HELP, TROUBLE.

[seb421]

ive done some work on my storm over last week,
replaced CCT front n back
sparkplugs
adjusted front cam so its now aligned correcty
oil and oil filter
coolant

put it all back together today,

fired up okay, runs allright at tick over, well on choke at the moment. not had it warm enough to tickover.

but when bike revs increased to around 3,000 rpm it sounds like its struggleing and cuts out. also feels like once it gets to 3,000 rpm there is no power if you put more gas on.

im hopeing it may just be a crused fuel or air line?

any one any ideas, or could it be elictrical?

batt is dead at moment its on charge so will be back at it later

im hoping ive not done anything rong or missed anything out i dont think i have as i had no screws left over lol.

but yeh anyone had trouble like that after working on bike?

thanks

[Stratman]

Check you have turned the petcock back on and also attached the vacuum pipe to the SIDE pipe not the one at the bottom. If you still have a problem post back

[Beamish]

Does sound like a vaccuum pipe on wrong mate. Double check the tank pipe arrangement and let us know.

[seb421]

vaccum pipe, im not sure which one that goes to, is this from the tank i took it off but forgot where it went so think i stuck it on the left side of the bikes tank nipple thing.

[Jim67]

Alright guys,
I am at this stage at the moment as I am replacing my cct's with ape's, so its fresh in my mind still lol !!!
OK you have the left and right tap lines on, there is also a large diameter breather to attach under the tank, (thats the large pipes out of the way) this leaves two small diameter pipes to fit, one runs along the left hand side of the frame to the carb and one runs down to the bottom of the bike. The one that runs to the carbs needs to go on the nipple at the back of the tap, the other needs pushing back on to the breather pipe on the under side of the tank.
Hope this helps.

It helps if you label them up with masking tape next time lol

ps make sure you switch the tap back to on or you aint going no where !!!!

Cheers,
Jim.

[tony.mon]

There are five pipes which need connecting.

The two fatter ones (two the same size) both go on the sides of the fuel tap. They've got spring clips to hold them on, so you'll see the grooves left by the clips in the rubber.

The thin one that turns into a fatter bit of pipe after a few inches and the remaining fat one go to the two metal stubs that poke out of the bottom of the tank- one's a breather letting air back in the tank and one's a drain from the filler cap neck.

The last remaining thin one (leading towards the engine) goes onto the back of the fuel tap, at the 9 o'clock position if you're looking under the tank from the saddle end. This pipe (which stays the same for its whole length) is the vacuum pipe.

You can tell which thin one it is as it's NOT the one which starts thin but turns into a thicker bit of pipe after a few inches.

It's easy to think that this goes onto the fuel tap assembly at the SIX O'CLOCK POSITION- it doesn't, but there's a little stub which looks like that's where it goes. This is, as far as I know, the air in/outlet for the vacuum tap bellows, and nothing goes on there.

Hope this helps....

[seb421]

ive spoken to fitz on phone, explained to him what its doing.

since my last post ive fired it up again and it warmed up okay ad revved out fine too.

i went for a ride after a mile or so got trouble, felt like the bike was fighting against me and firing on one cylinder was very hard to ride back home.

im thinking now it could either be that the carbs need syncing up correctly, or that there is a fuel line that has some pressure on it under the tank

at low rpm when the carb is full its okay.

problems happen when the revs increased and i think it may be drinking the fuel from one carb quicker than it is filling it up, crating the struggling on off cylinder.

all my pipes have been put back where they should have been, but i will take tank off and see if a furl line is being crimped by something restricting the flow.

another possibility is the coil.

has any one replaced a coil on the firestorm, if so how much are they?

any one had similar trouble to this?

i dont think its the timing as it turns over okay.

im going to ring a mobile mechanic ive been given the number for but this was my last resort as i cant afford any bills to be honest hence me trying everything my self.

thanks for any help in advance

[Jim67]

Was it running ok before you did any of the work????

Jim.

[sirch345]

Seb,

(1) Did you fit standard new CCT's or fixed type

(2) Did you remove the TPS (throttle position sensor) for some reason and forgot to reconnect it

(3) When you re-aligned the timing marks on the front cylinder did you just move the cam wheels one or two teeth, or re-set the valve timing completely

Also have a look at the connection from the HT lead to the spark plug cap. They've been known to cause problems before (they just un-screw) The fix is just cut 10mm or so off (just enough so they look good again) the HT lead and and re-fit to the plug cap.

Chris.

[warby221]

PM sent seb

[Pete.L]

Or the timing could be correct but 180 degrees out.
...Just a thought
Pete.l

[Jim67]

Or the timing could be correct but 180 degrees out.
...Just a thought
Pete.l

That was my first thought????

Jim.

[Beamish]

Doesnt sound like a tooth out as mine ran for seconds before backfiring and stopping! Could well be 180 out though.

[tony.mon]

If it runs fine for a few minutes, revving out to over 7000- 8000 then your timing isn't likely to be 180 degrees out. You can't get it to pull more than 5000 under load when this is the case.

Just a thought, but is the tank breather blocked or trapped somewhere?
That might stop petrol flowing out of the tank after a while as the vacuum would build up in the tank.

Bit of a long shot, but worth blowing up the tank breather to make sure it's clear.

[Collywog19]

I kinda had this problem, and turned out it was my front coil shagged.

New ( second hand ) one fitted and its been fine since.

Col