there are a few posts floating about now all on different tangents so thought i would start a fresh one to try and get an accurate answer..
currently have the holts fire gum on link pipes,, and although its god dam amazing product have been informed it eventually breaks away due to vibrations due to been so brittle..
i found this little puppy and wondered if it might do the job..
http://www.fluesystems.com/sundries/info/flexseal.htm
i do already have loctite premium black silicone for gaskets but only stands up to 200 degrees.
that flexseal stands up to 300 degrees.
what sort of temps we talking at the link pipe join areas?
will this do the job?
Re: will this do the job?
It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others.
VTR Firestorm and other bikes t-shirts
VTR Firestorm and other bikes t-shirtsRe: will this do the job?
nice find i did a bit of searching for similar but no joy..Wicky wrote:http://forums.atvconnection.com/polaris ... ature.html
You'll need to convert temperaturea
350 F = 176 C
but the air temp was 2 c
so on a hot day its gonna be pushing the 200c mark.. ( just guessing as physics n stuff wasnt my strong point at school, as it was usually nap time for me around then )
Re: will this do the job?
Chuxsta,
This looks like what Tattie recommended in one of the other threads on this subject:-
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RED-RTV-CAR-BOAT- ... 286.c0.m14
Chris.
This looks like what Tattie recommended in one of the other threads on this subject:-
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RED-RTV-CAR-BOAT- ... 286.c0.m14
Chris.
Re: will this do the job?
sweet thanks..sirch345 wrote:Chuxsta,
This looks like what Tattie recommended in one of the other threads on this subject:-
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RED-RTV-CAR-BOAT- ... 286.c0.m14
Chris.
i had seen similar when searching for high temp sealant... but wasnt sure what temps we were talking about..
only thing im concerend about when using a silicone based one is getting every area sealed up.. cause if i miss a spot means starting all over again, depending on where the leak is of course..
any suggestions on pre packing with something to help wad out the larger gaps thus making it easier to seal every where.
Re: will this do the job?
The RTV silicone I had, was purchased from Brown Brothers an automotive paint and sundries supplier. I think they have depots all over the country.
I always applied it to both the male and female sides of the joints and wiped off the excess when tightned up.
Cheers
A.M.
I always applied it to both the male and female sides of the joints and wiped off the excess when tightned up.
Cheers
A.M.
Common sense ain't all that common!
Re: will this do the job?
the RTV silicone arrived today..instructions are straight forward enough but any tips other than what you mentioned for getting the best out of this?tattie wrote:The RTV silicone I had, was purchased from Brown Brothers an automotive paint and sundries supplier. I think they have depots all over the country.
I always applied it to both the male and female sides of the joints and wiped off the excess when tightned up.
Cheers
A.M.
my concern is that this will not expand to fill gaps like the holts stuff... and if i miss any gaps and it blows out of some where i will have to do it all again..
Re: will this do the job?
The idea Chuxsta is to apply enough silicone to the joint (both parts as Tattie says) after cleaning the area first, so that when you tighten up the clamp it squeezes out through the orifices of the joint. Then wipe of the excess off before it dries.chuxsta wrote:the RTV silicone arrived today..instructions are straight forward enough but any tips other than what you mentioned for getting the best out of this?tattie wrote:The RTV silicone I had, was purchased from Brown Brothers an automotive paint and sundries supplier. I think they have depots all over the country.
I always applied it to both the male and female sides of the joints and wiped off the excess when tightned up.
Cheers
A.M.
my concern is that this will not expand to fill gaps like the holts stuff... and if i miss any gaps and it blows out of some where i will have to do it all again..
I found I needed to use an exhaust pipe clamp that is usually used on a car exhaust for the left-hand side so I could get a tighter grip on that joint. The right hand side didn't need so much pressure so the standard type clamp was sufficient.
HTH,
Chris.
PS. I picked up a tube of this RTV silicone locally yesterday, so will be doing mine soon too (link pipe joints). I had used the same one that you used first Holts Fire Gum, but although I can't seem to feel it leaking it's started to pop and bang on the over run again.
Re: will this do the job?
its lasted rather well.. and maybe with some practice and other packing it might be possible to use this holts stuff..sirch345 wrote:PS. I picked up a tube of this RTV silicone locally yesterday, so will be doing mine soon too (link pipe joints). I had used the same one that you used first Holts Fire Gum, but although I can't seem to feel it leaking it's started to pop and bang again on the over run again.
but i can feel the blowing from the joints and its getting worse as it crumbles away...
shame cause this is genius stuff..
Re: will this do the job?
well the RTV silicone is in place its all tightened up, just got to wait for it to set and find out if its filled all the gaps....
i bloody hope so it took long enough....
i bloody hope so it took long enough....
Re: will this do the job?
It may be that your whole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others.
