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Bloody good deal that!bigspanishmarty wrote:me and carl went for a little ride down into surrey this morning, i needed to pick up this little lot....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-Firesto ... true&rt=nc
we agreed on £40, i thought that was a bargain, as 2 mirrors are £30
it was a nice little ride and the weather held up, it was bloody windy tho.
lloydie wrote:cleaned and polished my new headers (thank you bsm) i then fitted them
now its ready for london
I wasn't following those instructions exactly tbh, I just don't think it's clear how bloody careful you need to be, I mean, starting from all the way in tight is one thing, but for a gorilla like me, I am quite capable of winding in and winding it till bits go 'ping'.AMCQ46 wrote:the instructions for the short cut are clearly too vauge and I would reccomend that you have to set the fully in position as tight, not just hand tight to make sure you have overcome any slack in the system and the chain is at full tension....then youu cant count turns out from this stable reference.
lucky escape and good that you have sorted it.
http://www.kriegercamchaintensioners.commattycoops43 wrote:I wasn't following those instructions exactly tbh, I just don't think it's clear how bloody careful you need to be, I mean, starting from all the way in tight is one thing, but for a gorilla like me, I am quite capable of winding in and winding it till bits go 'ping'.
Welcome to Krieger's Cam Chain Tensioners.
...finger tightening the cam chain tensioner to make sure all play is out, then back the thru bolt 1/8 turn and tighten lock nut. (static setting)
It came to my attention that there are individuals who either post instruction or have even put up Youtube videos giving misinformation about cam chain adjustment. It appears some will tell you to tighten the adjustment until the idle of the engine starts to drop. Others may say to tighten the adjustment until there is a squeal! What do these people think is happening mechanically when the engine is dragged down by excessive friction and even something causing a squeal? The cams run in the machined bearing surface of a rather expensive head. There is a film of a few thousandths of an inch between the cam journal and the head - about the thickness of a hair or two. Break that film and you have metal to metal contact.
Do you think it makes sense to tighten the cam drive until there is so much drag as to cause the engine to bog or squeal? Chains are meant to run with as little slack as possible, but NOT under any actual tension. (For some of you who played with bicycles you may have overtightened bicycle chains before, remember how they worked, then how much better they worked when slightly loose?) These well meaning people are making a serious error in performing adjustments in the fashions mentioned. If they don't cause immediate damage of some sort they will promote premature wear on components due to unnecessary tightness of the cam drive line, all rather costly to deal with..
The adjustment of a manual tensioner is simple and is printed here in directions that are on the page "About Tensioners". Take a look to see how to do it right. Don't risk ruining an engine with the mechanically poor adjustment techniques posted out there, no matter how well intentioned the posters may be. As I've mentioned before, from the mechanical point of view I'd rather run just a tiny bit loose than too tight. With the methods in our instructions, you will be very near ideal adjustment erring to the loose side if any and only by a few thousandths of an inch (one full turn of an M8-1.25 bolt is .050", so 1/8 turn is about .006", not enough chain play to cause any apprieciable wear and far less play than any failing OEM tensioner).
thanks al that reminds me i need to try the jacket on as ive had it 17 years and im a little larger nowAMCQ46 wrote:lloydie wrote:cleaned and polished my new headers (thank you bsm) i then fitted them
now its ready for london
just need to sort waterproof trousers if you only found a jacket..........I have some that you can borrow
Well done matty. You where lucky that jump was not any more than 3 teeth. That is right on the borderline, any more than that and there would have possibly been damage. And I agree doing things by feel is a gamble. why cut corners when it's so easy to just remove the covers.Re checked my timing today.......
there's little splatters of aluminium paint stuck to the bottom of the airbox and a little across the tops of the slides, the rest of it has been combusted. 
There's no signs of any cracking up from vibrations and the stacks have held up well apart from the paint. I think I need to find some sort of plastic or epoxy coating for them. Either that or just buy some billits I may even just stick with the standard long ones. The Dr copy stacks defiantly richened things up as soon as I put them on as I could smell it.
I might steal this excuse from you when I start commuting with the stormbigtwinthing wrote:simply rode it to work (instead of the van) and fook me, its 93 miles on the bike( 21 in the van) and you turn up late!!!, so i left early to check, and yep its still 93 miles!!!. I may do that again when iam pissed off, cause it makes you smile.
its a bugger using a full tank to get to work and the same on the way home .bigtwinthing wrote:simply rode it to work (instead of the van) and fook me, its 93 miles on the bike( 21 in the van) and you turn up late!!!, so i left early to check, and yep its still 93 miles!!!. I may do that again when iam pissed off, cause it makes you smile.
had to buy a hornet front end... They cost a ridiculous amount :/