:That's a Bazza style MMCT you have there. Looks like they have been changed already so all you need to do now is refit LOL

Well that sounds like a good thing then so I will continue down this route. However just to clarify the photo I posted is what I have ended up, they were standard Honda automatic CCT's but obviously this one had failed and I was wondering if putting the bolt in the end with a means to lock it would mean I could just do the same with the rear tensioner also.

But as you identified them as being Bazza style ones I guess I have come to the same conclusion and that the modification I have made means they will be good to go once reassembly has taken place.

Thanks,

Oh I see you modified it yourself....cool. Yep do the same to the rear and you will have two MMCT's..... possibly I am confused how you have done this. The bolt should go right through. Basically you drill a hole right through the inside of the tensioner and then replace with a coach bolt. You can't just put a bolt in the end.

cybercarl wrote:Oh I see you modified it yourself....cool. Yep do the same to the rear and you will have two MMCT's..... possibly I am confused how you have done this. The bolt should go right through. Basically you drill a hole right through the inside of the tensioner and then replace with a coach bolt. You can't just put a bolt in the end.

Well at the moment I have the plunger (I think that is the name of it) which has the rubber end on it with metal cap, attached to the screw section that was all part of the original tensioner. Obviously the old spring is goosed so that isn't used. I then thought I could turn the screw section via the hole left after you remove the 8mm bolt at the end of the tensioner, this will then extend the plunger end to push against the chain guide and therefore make the chain tensioned. Once I have the chain at the right tension I then screw the new stainless bolt through the end were the 8mm bolt was until it is tight against the screw inside the body of the tensioner and lock off the bolt so that it can't undo.

My thought was that this would then stop the screw inside from moving and I couldn't push the plunger back down inside the tensioner using my hands, so I thought it would basically be a manual CCT. However I guess I could also tight the screwed section into the plunger and use the long stainless bold to push the whole assembly inside the body against the cam chain guide and then lock it off with the two nuts and spring washer. Result would be the same??

This should work OK in theory but I'm a little uncomfortable about it. The internal screw of the auto tensioner is kept in place by the (now missing) spring. Instead of a torque being applied by the spring you have a bolt hard up against the end of it. You have two pieces doing the job when only one (a through bolt) is needed.

I don't know. It should work. It just goes against my engineering sensibilities.

KermitLeFrog wrote:This should work OK in theory but I'm a little uncomfortable about it. The internal screw of the auto tensioner is kept in place by the (now missing) spring. Instead of a torque being applied by the spring you have a bolt hard up against the end of it. You have two pieces doing the job when only one (a through bolt) is needed.

I don't know. It should work. It just goes against my engineering sensibilities.

Understood, however I don't have a anyway to drill out the original plunger piece to allow the new bolt to go up inside it and there are no machine shops around where I live anymore. So I thought this would be the best solution.

Thanks,

r53bertyboo wrote:

KermitLeFrog wrote:This should work OK in theory but I'm a little uncomfortable about it. The internal screw of the auto tensioner is kept in place by the (now missing) spring. Instead of a torque being applied by the spring you have a bolt hard up against the end of it. You have two pieces doing the job when only one (a through bolt) is needed.

I don't know. It should work. It just goes against my engineering sensibilities.

Understood, however I don't have a anyway to drill out the original plunger piece to allow the new bolt to go up inside it and there are no machine shops around where I live anymore. So I thought this would be the best solution.

Thanks,

Fair enough. I'm interested to know how you get on making the manual adjustment. Let us know,

Cheers
Ian

adewhitmarsh wrote:Hi, welcome to the form.if you need any help with manual ccts,just give me a shout.cheers Ade.

I can pledge for ade. I bought manual CCT from him and cant fault his products or service in anyway.

j4weeson wrote:

adewhitmarsh wrote:Hi, welcome to the form.if you need any help with manual ccts,just give me a shout.cheers Ade.

I can pledge for ade. I bought manual CCT from him and cant fault his products or service in anyway.

Cool, however I can't contact him yet due to minimum posts and he hasn't contacted me either.

But good to here

Well good news, replacement cylinder head arrived and new gaskets and seals. Spent yesterday evening and this evening bolting her back together and used my modified CCT's along with fresh oil and coolant.

Turned her over a few times by hand and then using the starter with the plugs out before letting her fire up.

Apart from the exhaust blowing due to not having the correct nuts to fit correctly she runs!!

Just need to decide if I'm going to risk using the CCT's or buy some replacements and sort out the blowing exhaust. Then she needs an MOT

Happy days

Great work and welcome in. I love the Repsol colours. Thats a sweet looking Storm.

Great news, nothing better than when an engine rebuild cracks back into life

Nice one buddy - good work fella!

r53bertyboo wrote:

cybercarl wrote:Oh I see you modified it yourself....cool. Yep do the same to the rear and you will have two MMCT's..... possibly I am confused how you have done this. The bolt should go right through. Basically you drill a hole right through the inside of the tensioner and then replace with a coach bolt. You can't just put a bolt in the end.

Well at the moment I have the plunger (I think that is the name of it) which has the rubber end on it with metal cap, attached to the screw section that was all part of the original tensioner. Obviously the old spring is goosed so that isn't used. I then thought I could turn the screw section via the hole left after you remove the 8mm bolt at the end of the tensioner, this will then extend the plunger end to push against the chain guide and therefore make the chain tensioned. Once I have the chain at the right tension I then screw the new stainless bolt through the end were the 8mm bolt was until it is tight against the screw inside the body of the tensioner and lock off the bolt so that it can't undo.

My thought was that this would then stop the screw inside from moving and I couldn't push the plunger back down inside the tensioner using my hands, so I thought it would basically be a manual CCT. However I guess I could also tight the screwed section into the plunger and use the long stainless bold to push the whole assembly inside the body against the cam chain guide and then lock it off with the two nuts and spring washer. Result would be the same??

Screwing a bolt into the rear of the standard CCT will not work as you've described. For that to work the way you're thinking, you will need to grind a flat on the end of the bolt (a bit like a flat screwdriver blade) so that it fits into the slot in the end of the screw/worm inside the CCT. To fit such a bolt as I have described you need to extend the plunger fully. Then screw the bolt into the back of the CCT until it drops into the slot in the screw/worm. You should feel when that happens, once that has happened you can then retract the CCT plunger by turning the bolt.

I'm not sure how good this mod would be, as I have only known this done on CCT's where the spring is still good, but after saying that I've not heard of any failures from this mod,

Chris.

Ok I revised my CCT, this what I had done.
Removed all the old parts from the original CCT's, bought 130mm stainless M6 bolts. Put the plunger back in the CCT with the clip holding it in place and then use the M6 threaded bolt along with a dowty washer, stainless washer 2 x nuts and a spring washer between the nuts. Then used the bolt to push the plunger against the cam chain blade. Measured the slack according to a thread on here. Locked the bolt using one nut to squeeze the dowty washer and stainless washer against the CCT housing and then tightened the other washer sandwiching the spring washer at the same time against the other nut.

I can't see that this will allow the plunger to push back, and I think it would provide as good a job as a MCCT would with the added benefit of retaining the original Plunger and metal cap.