VTR Firestorm and other bikes t-shirts
VTR Firestorm and other bikes t-shirtsRe: will this do the job?
so far so good...
the right link has had 48 hours to set the left link 24hours to set..
fired her up and its not blowing from either joints.....
for the ones that have used this RTV silicone did yours change colour as the heat increased?
left it idling for about 10mins and a bit of smoke came from the areas sealed. to be expected i know..
the silicone is changing colour from bright red to a orangey red....
is that cause the silicone had not cured fully or is it just a normal reaction to the heat?
the right link has had 48 hours to set the left link 24hours to set..
fired her up and its not blowing from either joints.....
for the ones that have used this RTV silicone did yours change colour as the heat increased?
left it idling for about 10mins and a bit of smoke came from the areas sealed. to be expected i know..
the silicone is changing colour from bright red to a orangey red....
is that cause the silicone had not cured fully or is it just a normal reaction to the heat?
Re: will this do the job?
Aren't we getting into this a bit deep?
If you use it and it works, fine.
If it doesn't, try something else.
The standard gaskets are too bloody expensive, but are reusable with care for a few times, IMHO.
Otherwise, a bit of a pop on the over run isn't the end of the world, s it frightens cars too close to your cans.
Mine leaks a bit sometimes, seems to seal ok others.
I'm not that fussed, TBH.
Just my two pennorth, if you want to keep trying different solutions, fine. If you find something that works fine every time, pls let us know.
For me, though, just ride the bloody thing. Sometimes it works better than others. That's part of the fun, isn't it?
If you use it and it works, fine.
If it doesn't, try something else.
The standard gaskets are too bloody expensive, but are reusable with care for a few times, IMHO.
Otherwise, a bit of a pop on the over run isn't the end of the world, s it frightens cars too close to your cans.
Mine leaks a bit sometimes, seems to seal ok others.
I'm not that fussed, TBH.
Just my two pennorth, if you want to keep trying different solutions, fine. If you find something that works fine every time, pls let us know.
For me, though, just ride the bloody thing. Sometimes it works better than others. That's part of the fun, isn't it?
It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity.
Re: will this do the job?
tony.mon wrote:Aren't we getting into this a bit deep?
If you use it and it works, fine.
If it doesn't, try something else.
The standard gaskets are too bloody expensive, but are reusable with care for a few times, IMHO.
Otherwise, a bit of a pop on the over run isn't the end of the world, s it frightens cars too close to your cans.
Mine leaks a bit sometimes, seems to seal ok others.
I'm not that fussed, TBH.
Just my two pennorth, if you want to keep trying different solutions, fine. If you find something that works fine every time, pls let us know.
For me, though, just ride the bloody thing. Sometimes it works better than others. That's part of the fun, isn't it?
time of the month?
standard gaskets dont fit! couldnt find custom ones to do the job.!
yes the RTV appears to do the job... but i was asking for advice off some that has used it. cause after spending nearly 3 hours per link pipe
sealing it up i didnt want to waste the time and effort taking it out for a thrash only to blow out the un-cured silicone and waste the time and effort in doing some thing correctly!!!
if your think this has gone on a bit why bother moaning about it...
but thanks for your input!
Re: will this do the job?
okey dokey pig in a pokey..
i have complied 2 updates to keep every one happy
update 1 for tony.mong
its great works well blah blah blah.. its red.. its cheap... easy to use dont get it on your chinos.
update 2 for any one else that is interested..
it appears to have done its job.. still yet to test on a long thrash.. or even a semi long thrash.. not had time or weather to do so..
typical considering the weather thurs fri and saturday last week...
when i took it out for a small 1mile ride to get some heat in the joints some of the silicone had not cured properly and started bubbling up..
the instructions say 24hours to cure fully but i think that refers to small thin applications.. not larger filled areas..
i think 24 hours left to set then let it idle for a good 10-20mins as it appears that some moderate heat helped the curing process from the inside out..but i could be talking gonads there cause i never was any good at the science stuff in skool.
i was very heavy handed in applying it due to it not expanding to fill nooks n crannies like the holts stuff..
applying to both surfaces to be joined and then a bit extra once joined around the external cracks ( FNAAAAR FNAAAR)
let settle for a while then cleaned up with a wet finger over the cracks (F'Naaaar F'nAAAAAR )
i have complied 2 updates to keep every one happy
update 1 for tony.mong
its great works well blah blah blah.. its red.. its cheap... easy to use dont get it on your chinos.
update 2 for any one else that is interested..
it appears to have done its job.. still yet to test on a long thrash.. or even a semi long thrash.. not had time or weather to do so..
typical considering the weather thurs fri and saturday last week...
when i took it out for a small 1mile ride to get some heat in the joints some of the silicone had not cured properly and started bubbling up..
the instructions say 24hours to cure fully but i think that refers to small thin applications.. not larger filled areas..
i think 24 hours left to set then let it idle for a good 10-20mins as it appears that some moderate heat helped the curing process from the inside out..but i could be talking gonads there cause i never was any good at the science stuff in skool.
i was very heavy handed in applying it due to it not expanding to fill nooks n crannies like the holts stuff..
applying to both surfaces to be joined and then a bit extra once joined around the external cracks ( FNAAAAR FNAAAR)
let settle for a while then cleaned up with a wet finger over the cracks (F'Naaaar F'nAAAAAR )