VTR1000.ORG

Finally head is off . Hardest part were the rocker covers as they had been sealed with gasket sealant. Something to avoid next time. The head itself dropped away a peach no need for any hitting or prising. Now off to the engineers for the stud removal & 2 new 8mm time serts.

sirch345 wrote:

tony.mon wrote:

A certain helpful member on here made them up out of a bit of scrap Titanium. These ones fit nicely, his manufacturing is more accurate than my measuring
They are captive wheel spacers, you can just see the .5mm lip in the first pic, which slips into the seal and stays with the wheel, unlike the fiddly bloody standard ones that fall out as you try to get the wheel in place.

Now that is a very clever idea

Well done to a certain helpful member

Chris.

I saw these used on an Endurance bike a couple of years ago and thought I'd have a go. No point me posting the dimensions I used, as I'm running a USD 929/954 front end with an SP1 wheel- not a common combination.

Mark gl_s_r is your man for these, by the way.

No reason why a set can't be made for a standard Storm front end, SP1 or any combination of bits, really.
You'll need to accurately measure the entire width of the wheel spacers as fitted to the wheel, adding in the internal wheel spacer tube- and don't forget that there is a thin aluminium wall inside the wheel one side which also needs to be factored in.
Measure your spindle diameter and decide what diameter you want to run inside the seal- probably best to fit new seals when adding these, and you might as well do the wheel bearings while you're there, unless they're very recent.
And when you drive the seals in, don't drive them completely home. Leave a tiny gap for the lip of the spacer to sit in, otherwise the rear seal lip, if there is one, will wear quickly.

It was either this or flip-down hinged spindle clamps, and these seemed a whole lot easier!

Made some stainless steel hanger plates
Not great but functional .
Then I dug out my 05 radial front brake master cylinder and fitted it

So much easier to bleed with a bleed nipple at the top .
I started by filling the pot with fluid and only doing the top nipple they were done in 5 minutes :-)
The lever feels softer :-) so should give better feel on the road

looking good lloydie, you need to paint that m/c bracket black to match the rest, crack open the hammerite buddy

agentpineapple wrote:looking good lloydie, you need to paint that m/c bracket black to match the rest, crack open the hammerite buddy

no i need to strip the hammerrite off it the last owner painted it silver it was black

lloydie wrote:

agentpineapple wrote:looking good lloydie, you need to paint that m/c bracket black to match the rest, crack open the hammerite buddy

no i need to strip the hammerrite off it the last owner painted it silver it was black

There's some weird ferkers out there....
Did you think about doing those exhaust hanger adapters in c/f plate?

agentpineapple wrote: There's some weird ferkers out there....
Did you think about doing those exhaust hanger adapters in c/f plate?

No I'm not a tart but I will powder coat them next winter the same time and the hangers .
Come to think about it !! I don't have any carbon on the bike :-( .

I wait I do I have carbon engine covers

Ordered some shiney new c/f engine covers. Browsed eBay so more, will an after market digital dash be heading my way? Maybe in the future also ordered some new link pipes saturday evening and some exhaust packing.

Finally got around to re-packing my cans. Run out of packing though and there's not quite enough packed in so need to order some more. Git them back together with a few rivets to hold it all together and then went for a ride. The tone is so much more deeper sounds good, can't wait to get more packing in them.







(:-})

I hope you gave the cans a good clean at the same time
not to mention some fresh laquer on the akra exhaust brackets?

Carl iuse this 1 meter x 1 meter
http://bit.ly/1deFgaX sorry for the short link .
There's enough to do both cans .

I used the following http://www.silentsport.de/premium.php#p decide to use loose fill though as apparently it's supposed to be better as it gets into all the areas. It's also lot easier to pack.

Here's the link I found that made me decide on loose fill.
http://areapnolimits.com/products/Muffler-Packing.php

(:-})

tony.mon wrote: I saw these used on an Endurance bike a couple of years ago and thought I'd have a go. No point me posting the dimensions I used, as I'm running a USD 929/954 front end with an SP1 wheel- not a common combination.

Mark gl_s_r is your man for these, by the way.

No reason why a set can't be made for a standard Storm front end, SP1 or any combination of bits, really.
You'll need to accurately measure the entire width of the wheel spacers as fitted to the wheel, adding in the internal wheel spacer tube- and don't forget that there is a thin aluminium wall inside the wheel one side which also needs to be factored in.
Measure your spindle diameter and decide what diameter you want to run inside the seal- probably best to fit new seals when adding these, and you might as well do the wheel bearings while you're there, unless they're very recent.
And when you drive the seals in, don't drive them completely home. Leave a tiny gap for the lip of the spacer to sit in, otherwise the rear seal lip, if there is one, will wear quickly.

It was either this or flip-down hinged spindle clamps, and these seemed a whole lot easier!

Thanks Tony for your very detailed how-to, top man
I'd guessed it was Mark

Chris.

heres what happens when I have a spare hour and I'm not supervised