VTR1000.ORG

benny hedges wrote:

mik_str wrote: Ben, you need to get in touch with Dr Honda on the Superhawk forum and order a set of long billet stacks (exact copies of ones developed by HPower in Australia, who designed them on a flow bench). Trust me, you will not be disappointed!

thing is m8 with the cams im using and the light flywheel, the bike wants to live between 7k & the limiter (approx 10.5k) so it without a doubt performs (and feels) much better on the short ones.
ive tried the long pair together a few times, as well as the original one of each set up and it just doesnt compare.

the mori ones ive seen though are really short - much shorter than oem so there must be something in it - for a bike that revs high the shorter ones work better (imo)

for folk who want to bimble around in the mid rpm range then yes, the longer ones work better and you feel the advantage of the mid range torque with them, but personally i dont see the point in riding down there when the bike is making 100+ bhp higher up the rpm = much more exciting to ride than pootling around making 30-50hp

Not sure what specs your cams are but I am running Yoshimura Stage 1 cams (in ported heads) and a full Akrapovic (race) exhaust and the billet runners work very well across the board. What they do, essentialy, is give you a healthy boost in the mids without hurting top-end. Of course if your goal is strictly top-end, then you would most certainly be better served by shorter units (although, IMO, realistically you would be better served by many other bikes compared to the VTR if high revs are your thing; not trying to be a smartass when I say this, just stating the obvious.... )

cheers

fitted new rear mudguard now i'm stuck for ideas of what to do next, cant ride it today as babysitting the g/f's kids washed and polished it yesterday and got the tps down to 430 ohms with a lot of fettling just waiting for some parts to get here curtousy of Benny and Eclectic then i can get it finished, wish i knew how to work photoshop so i could get some new colour ideas.

FirestormMike wrote:Just wondering, but why is everyone setting their TPS to 430 ohms ? Standard is 510, but from what I gather the lower figure was on a tuned bike ?

if standard is 510 i'll put mine to that then haven't tried it on 430 yet so might pay me to set it to standard just in case i break something, and it gives me something to do cheers Mike

FirestormMike wrote:Just wondering, but why is everyone setting their TPS to 430 ohms ? Standard is 510, but from what I gather the lower figure was on a tuned bike ?

'cos we all trusted Benny's word without our own research! 'tis the ways of the interwebs.

He posted that a Dyno engineer found by trial and error that 430 gave a better throttle response. My bike is definetly better but whether it would be the same at 510? I dunno. But the front is alot more lifty!

The 430 figures comes from a (former?) member of the Superhawk forum (CTSmoto) who claims to have dyno tuned dozens of VTRs and found that 430-440 ohms was the "sweet spot".....

TBH in all the years of reading this forum this is the first time I've heard about re-setting the TPS. I can't find the original thread re how to do it i.e. where to attached the multimeter etc. Have to set idle mixture screws and rebalance soon so may have a look at mine.

mik_str wrote:The 430 figures comes from a (former?) member of the Superhawk forum (CTSmoto) who claims to have dyno tuned dozens of VTRs and found that 430-440 ohms was the "sweet spot".....

Now you got me wondering wether to strip mine and tinker, sooo close to a 220 mile each way trip to wales.... do i risk buggering it up or wait till i get back??? hmmmmm decisions decisions

Stratman wrote:TBH in all the years of reading this forum this is the first time I've heard about re-setting the TPS. I can't find the original thread re how to do it i.e. where to attached the multimeter etc. Have to set idle mixture screws and rebalance soon so may have a look at mine.

check back a page to p31 theres pics of meter attached

I doubt you could bugger it up mate. At best youll need a Security torx driver at worst drill the hole out and use a normal torx driver.

With the plug off the TPS attach your meter to the top and middle pin and take a reading of the ohms, then twist the TPS till you get a reading you want (510 at minumim) mine would only go to 517 iirc, so I wound the mountings out to get an extra twist. If you didnt go for the extra twist, Id be amazed if you messed it up, as theres nothing that can go wrong (theres always something, but you know what Im saying).

Here you go:
http://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/kn ... nsor-9876/

If I may, you gents (and ladies) really ought to have a look over at the Superhawk forum, especially the Knowledge Base section, there is a veritable wealth of good info there (just as there is on this site it must be said). AS for the 430 setting, you'll have to take my word for it, unless you want to do a long and detailed search (as I did) on the Superhawk forum to find it......

Remember, when it comesto VTRs, knowledge is power, lol

mik_str wrote:Here you go:
http://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/kn ... nsor-9876/

If I may, you gents (and ladies) really ought to have a look over at the Superhawk forum, especially the Knowledge Base section, there is a veritable wealth of good info there (just as there is on this site it must be said). AS for the 430 setting, you'll have to take my word for it, unless you want to do a long and detailed search (as I did) on the Superhawk forum to find it......

Remember, when it comesto VTRs, knowledge is power, lol

Hi Mik
so what is the best setting for a standard storm 500 +- 10 ohms or 430 ohms
cheers alec

Ummmm.... Might be the hangover talking here, but what is a TPS?

just reset mine again to 500 ohms getting good at it now only had to lift the tank lol,

Eclectic wrote: At best youll need a Security torx driver at worst drill the hole out and use a normal torx driver.

just give the security screws a smack on the side with a flat screwdriver and they will come loose, then either cut a slot in them to put them back or replace with some m5 bolts.
if you have cut the slots out you will need some washers as well, and as usual loctite the bolts so they dont come loose.

entirely up to you whether you try the 430 ohm setting or go with the 500 ohm recommended in the manual - either will be an improvement over the current setting if it is set at over 900 ohms like mine was!

mik, get what you're saying bud... horses for courses, i dont personally feel any benefit from running 2 long stacks but others obviously have.

anyway.... what have i done to my bike today.....
nothing apart from ride it home from oulton park, but yesterday i binned it lol.
1mph drop while turning round on some gravel outside the lodge entrance. put my foot down and it skidded on the loose surface & down it went, very embarassing and quite annoying seeing as i just got it nice!


scratched the right hand fairing & lower panel, broke the indicator lense, snapped the brake lever halfway, scuffed the can a bit, broke the footpeg off the rear sets and the rear brake lever.
and burst a can of caffreys in my bag


ive got a spare pair of same indicators, got a spare footpeg and the brake pedal just has a bolt through the middle, not that i use it much anyway...
i have some shorty levers on the way (i hope) but will have to touch up the damage to the paintwork
fortunately nothing got cracked and no tank dents.
what is even more annoying is i found some crash bungs in the garage the other day and was considering fitting them but didnt bother

never mind... i like fixing things

the project never ends you will always find/create things to do
at least it was a slow off and not much damage done